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After the suggestion here and some additional research I think it's time for the wheel bearings in my '79 with about 50k (confirmed) on the clock to get some attention before taking it on a long road trip. I'm the 3rd owner and unfortunately do not know the maintenance history of the car as the 2nd owner died in an accident.
I can handle removing, examining and repacking the fronts but it seems that the rears are beyond my tools and experience.
Fortunately there is a local shop that specializes in Corvettes with a skilled and honest owner. I've used him a few times for small jobs that called for tools and/or direct experience that I don't have.
It has Gymkhana suspension so there is a rear anti-sway bar. All of the bushings are intact and I've never heard a hint of bad noise from the rear end.
Since he tells me to expect a few hundred in labor I ask the experts here:
What else should I have done "while in there?" BTW the parking brakes are recently rebuilt and working extremely well.
You own a "Corvette". If you have work done, there is nothing that costs just a few hundred dollars.
If you can do moderate mechanical work (and are willing to do so), you might be better off to remove the trailing arm assemblies (with bearings assembled) and send those off to be rebuilt. Having someone else remove the T/A's will probably double the cost. Also, you could remove the half-shafts and take them to a driveshaft shop for U-joint change-out for very modest cost. Paying the labor to get down to the work you really need done is usually expensive.
Also, the more they do...the better chance to screw something up.
LOL I noticed that too.. Either the Mechanic has never done one or hes a REALLY GOOD friend.. Lets hope its the latter ..
Me three. Unless the guy is just going to use that greasing tool that goes through the grease seal, I can't imagine doing this job in less than three hours per side and even that assumes that you don't touch the setup to adjust end play.
Incidentally, the trailing arms don't need to come off to service the rear wheel bearings.
Me three. Unless the guy is just going to use that greasing tool that goes through the grease seal, I can't imagine doing this job in less than three hours per side and even that assumes that you don't touch the setup to adjust end play.
Incidentally, the trailing arms don't need to come off to service the rear wheel bearings.
That only greases the inner bearing and that's not where the load is.. .. I don't remove the Trailing Arm either unless it needs service too ..
Last edited by fishslayer143; May 8, 2016 at 09:57 AM.
If the rear bearings need to be replaced, then the bushings in the trailing arm and all the rear wheel hardware need a good "going thru", also. Don't do half the job when you dig that deep into the rear drive system; bring it all 'up to snuff' with one repair.
[QUOTE=7T1vette;1592169747]If the rear bearings need to be replaced, then the bushings in the trailing arm and all the rear wheel hardware need a good "going thru", also. Don't do half the job when you dig that deep into the rear drive system; bring it all 'up to snuff' with one repair.[/QUOT
Its not half the job when its not needed
Last edited by fishslayer143; May 8, 2016 at 02:05 PM.
Thanks for all the replies gentlemen! I seriously twisted my ankle last night and am just now moving reasonably...
Regarding the mechanic and price: I was the one who mentioned that "special GM tool" that allows the rear bearing to be lubed without removal. He said he didn't have one and wouldn't use it anyway because it only did the inner bearing. He then said he had the proper GM tool to remove the spindle that repacking bearings on all four wheels would be "a few--three or four--hundred; labor only". He did not say if he would remove the trailing arms.
If the rear bearings need to be replaced, then the bushings in the trailing arm and all the rear wheel hardware need a good "going thru", also. Don't do half the job when you dig that deep into the rear drive system; bring it all 'up to snuff' with one repair.
This is preventative maintenance. To my knowledge everything is in as good a shape as can be expected for an obviously well-loved 35+ year old car with about 50k on the clock. From the condition of the underside (only minor surface rusting in a few places) it's almost certainly never seen road salt and few (if any) mud puddles.
You own a "Corvette". If you have work done, there is nothing that costs just a few hundred dollars.
If you can do moderate mechanical work (and are willing to do so), you might be better off to remove the trailing arm assemblies (with bearings assembled) and send those off to be rebuilt. Having someone else remove the T/A's will probably double the cost. Also, you could remove the half-shafts and take them to a driveshaft shop for U-joint change-out for very modest cost. Paying the labor to get down to the work you really need done is usually expensive.
Also, the more they do...the better chance to screw something up.
I'm certainly both able and willing to do mechanical work of many kinds but as fine woodworking and pipefitting are this "Jack's main trades" I am aware of my limitations due to lack of specialized tools and inexperience.
I'm certainly both able and willing to do mechanical work of many kinds but as fine woodworking and pipefitting are this "Jack's main trades" I am aware of my limitations due to lack of specialized tools and inexperience.
If you are uncomfortable with the repair then it is wise to let someone with experience do it.. I would suggest , if your mechanic doesn't mind, to watch the procedure and learn what is involved .. You may have another C3 one day ...