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Paint/Body Estimate - Hours - 1968 Vert Body/Shell
Hey All out there in the interwebs!
I am sourcing a paint and body shop in the PHX area to do the paint and body work for my 1968 convertible. I have pulled the body off and stripped everything off/out of it. The body is in decent shape, been sprayed at least twice. There is some glass repair (hole in drivers side firewall and broken holes where the heater box attached to the firewall). it was been in a front end crash and repaired. The repair was not well done from the inside (engine and wheel well) but not noticeable from the painted exterior.
So far the hour quotes I am getting to repair glass work, block, sand, and paint is 200 hours.
Does that sound right for a completely stripped body shell?
It's impossible to say. Some shops are slow because they're good, and some shops are fast because they're bad. And some shops are both slow and bad.
To be realistic, add at least 25% to their estimate due to "unexpected" problems. It would be best to get a firm dollar amount that is not to be exceeded under any circumstances. If the shop complains, have them reexamine the car very carefully for a more accurate estimate. Also(very important) make sure there is a "performance clause" in the written (you are getting a written contact, aren't you!) that specifies a "no excuses" finish date that specifies penalties to be deducted from the price if the date is not met.
Best advice ever
-EVERYTHING and I mean everything any change, addition etc in writing.
-If he wont do it and puts on the goodguy crap take your car and leave
-If youre partway through and pulls it same thing, tow the car away believe me you are saving in the long run
-Dont let yourself get money ahead and work behind learned that one the hard way...twice in a row.
-Asked to see his work or perhaps see customers cars hes done within the last 2 yrs? Whos working in the shop?
-Are there a lot of torn apart cars (that obviously are sitting) with the owner complaining they owe him? Biggest red flag ever
No advice on $, every shop is different.
Get that paper!
Hi John,
On my 71 240 hours were used for body prep and paint.
It was the original paint on a no hit body.
No assembly of any sort was done at the shop.
Regards,
Alan
Alan,
That is one great looking body dolly.
Marshal
Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi John,
On my 71 240 hours were used for body prep and paint.
It was the original paint on a no hit body.
No assembly of any sort was done at the shop.
Regards,
Alan
My old 68 cost $8K (inc. $500 tip) to paint. It was in bad shape. Every panel was reworked and we ended up hanging an ACI door-to-door nose. He had the car from Feb to May. That was about 15 years ago. Expect to pay big bucks for quality. My car came out perfect. Find the right guy.
Last edited by Jeff_Keryk; Apr 30, 2016 at 12:31 AM.
Paint and body on a Vette can be expensive for the fact the stripping process and repair/prep is much different than steel. A car can be severely screwed up in during the paint stripping. Ask what method they're going to use, sanding, chemical or razor blade. When it comes to cost I don't think most people realize what the paint cost now a days. For example I use PPG, they also have a cheaper line called Shopline but there can be trade offs with going cheap. The clears don't have as well UV protection, some bases don't cover as well so you use more paint ( there goes your savings). The materials to paint a Red 82 will be around $2700 (over counter price) off strictly PPG products. The base alone is $600/gal or $200 a quart, mixed 1 to 1 with reducer ($100) gal. you have basecoat that is $225 a sprayable quart, a Vette will take at least 2 quarts of base, depending on color and hiding/coverage. Add clears and primer your materials just got expensive lol. The paint and body can take a car you thought would be a good investment and turn it into ( love for the hobby) car cause you're now head over heals past the actual value. We all know that about classic cars.
Paint/Body Estimate - Hours - 1968 Vert Body/Shell
