Hey is this the correct set up for the starter? I have the positive and those two red ones going to the middle and that loan one going to the small post near the engine. We have everything connected and yet it won't even turn over.

 

I don't have a photo of mine showing that area. Here are a few drawings I scanned from the AIM and Shop Manual. Maybe this will help...

 

Just want to point out that the diagrams indicate the "S" terminal should have a purple wire on it. Yours looks black in the photo.

 

Also the correct attaching method is nut-connector-nut like you have for the large pos wire. The nut you have the black(?) wire under holds the stud in position.

 

with a test light see if you have power.I also would look behind the passenger side engine head.there is a wire connector there that goes bad or gets loose .

 

Not a great photo, but it might help.

 

So I'm suppose to have a empty post like I have in the picture? I didn't see the nut problem on the small wire.. Lol I'll fix that. Yes we just got a screwdriver and touched posts to confirm power and we got a spark. I'm thinking it is the alarm the 82' has cause it won't turn over and we lost the keys yet the ignition lock turns all the way over so I'm guessing somehow we tripped the alarm?

 

According to the owner's manual...

The alarm system is armed when the electric door locks are activated. It is disarmed by opening either door with a key or turning on the ignition. After being armed, the alarm system will trip if a door is opened (without using the key) or a T-top is removed. Once the alarm trips, it can only be shut down by unlocking a door with the key. When the alarm is active, it energizes the starter interrupt relay and the horn will pulsate at a rate of 50 cycles per minute.

I looked at the '82 wiring diagram, and the S (start) wire on the solenoid should definitely be purple. Also, don't forget about the neutral safety switch.

 

Thst wire is purple. It's just dirty. And what's up with this switch? My horn didn't pulsate.

 

If the horn isn't pulsating, it's probably not the alarm causing your problem. That doesn't mean it's not the relay though. Did you check for voltage on the purple wire while someone turns the ignition key? I've seen a bad solenoid do this. If it's not the solenoid itself, you'll have to trace it out with a voltmeter. The list of possible culprits includes the alarm relay, neutral safety switch, ignition switch, and probably a fuse or circuit breaker somewhere (don't have the schematic in front of me right now).

 

I'm going to try to jump the 3 prong oil switch... I'm not getting the fuel pump to turn on either. Using a paper clips which holes do I bed to connect to? I'm going to try the neutral switch tomorrow.

 

There is voltage to the relay. I put the red lead to the big post on the battery then the black lead to the small post and it is showing battery voltage and when you turn the ignition it still shows. Same with the neutral switch.

 

Is there voltage on the purple wire at the starter when you turn the ignition switch? Are other electrical items in the car working satisfactorily, like brake and turn signals? Incidentally, a few pairs of clip leads for your meter can make life much easier when troubleshooting problems like this. Clip leads will let you ground the Neg probe with several feet of wire, then move the meter to where you need it in order to measure +12. Or, you can add a clip lead to each probe and position the meter in the engine compartment in such a way that it can be read from the driver's seat while turning the ignition. Lots of uses!

 

Yes there is voltage to the starter relay. And it stays powered when I turn the ignition. Yea I do have some clips I forgot all about lol.

 

Let's work backwards from the purple wire at the starter. I'll assume for now you have no voltage there when you turn the ignition. If that's not correct, IOW if you have voltage on the purple wire and the red starter wire both when the ign is turned, but nothing happens, that would mean the solenoid itself is bad.

The purple wire on the starter goes to a large connector or junction with 18 wires in it. (That's shown in the main wiring diagram, not the image below.) I'm guessing the connector is on the firewall somewhere. On the other side of it, the purple wire continues and connects to one contact of the Starter Interrupter Relay. The other contact has a purple-white wire that connects to a contact on the Neutral Safety Switch. The other contact of the Neutral Safety Switch has a yellow wire. That wire goes to the Ignition Switch. All of these points should have +12V when you turn the ignition to Start.

I have included a diagram from the shop manual. I added the red line to show the path that energizes the starter solenoid. That's the direct path from the ignition switch to the Start connector on the starter. Some of the related paths in the diagram are used by the control module, but the direct path is the only one to be concerned about for initial troubleshooting.

 

That might or might not be related to this problem. My suggestion is to get the starter working first, or at least figure out where the problem is. Then you'll know whether additional troubleshooting is needed for the pump.

 

Ok I jumped the starter and it turns over..! So tested power with my volt meter to the neutral switch on one side is a purple and then a purple with white tracer. That has battery voltage with key on and when I turn to start it it stays the same. Also with the other side with the the pink and green same thing. According to this diagram where is the park neutral relay and the starter relay?


Neutral switch that has battery voltage going in and out from both side with key on and ignition on.




According to this I have a starter relay and a park neutral relay. What's the difference between the park neutral and the neutral switch?

 

Hey!! Ok got the starter to work!! I just replaced the whole thing! And it turns now! But now I gotta figure out why the fuel pump ain't working? Anyone got any feedback on this?? I unplugged the oil switch and still nothing.

 

The fuel pump is activated by the ECM working through the fuel pump relay. There's a fuse for the relay near the top of the fuse panel. I think it's labeled "FP." The relay itself is a common failure item. It's located on the same vertical panel that holds the ECM in the battery compartment, and you have to unbolt the ECM for access. The relay is held in place with two screws that go through the panel from the passenger compartment, and the heads are under the carpet. So, you'll have to pull the carpet (or cut two slits) to get to the screws if you want to remove the old relay. In my case, I left it where it was and relocated the plug back toward the battery. Then I plugged in a new relay and left it loose in the compartment. The relay and wiring are fully insulated, so nothing bad will happen if you do this. The original '82 relay can be difficult to find, but a relay for the '84 will work. It's slightly different mechanically (won't mount in the original location), but it plugs into the harness, and it's electrically identical.

 

How do you check the relay?