So over the past 4-5 years I have been battling rear end breakage over and over. I have been trying to decide on the Super 10, 12 bolt conversion or going solid. Ive had several conversations with Tracdog (Mike) who was extremely helpful...thank you very much for the help Mike!

Anyway after talking with Mike it sounded like I would still have to be careful on the launches with the super 10.....the money involved for the 12 bolt is just nuts so I decided to go to a solid axle. I was going to build a rear from a junk yard unit and buy a kit from AutoFab. Well after calling and really looking at everything I decided to go with a complete axle from new.

I ordered a 4 link kit from Autofab and had Tommy order a Moser 12 bolt direct from Moser. I know in his kits he typically goes Ford 9" but I wanted a 12 bolt in the car plus the additional drag from a 9" is noticeable and visible on the dyno so I went with the 12bolt. I had Tommy put 9" ford axle ends on it and I went with 33 spline axles and an Eaton Trutrac.

I've got a good bit of progress made and I am getting closer to wrapping it up. I will post up some pics. While I have been looking at this I have read every freaking solid axle post I could find and I made my decision. This entire process is still gonna be a little cheaper than the Super 10 setup but barely. However it will support what I am gonna throw at it where the Super 10 would fall short.

I have also ordered 4 new rotors and the Wilwood D8's at all four corners. This was done for weight savings. Very excited to get it finished up! anyone thinking of doing this swap feel free to PM me. Another member on here has helped me with this as well and its a lot of help!

 

a few in progress shots

 

Here is where I am right now, I need to get the tracbar in to make sure my tires clear at full travel. However AutoFab sent me 2 right hand thread hiem joints which I need one left hand thread so I can install it until I get a new joint. Once I verify clearance I will get everything welded up and run my brake lines.

 

Looks like a "solid" build. The only thing I might do different is to replace the QA1s with a quality shock.

 

 

I just did this to my 1980 !

 

You guys aren't going to have to worry about stuff back there now! Nice work...

JIM

 

On the brakes I used the stainless lines we all use and mounted the calipers on the forward side of the rotor and was done , never took em off to bleed them and never moved a break line at all . Plug and play was how it ended up for me

 

Dang, looks like the car was made that way with that straight axle in it.

 

Thats what I am hoping Jim!

Really this will just find the next weakest link in my car which I believ will be the trans. Its freshly rebuilt but I dont think its gonna hold up

 

BOTH cars look "Factory"!

 

You make a valid often overlooked point the 12 bolt does indeed rob less power than the 9 inch. The only good reason for a 9 inch is it is easier to swap out the pumpkin for a variety of reasons.
Nice looking job.that should serve you well. I actually know the first guys that put a 12 bolt set up in a corvette IRS center and did a couple myself, I'm not sure I would trust myself to dive right in to one of those again.

 

I looked at both a Ford 9" and the 12 bolt a lot before making the decision. I wanted a 12 bolt just to have a chevy rear in my vette but really after talking to a buddy of mine that builds race cars I didn't think the 9" offered anything more for my use. This is a street strip and at my current power level and even the power level I plan to go to the 12 bolt should hold up all day long.

 

I know this was awhile back. Do you know what the width of your 12 bolt was flange to flange?

 

A close guess on my fab 9 is 42" .

Edited , I went off memory from 3 yrs ago, not 42 , 52

As far as weight goes, When taken as a whole including trailing arms brakes etc . This set up is lighter by a small amount. After I did my entire car including using a 4L80e I went from 3250 to 2976 , 88 lbs of that was brakes , the rest was . The t-top conversion to a targa top, flip up head lights deleted , aluminum rad and heads, also emissions and a/c delete .

 

Did you narrow the frame rails?

 

No doubt, OP Amelio's solid axle is strong and looks good as as well.
JMO ... if it were my C3 solid axle project ... I'd have gone with Cup style "Truck Arms" and a 9" w/ floater axles because of the many options in gear & diff suppliers/treatments. Wide-Fives as well.

 

Looks great! Any chance you could get the weights of the IRS and the solid for a comparison? Thnx]