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HP is a calculation, engineering wise you can not rate parts with it. Compression ratio and piston speed would be the determining factors in what the stock block will take.
If you are staying around 10 to 1 and 3.75 stroke you fine. You put 14 to 1 on it and 4" stroke then you have a WILLPOP.....will pop at anytime.
he was still on 93 with efi and alum heads so 10:1 minimum to 11.5:1 possibly.
OK...what is the biggest cubic inch SBC one can safely build with a 3970010 4 bolt main block using ARP studs/hardware everywhere in the engine....????
Street motor with clutch and manual trans, 4.11 rear and beefed up rear suspension/drivetrain.
With 4.03 bore and 3.875 stroke you will get 396 cid.
A stock 400 bored .030 is a 406, stud the bottom end if it's a 2 bolt, and it will make a fine street engine.
I have 2 400 cores right now just waiting to be built.
I've heard rumors that Harbor Freight is going to start selling Skip White engines...once he brings 'em up to their quality standards.
LOL I have bought rotating assemblies from them and had good luck, but we do our own machine work on the block, and check everything as far as the crank, and rod sizes. They do sell decent name brand parts for a good price.
There are plenty of 5.700 rod 406's running around......it makes zero difference on the street.
Jebby
Tony Bischoff of BES Racing made 673 HP and 579 torque with 10.4 to 1 compression pump gas 400 with 5.7 rods and won the Engine Masters contest in 2008 with it.
As far as a stock block, it all depends on the luck of the draw. Some break, others don't. A friend of mine had 560 HP, 530 TQ 406 with a 200 shot of nitrous on top that he ran for at least 10 years. It was a 2 bolt block with billet steel 4 bolt splayed caps.
x3 2 bolt or 4 bolt doesnt make that big a difference theres only so much main webbing, also seen some get beaten to death and live, others the head bolt cracks into the cyl soon as the customer spends a grand on machine work plus all the parts
Torque the head bolts down and...pop
Dart and Blueprint sell better 400 blocks in the long run its worth it
Maybe I should have worded this differently.....
I am well aware how to figure CI with bore and stroke.
What I wanted to know is .... in comparing a Dart block vs a stock SBC block (using a 3970010)....what is the upper limit of the stock block in boring and stroking?
I have 3 of these blocks (3970010) all 4 bolt mains, one fresh bored .030 and the other 2 virgin.
One is already started as a 383.
Interested in building a 406 and/or a 427.
Want to know the pros and cons of using what I have vs 2-3K on a Dart block.
Thanks for any insight from those that have experience in these actual blocks and configurations.
HP is a calculation, it does not destroy blocks. The reliability of engine is affected by either the amount of stroke or compression. The longer the stroke the more stress the block will see. The higher the compression the more stress the block will see.
You can easily get 434 cid out of the dart block. I am not sure if you can reliably get much more than the 396 out of the 350 block. With the dart block you get many improvements,priority main oiling,blind deck holes for head bolts,splayed 4 bolt main caps,enhanced cooling jacket etc..
bman the dart block is worlds stronger than the GM block has a couple sublte improvements to boot; will have to decide on 350 or 400 mains
Your 383 is a reg 350 block you can make pretty good power with them
Some have even stuffed a 4" stroke in the 350 block wouldnt recommend it though.
if you dont mind saving get the Dart and add extra stroke to that, choose your head size right you can have a 421 or? that has very good manners and makes killer torque at any rpm range. Bigger is usually better....never used a Dart shortblock but if you look on their site them build them ready to go. Stay away from the cheap ebay stuff
I rebuilt a 406 for my corvette but it's still sitting on the engine stand. I used the summit rebuild kit with Hypertec 9.6 compression pistons and I did use ARP studs for the main bearings. Some builders say you must line bore your block with the studs installed, I chose to roll the dice. I spun the crank many rotations and then disassembled it. I couldn't see any anomalies of wear on any bearing surface. Now I just have to wait for my crossfire 350 to finally blow up or start puking smoke. At 150,000 miles it can't live forever.....or could it