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Probably a stupid question but here goes anyway.
I have just got done the rebuild of my 1973 350 and want to break in the cam with the engine on my homebuilt test stand.
I have all the wiring done and just about ready to fire it up but not sure what would be the best way to cool it. The radiator is out for repair so that's not an option.
Is there a way to hook a garden hose up somehow and just let water run through it? I do this with my boat engine all the time.
Connect a 3/4" garden hose to the inlet side of the water pump and let her rip. But why do you want to run it in that way? Without mufflers it'll really irritate your neighbors and if it's for an automatic transmission it'll run awful with just a flex plate attached.
I wouldn't do it, you've invested a fair amount of money in that engine, getting in a hurry now could cost you the whole thing. Best to wait for the radiator.
Its got mufflers and a flywheel, its a 4 speed. Just want to run long enough to break in the cam and check for any leaks or problems before putting back in car.
Originally Posted by Mountainoakie
Connect a 3/4" garden hose to the inlet side of the water pump and let her rip. But why do you want to run it in that way? Without mufflers it'll really irritate your neighbors and if it's for an automatic transmission it'll run awful with just a flex plate attached.
Its got mufflers and a flywheel, its a 4 speed. Just want to run long enough to break in the cam and check for any leaks or problems before putting back in car.
"Long enough to break in the cam" is at least 20 minutes. I wouldn't run it for that long without letting it get up to temperature. Running cold water through it isn't the same as a proper cooling system. Even if you were to get an old radiator from the scrap yard I think it would be better.
Guess I'll just wait for the radiator to return. Don't want to put everything back in the car and find out I have an oil leak and have to pull it back out.
A friend of mine did the same thing, he used a radiator. Just wanted to know if it was possible to break in the cam and check for any issues without one. I have a boat with a 4.3 in it and it gets run on a garden hose occasionally.
Guess I'll just wait for the radiator to return. Don't want to put everything back in the car and find out I have an oil leak and have to pull it back out.
A friend of mine did the same thing, he used a radiator. Just wanted to know if it was possible to break in the cam and check for any issues without one. I have a boat with a 4.3 in it and it gets run on a garden hose occasionally.
Thanks.......
Your thermostat will maintain operating temp. Use a 180. Engine dynos just us a big tank or a garden water hose with the hot water running out on the ground
Your thermostat will maintain operating temp. Use a 180. Engine dynos just us a big tank or a garden water hose with the hot water running out on the ground
I'm presuming the OP would have the thermostat removed. I would rather have too much cooling than not enough, 20 minutes to break in the cam would not be a significant amount of time to have it running "cool". When I had my engine broke in on a dyno there was no thermostat, just a big tank of water hooked up to the engine coolant hoses. For that matter, do boat engines have any ability to get up to operating temps via a thermostat?
Put a temp gauge on it try the hose deal out if you think its feasible
I really dont think you need exactly 20 min of run time personally but what do I know. Ive run them maybe 10 min or so stuck it in gear and went;doubt the factory ever did
Either the lifter will spin or it wont way I see it. Having it on a stand to check for leaks is a definite advantage
I took a piece of pvc pipe and a couple elbows, fill everything with water and run it till it's warm then shut down. Run it a couple times to look for leaks.I do it in the frame with trans all hooked up. When I feel comfortable then I do the body drop.
Ran the engine today. Got a radiator hooked up and all seems well. Very small oil leak between front cover and oil pan. Guess I'll see what it will take to fix it. Its a VERY small leak.
Only other issue, seems the distributor might need some attention. Surges at idle unless the vacuum advance is disconnected.