When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I pulled into the driveway and was pouring radiator fluid out of the overflow. I saw no fluid links in the cooling system.
I figure its the water pump or the fan clutch. With the engine off, should I be able to turn the fan both directions? My fan spins freely both ways. I'm figuring this is not cool. The neighbor mechanic says it's the fan clutch. The front spring in the clutch appears to be bad? The front piece on the clutch is apparently out too far indicating the clutch spring is broken?
Does this sound correct? I'm hoping to replace the fan clutch first thing tomorrow morning.
With the motor cold the fan should spin easily by hand. With a hot motor the fan should be locked.
I'll assume with the hot motor it'll still be locked when you shut the engine off?
I"m reading the fan should turn freely either direction when the engine is off and cold. More then 3 free spins can indicate the clutch is bad?
My clutch does spin freely, has no play and does not spin more then one free rotation by hand.
I called the PO and he stated the clutch and water pump were new less then 20,000 miles ago. He guessed a thermostat as the car was sitting and used only infrequently recently and the thermostat may have failed due to the sitting.
Maybe he got a cheap fan clutch. Get a good name brand fan clutch and make sure the system has been bled properly. There is not much to the cooling system of a '79 C3, but the relatively low filling spout on the radiator makes bleeding a bit trickier than it should be.
Some recommend drilling small holes in the thermostat to aid with that. I like to fill the system from the thermostat housing and hose and quickly reconnect it all when it is full.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
There are several things to check before you blindly start changing parts.
Pull the thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens, if not get a 'fail safe' replacement.
How old are the hoses? The bottom hose can collapse and restrict the flow.
There are several things to check before you blindly start changing parts.
Pull the thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens, if not get a 'fail safe' replacement.
How old are the hoses? The bottom hose can collapse and restrict the flow.
Is your shroud in place and do you have the spoiler (air dam) under the front of your Corvette?Yes and Yes
With your car at operating temperature and the cap OFF do you see water flowing? I'll try this
Is your radiator original and has it ever been cleaned?The radiator was replaced at the resto 20k miles ago
There are several things to check before you blindly start changing parts.
Pull the thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens, if not get a 'fail safe' replacement.
]
I have never had any luck with the 'fail safe' thermostats. The ones I have used just stick open the first time they are used. Buy a good quality thermostat, maintain your cooling system properly, and forget the gadgets.
Installed a good quality thermostat with a good quality gasket. The old gasket looked rather worn and rotten. It basically disintegrated when i removed the old thermostat. I'll guess the old thermostat was in here quite some time. I've run the car twice for 20 minutes in the garage and the temp never went much higher then 130 or so.
The radiator hoses appear fine. The lower hose appears brand new with the tag still bright and new. The upper hose is good.
I'll keep my fingers crossed as I head the 3 mile trip to work Monday morning.
Make sure the coolant bottle stays full. After couple hot/cold cycles air will burp out of the system. Goal is to keep all air out of the block and rad.