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So I got the 68 I bought this winter out for the first time this weekend and took my daughter for a ride. We stopped for gas and as she was getting in the car the door handle came off in her hand just another gift from the PO who superglued it on. So the handle is in perfect shape except it does not have the stud in the bottom. IS there any reason I can't take threaded rod and epoxy it in the socket? Can anyone tell me the length of the stud? If I do have to buy an aftermarket one are some better than others? Thanks Mark
There is no reason you can't put a stud in the old handle.. it's about 3/4" long (I can measure one tomorrow to be sure). If you take the door panel off you'll probably find the old stud laying inside the bottom of the door.
There is no reason you can't put a stud in the old handle.. it's about 3/4" long (I can measure one tomorrow to be sure). If you take the door panel off you'll probably find the old stud laying inside the bottom of the door.
Thanks for the reply. AND I also want to thank you in advance as the next project is the wipers. They didn't work at all and the door was closed. I had the dash out to repair some tack issues and the clock and noticed that the gauge bezel was broken i.e. no ground to the switch so I ran a separate ground to the switch. When I tried the wipers the door opened but no wipers and now the door will not close. I've printed your troubleshooting instructions and will start from there and if I need parts to repair it I will be sure to buy from you. I am VERY grateful for the work you have done with the written instructions and videos.
Well I guessed it right on the button... 3/4" from the bottom of the housing where the stud screws in, to the end of the stud.
You're most welcome for the help.
Check the small hose running to the wiper door relay. If no vacuum is present on this hose then the door will stay open. Next check to make sure the vacuum over-ride is not pulled because that'll hold it open too... And before you dig go deep on the wiper motor make sure the wiper motor over ride switch under the column isn't turned off.
Well I guessed it right on the button... 3/4" from the bottom of the housing where the stud screws in, to the end of the stud.
You're most welcome for the help.
Check the small hose running to the wiper door relay. If no vacuum is present on this hose then the door will stay open. Next check to make sure the vacuum over-ride is not pulled because that'll hold it open too... And before you dig go deep on the wiper motor make sure the wiper motor over ride switch under the column isn't turned off.
Willcox
Well I got the door handle repaired with no problem but haven't compleatly figured out the wipers yet. This is what I've figured out so far on the vacuum side. The door will open with the override but doesn't close but try's to move and if I move the back of the actuator it will close slowly so I guessing there is a vacuum leak and I need a new one. On the wiper side still nothing. I've tested the switch and relay and they are good. I'll test the solinoid next. The override switch looks a little worse for wear but I don't know how to test it so may just order a new one as well.
Well I got the door handle repaired with no problem but haven't compleatly figured out the wipers yet. This is what I've figured out so far on the vacuum side. The door will open with the override but doesn't close but try's to move and if I move the back of the actuator it will close slowly so I guessing there is a vacuum leak and I need a new one. On the wiper side still nothing. I've tested the switch and relay and they are good. I'll test the solinoid next. The override switch looks a little worse for wear but I don't know how to test it so may just order a new one as well.
Wilcox has a great video on checking the motor and the system operation .The guy that designed this system is locked up in the NUT house .I found on mine that the rod on the vacuum can was not adjusted correctly .
good Luck
Wes
Well I got the door handle repaired with no problem but haven't compleatly figured out the wipers yet. This is what I've figured out so far on the vacuum side. The door will open with the override but doesn't close but try's to move and if I move the back of the actuator it will close slowly so I guessing there is a vacuum leak and I need a new one. On the wiper side still nothing. I've tested the switch and relay and they are good. I'll test the solinoid next. The override switch looks a little worse for wear but I don't know how to test it so may just order a new one as well.
It sounds like you have multiple issues.
To test the actuator use this picture... it's simple and I suspect part of your door issue.
To test the tach solenoid use this picture... it's simple too, getting to it is a bear... but keep in mind that it's hot waiting from ground from the headlamp switch. Also make sure you wiper switch is grounded. If the small gauge bezel is damaged and the wiper switch plate section is not connected then you'll probably need to run a ground from the switch to the lower section.
To test the motor.. use the videos below... and there are some good links I've posted in here for you.
Wiper Motor Bench Test 68 Ver 1
Wiper Motor Bench Test 68 Ver 2 "Follow up"
Great threads on 68 Wiper motors can be found here:
To test the actuator use this picture... it's simple and I suspect part of your door issue.
To test the tach solenoid use this picture... it's simple too, getting to it is a bear... but keep in mind that it's hot waiting from ground from the headlamp switch. Also make sure you wiper switch is grounded. If the small gauge bezel is damaged and the wiper switch plate section is not connected then you'll probably need to run a ground from the switch to the lower section.
To test the motor.. use the videos below... and there are some good links I've posted in here for you.
Wiper Motor Bench Test 68 Ver 1
Wiper Motor Bench Test 68 Ver 2 "Follow up"
Great threads on 68 Wiper motors can be found here:
Willcox Testing a 68-76 Corvette Wiper Motor Switch
Here is the how to repair your wiper relay if this is the problem.
And lastly... the correct wiper motor schematic for 68
Thanks for all the info Ernie. A couple of questions. In discussing the tach solinoid you say it's hot but waiting on ground from the headlight switch. Did you mean wiper switch? I've tested the solinoid outside the car and it works but I'm a little confused if the brown wire that carries 12 volts is only hot when the wiper motor is running then how does the wiper motor run if the solinoid doesn't open the wiper door and press the button on the limit switch. I guess it's chicken or egg discussion but I don't get it. I've also tested the wiper switch (and ran a separate ground) and the relay and both work. Next I thought I could use my volt meter to test the solinoid connection by turning the wiper switch on and place the positive probe in the brown wire connector and the ground probe in the black connector but I got no reading.
Typo.. My fault.. it's waiting for ground from the wiper switch. I had 69 and later on my mind and had to edit 1/2 my post because originally I posted all 69-72 stuff.
Do this.. just as a quick test.. run a jumper ground from the bracket the over-ride switch mounts on.... then test again.
Typo.. My fault.. it's waiting for ground from the wiper switch. I had 69 and later on my mind and had to edit 1/2 my post because originally I posted all 69-72 stuff.
Do this.. just as a quick test.. run a jumper ground from the bracket the over-ride switch mounts on.... then test again.
Willcox
I ran a jumper ground from the battery post and still nothing so I'm not getting power to the brown wire. I'll get under the hood this weekend. It has a HEI distributor and it looks like the wiring may not be stock so I will have to figure it out. I did see a sticker on the motor that said it was rebuilt so I'm not even sure it's a 68 motor. My dad always told me that if you don't like working on them don't buy an old car