Brake System Upgrade - Thoughts?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 128
From: Pflugerville TX
Brake System Upgrade - Thoughts?
Guys,
I recently picked up a 71 that has already had a lot of good work done to it but is still running the original brake system. The front brakes don't seem to work, the dist block seems to be leaking, the switch cap basically falls off the block. Anyway, I decided to do an upgrade including new master cylinder, disti block/switch cap & wire, wilwood alminum caliper upgrade front/rear with braided stainless hoses. I went ahead and purchased a motive pressure bleeder system to make bleeding a little easier and one man. I've decided to run the current rotors since they don't look too bad and I don't want to drill out the rivets.
Any advice or gotchas that you guys can give me a warning about?
BTW, while i've done brake caliper, pad, rotor swaps, I've never changed out the master cylinder before. Not sure what to expect there.
Any advice appreciated.
I recently picked up a 71 that has already had a lot of good work done to it but is still running the original brake system. The front brakes don't seem to work, the dist block seems to be leaking, the switch cap basically falls off the block. Anyway, I decided to do an upgrade including new master cylinder, disti block/switch cap & wire, wilwood alminum caliper upgrade front/rear with braided stainless hoses. I went ahead and purchased a motive pressure bleeder system to make bleeding a little easier and one man. I've decided to run the current rotors since they don't look too bad and I don't want to drill out the rivets.
Any advice or gotchas that you guys can give me a warning about?
BTW, while i've done brake caliper, pad, rotor swaps, I've never changed out the master cylinder before. Not sure what to expect there.
Any advice appreciated.
Last edited by SLBelt; Apr 22, 2016 at 04:49 PM. Reason: typo
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,814
Likes: 105
From: Dearborn Heights Michigan
I upgraded my 70 with Wilwood 6 piston front & 4 piston rears, also new slotted discs. Autocross recommended pads.
Wilwood master cyl., be sure to bench bleed it.
Stainless brake lines.
Only problem could not get a good bleed with a Motive & ended up taking it to local shop.
Very happy with the set up.
Bought a Summit bleeder that works off an air compressor. Terrific unit that I used on my C7.
Wilwood master cyl., be sure to bench bleed it.
Stainless brake lines.
Only problem could not get a good bleed with a Motive & ended up taking it to local shop.
Very happy with the set up.
Bought a Summit bleeder that works off an air compressor. Terrific unit that I used on my C7.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
My Wilwood D8-4 calipers required gravity bleeding overnight. After that and a quick hit with the motive and they were solid. Night and day difference after switching to Wilwood.
Tip: When you are done make sure you bed the pads to the rotors if you want max performance. Do some normal driving for 6-10 miles to warm the rotors up to temp. Then do 10 agressive brakes from 60 - 10 mph with no break in between. Go from 10 right back up to 60 and back down to 10 until you have completed 10 repetitions. They will smoke and you will smell them but that just means you are doing it right. When you are done you need 5-8 min of driving with no stops and no brake use to cool them down. Once complete go back to normal driving the brakes will be bedded and firm. If the rotors are not clean of pad material with a bluish hint to them give it a day and do it again. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE SWAP.
Tip: When you are done make sure you bed the pads to the rotors if you want max performance. Do some normal driving for 6-10 miles to warm the rotors up to temp. Then do 10 agressive brakes from 60 - 10 mph with no break in between. Go from 10 right back up to 60 and back down to 10 until you have completed 10 repetitions. They will smoke and you will smell them but that just means you are doing it right. When you are done you need 5-8 min of driving with no stops and no brake use to cool them down. Once complete go back to normal driving the brakes will be bedded and firm. If the rotors are not clean of pad material with a bluish hint to them give it a day and do it again. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE SWAP.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,199
Likes: 119
From: tempe Arizona
As mentioned elsewhere it is necessary to remove the rear caliper from the bolts and bleed it in the vertical manner to purge it fully then refit it to the knuckle. If you failed to do so that would be a significant air in system issue.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,802
Likes: 241
From: Niles, MI
I also had to shim the rear calipers to center over the rotor and keep the mounting bolts from bottoming out on the rotors.
You can see on this pic why the caliper needs to be removed for bleeding. The bleeder screw is located too low to allow the air to escape.
Both of these issues would be easy for Wilwood to fix but I guess they don't care.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,802
Likes: 241
From: Niles, MI
