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Hi everyone. Im member for forum for several years .
I need my project process recommendations.
I’m motorcycle mechanic . But not expert for corvette .
i have 1969 L68 4speed convertible all matching number car.
My baby got flat cam lobe trouble right now .
I am thinking remove motor from chassis, then replace cam , lifters etc ...
My tranny seems ok , what is faster way pull out motor from chassis?
Ken;
1.You can pull the radiator and hood and change the cam with the engine in the car.
2. You can pull the engine and leave the tranny.
3.Depends on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go.
If it were me, I'd pull the motor and freshen everything. You can replace the cam/lifters and next year the rings start smoking. By doing everything you know its done and don't have to worry about it. Then you can spend your time and money on other things, like suspension, interior, weatherstripping.............. It never ends
You are suppose to drop the oil pan a smidge to remove the timing cover. Trouble is, there is no such thing as a smidge. All the oil pan bolts must be loosened then pry the snot out of the pan to get it to drop. Meanwhile, you have broken the seal between pan & block anyway. And the idler arm has to be dropped to get the pan off.
There are ways to remove & reseal the timing cover and never touch the pan. I have done it, but not proud of it.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 24, 2020 at 07:07 PM.
coin toss. Best to drop or partially drop pan.
Get yourself a one-piece oil pan gasket ... Fel-Pro OS 30061T is correct for 69 Big Block & OE pan ... comes w/ handy "snap-ups" for easier install.
In chevy sbc/BBC talk:
It's a timing chain
It's a timing cover
BBC are hard on cam lobes with flat tappet cams, regardless if hydraulic or solid do yourself a favor and use a modern PR0 55 cam core. We did not have this good stuff to work with back in the 60s and 70s. Lot more work but were me pull the whole engine apart clean it up inspect everything. Could be other stuff on it's way to failure just has not happened yet.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Feb 25, 2020 at 01:05 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Use break in oil to break in the new cam and make sure you use a high Zinc and phophate oil to keep you r new cam alive, just buying oil at the 7/11 will kill the cam again. Lots of posts on oil here, I use Mobil1 20w50. Its made for old flat tappets and its really cheap at Walmart. I buy it buy the gallon and fill old quart bottles to keep the motor topped of.
I pulled the timing chain cover and had to replace the entire pan gasket, I use the felpro single piece and Ultra black to keep it sealed. You can do everything with the motor in if you have a small lift or can get the entire car up on stands, which I dont like to do. I have a quickjack and I use it for everything, its worth the $1200 buck investment.
Fel-Pro OS 30061T is one-piece and correct for 69 Big Block & OE pan ... comes w/ handy "snap-ups" for easier install when under car.
Ensure pan's rails are flat & true ... a half-hour under good lighting w/ a ball pein hammer and a wood block can do it.
Everything must be clean & dry. Not a trace of old gasket/sealer.
Best to closely follow factory instructions for above "PermaDry" OS 30061T Felpro one piece gasket.
If it says to put rtv in Only the corners then so be it.
With too much rtv, that slickens rails and gasket can't get traction and can be pushed out of position when tightening.
YMMV
To R&R and engine. I NEVER remove the hood. It just adds hours and possible paint damage. I kinda strip everything off the motor. leave the radiator in. support the front of the trannywith a floor jack so I can move it up and down. I use a hoist coming in from the side of the car since the hood is on.
Ken, the one thing you haven't mentioned is, what cam you're going to replace it with?
Consider this, the only thing worse than going to the trouble to replace the current cam is going to all the trouble and finding that you have the same problem with the new cam. By all means consider a hydraulic roller cam. Break-in will be a snap and even a mild roller will free-up and likely add, some additional power. No need to go radical, just a good cam, with similar lift to what was in there will be well worth the effort.
In the end it may cost a bit more (at this point it's all relative), but the results will be worth it.