Bogging around 3000 RPM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bogging around 3000 RPM
Hey guys, I have a 1979 4-speed. I just installed Doug's Headers and Side pipes with STS baffles and rejetted my carb from a 72 main jet to a 74.
When I rejetted the carb last week, I just made one first gear pull on an open area of road and it seemed like it pulled well. I've been busy for the last week so I hadn't had time to mess with the idle and mixture.
Well tonight I decided I would try to fine tune the idle and mixture screws (it was idling kinda rough after the rejet and header install). I adjusted both mixture screws to 3 turns out as a starting point and adjusted the idle to about 900 RPM. I went out on the road to see how the car was pulling, and it just hits a brick wall around 3000 RPM. What gives? I thought the mixture screws only adjusted mixture at idle?
Ideas?
When I rejetted the carb last week, I just made one first gear pull on an open area of road and it seemed like it pulled well. I've been busy for the last week so I hadn't had time to mess with the idle and mixture.
Well tonight I decided I would try to fine tune the idle and mixture screws (it was idling kinda rough after the rejet and header install). I adjusted both mixture screws to 3 turns out as a starting point and adjusted the idle to about 900 RPM. I went out on the road to see how the car was pulling, and it just hits a brick wall around 3000 RPM. What gives? I thought the mixture screws only adjusted mixture at idle?
Ideas?
#2
Le Mans Master
Now that you've started modifying your Corvette, I highly recommend both a quality fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge, like the Aeromotive unit pictured below. The $29 Holley's will fail eventually and leave you stranded (as I've witnessed a few times already, including personally). You need to know what you're fuel system is doing.
Secondly, I can't stress enough, the superb advantage of having an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, like the wideband unit, sold by AEM. You will know instantly at all times, exactly what A/F ratio your carb is at, whether it's at idle, 3,000 RPM or Wide Open. Easy install, and they even include the O2 sensor and the bung to weld onto your headers. Way better than guessing and scratching your head at the results. I also run a dedicated vacuum gauge as well, because there's a lot that can be told from that too. I replaced my clock with the vacuum gauge.
Aeromotive FPR and Gauge:
AEM Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge:
O2 Sensor on header:
Secondly, I can't stress enough, the superb advantage of having an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, like the wideband unit, sold by AEM. You will know instantly at all times, exactly what A/F ratio your carb is at, whether it's at idle, 3,000 RPM or Wide Open. Easy install, and they even include the O2 sensor and the bung to weld onto your headers. Way better than guessing and scratching your head at the results. I also run a dedicated vacuum gauge as well, because there's a lot that can be told from that too. I replaced my clock with the vacuum gauge.
Aeromotive FPR and Gauge:
AEM Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge:
O2 Sensor on header:
#3
when you had the carburetor open to install the jets did you do anything that would have effected the needle and seat or float? Did you check or adjust the float while you had it open? Float should be set for .250. Did you check if your fuel filter is clogged? I'm assuming you still have the stock Quadrajet.
Last edited by MelWff; 05-26-2016 at 12:33 PM.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Now that you've started modifying your Corvette, I highly recommend both a quality fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge, like the Aeromotive unit pictured below. The $29 Holley's will fail eventually and leave you stranded (as I've witnessed a few times already, including personally). You need to know what you're fuel system is doing.
Secondly, I can't stress enough, the superb advantage of having an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, like the wideband unit, sold by AEM. You will know instantly at all times, exactly what A/F ratio your carb is at, whether it's at idle, 3,000 RPM or Wide Open. Easy install, and they even include the O2 sensor and the bung to weld onto your headers. Way better than guessing and scratching your head at the results. I also run a dedicated vacuum gauge as well, because there's a lot that can be told from that too. I replaced my clock with the vacuum gauge.
