Hey all, so I'm doing an engine, and trans swap, on my 78 Corvette. I got a heck of a deal on a Blueprint 383 stroker, and 700r4 combo. It has 900 miles on it, and I bought the motor, built trans, torque converter and carb for $3,000 with receipts totaling $6,500. The motor dynoed at 450hp. My initial plan is to eventually put Holley EFI on it. I already have a full exhaust on the car, with long tube ceramic headers. I also already have the Be Cool radiator and fans. I will, however, need to buy a serpentine setup, and the complete kit, from March, sounds very appealing....even at $1,900.... Now, here's where things get interesting.

I'm guessing I could sell my engine and trans for $5,000, giving me a $2,000 profit, and $5,000 overall extra budget. I could then buy a wrecked GM truck, with the 6.0 in it. I see them for roughly $1,000 to $2,000. I could use what I need, and part the truck out. This would give me a fuel injected motor, with plenty of potential for power adders, an overdrive transmission, and save some money to start. Now, what I don't know, is how much it will cost to make the ECU talk to the factory gauges, and since I want to keep AC, how do I make all that work? Is there a bracket kit I can buy for the car? If anyone has the info on this, or has been down this road, any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

I haven't done this, and there are people here who have who will no doubt be along shortly to provide more/better info. I looked into fitting a t56 box (electronic speedo output), and the converter box to run my stock speedo was quite expensive. I wouldn't expect other gauges to present a major issue. Im not sure, but I imagine that accessory brackets/pulleys from a truck may not fit, and you'd have to buy an aftermarket or Camaro/Corvette setup. Keep in mind that you will need to buy a fuel system and run additional lines, and there will be a fair bit of wiring involved. Exhaust headers may be difficult too, possibly you might need custom made ones. And make sure you have room for your desired trans in the tunnel. But if you're up for the additional work and are happy with the appearance of the LS under the hood, then it's hard to imagine any/many downsides once complete.

 

New 383>junkyard 6.0

GM sells a controller if you do a retro swap makes it pretty easy. Its (like said)fuel system accessories all the little nickel and dime stuff that adds up...headers etc

Stock 6.0 arent bad but wont give you 450/lb tq dropping it in keep the Gen1

You got a pretty fair deal sounds like

What you selling for 5k?

Metal head that box does cost...too much
think a GPS or ? would do the trick

 

I would be selling my entire setup for $5,000, if I didn't use it.

 

Could use a gps speedo, I have ones from Speedhut in my other 2 cars, but he asked about factory gauges.

 

If you could sell it for 5k $ and had the time and ambition to do the swap it would be a worth while swap provided youd rather have the ls inyead if your current mill, you can buy a tvs 2300 blower set up and make close to 550 horse with fuel milage and longevity to boot, add a camshaft to the swap and probably at 600 horse, it does seems like a lot of eXtra work and money.

 

When it came to dealing with the mechanical speedometer, I was faced with either relying on a VSS signal to an electric motor to drive my speedometer or find a way to drive the cable in a conventional fashion...yet still provide the required VSS signal, I came up with a better idea.
This is the 4L60e I built for my 74 Stingray. Pay attention to the rear tailshaft. This picture shows the transmission before the mod, and as it sits it's unable to drive a conventional speedometer cable




The tailshaft on the right is a stock 4L60e from an Fbody (TransAm). The shorter one on the left is what we need. It came from a 700R4 transmission. It has a conventional tailshaft/gear driven speedo connection, but it too short




Here's a better shot at what we need




Here's where the magic comes in.




Here's a shot of the 4L60e tailshaft. It now needs to not only drive a speedometer cable, but it also must provide the VSS signal to the PCM. What needs done is to move the reluctor wheel further into the transmission. This will relocate the VSS sensor and allow me to line up a conventional speedometer gear with the 700r4 tailshaft housing.




Here's a shot of the actual required VSS sensor




Now it makes sense. The aluminum spacer will provide the new location for the VSS sensor as well as take up the space for the shorter tailshaft




this is where the relocated VSS sensor will reside




This puts us right back into where we need to be




This allowed me to install a conventional speedometer cable and even calibrate it for the 3:73 rear gear swap. This also removes the responsibility of driving the speedometer by a VSS controlled electric motor driving your speedo cable

 

Wow! This is extremely helpful! Thank you so much!

 

Put the 383/700r4 in and save the headache.....
The money you save will not be enough to buy the aspirin you need....

It will go plenty fast and be plenty cool......

That is my opinion....good luck which ever way you go....

Jebby

 

As part of human nature, it's normal to fear that which we don't understand. Once you confront that fear eye to eye, you realize that along with that fear come triumphant joy when you break through the technological wall that keeps you within the comfort of a 4 barrel carburetor. When you add up the benefits of going to a computer controlled fuel injected engine and compare it to an old school engine the result will always favor injection. Is it EASIER to go old school? Duh. But is it better? Nope....