Secondly, I can't stress enough, the superb advantage of having an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, like the wideband unit, sold by AEM. You will know instantly at all times, exactly what A/F ratio your carb is at, whether it's at idle, 3,000 RPM or Wide Open. Easy install, and they even include the O2 sensor and the bung to weld onto your headers. Way better than guessing and scratching your head at the results. I also run a dedicated vacuum gauge as well, because there's a lot that can be told from that too. I replaced my clock with the vacuum gauge.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
when you had the carburetor open to install the jets did you do anything that would have effected the needle and seat or float? Did you check or adjust the float while you had it open? Float should be set for .250. Did you check if your fuel filter is clogged? I'm assuming you still have the stock Quadrajet.
I haven't checked the fuel filter. Is there one in the carb? Or is it inline somewhere between the tank and carb?
#6
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St. Jude Donor '05
some qjets had one in the inlet you can see it when you take the line off
Some leave em in some remove them. id leave it
Edit: why would the op need a regulator if its a stock fuel pump/Qjet? 02 gauge great idea
Some leave em in some remove them. id leave it
Edit: why would the op need a regulator if its a stock fuel pump/Qjet? 02 gauge great idea
Last edited by cv67; 05-26-2016 at 03:57 PM.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My carb # is 17059216. Which I believe makes it a 1979 Auto (my car is a 4-speed, so the carb was swapped at some point).
#8
Drifting
There is a lot of room to improve A/F ratios with metering rod changes. It may be as simple as dropping in richer secondary rods. If the metering rods are stock, there is a lot of room for improvement.
#10
Float Level
I checked my float and it is set at about .370. Isn't .250 a bit high? I don't have Lars papers handy at the moment, but that seems like a high float height. Correct me if I'm wrong!
I haven't checked the fuel filter. Is there one in the carb? Or is it inline somewhere between the tank and carb?
I haven't checked the fuel filter. Is there one in the carb? Or is it inline somewhere between the tank and carb?
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'll post up my a/f ratios at idle, cruise, and WOT as soon as I have my 02 sensor installed (hopefully this weekend)
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#13
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If it hits a brick wall....it would have to be way off on A/F to do that...especially if it was OK before. Idle screws aren't going to do that.
Ck the secondary lock out from the choke linkage. If it has heat stove choke on the intake, the headers pretty much keep it from working like original and it may not pull far away to un lock the secondary plates. Either wire off he lock or remove it.
JIM
Ck the secondary lock out from the choke linkage. If it has heat stove choke on the intake, the headers pretty much keep it from working like original and it may not pull far away to un lock the secondary plates. Either wire off he lock or remove it.
JIM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If it hits a brick wall....it would have to be way off on A/F to do that...especially if it was OK before. Idle screws aren't going to do that.
Ck the secondary lock out from the choke linkage. If it has heat stove choke on the intake, the headers pretty much keep it from working like original and it may not pull far away to un lock the secondary plates. Either wire off he lock or remove it.
JIM
Ck the secondary lock out from the choke linkage. If it has heat stove choke on the intake, the headers pretty much keep it from working like original and it may not pull far away to un lock the secondary plates. Either wire off he lock or remove it.
JIM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok, so what causes the secondaries to not open? I just took my air cleaner off and checked and they move freely. Sorry, I'm pretty new to carbs, but I'm learning.
#17
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Look on passenger side of carb down where the throttle shafts come through. You'll see a little lock lever between the two that is hooked to the choke linkage. It has to be pulled out of the way to unlock the rear throttle shaft. There's a plastic diaphragm choke pull off on right front of carb hooked into all of this linkage too. But probably the lock out tab
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Look on passenger side of carb down where the throttle shafts come through. You'll see a little lock lever between the two that is hooked to the choke linkage. It has to be pulled out of the way to unlock the rear throttle shaft. There's a plastic diaphragm choke pull off on right front of carb hooked into all of this linkage too. But probably the lock out tab
#19
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It's interesting that the choke linkage seems to be the culprit. When I was last in the carb, the choke arm became unattached from the linkage inside the carb and I had to reinsert it. I'm pretty confident I put it back on correctly, but maybe something came out of alignment?
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mobird (05-27-2016)
#20
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It's interesting that the choke linkage seems to be the culprit. When I was last in the carb, the choke arm became unattached from the linkage inside the carb and I had to reinsert it. I'm pretty confident I put it back on correctly, but maybe something came out of alignment?