When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for recommendations for my 420HP 383. I'm having a vapor lock issue and need to replace my crate engine fuel pump with a return line model. My current pump has no return and car vapor locks after 10 mins at idle with a warm engine on a hot day. Thanks in advance.
I have a 383/450HP with a Holley 750DP and use a stock small block 350 pump with integrated return. Same that came on the car with the L-48. Rock Solid! (and not expensive). No regulator required!
I was experiencing what I thought was a vapour lock issue with my new motor upgrades earlier this year . I tried three different carbs , took off my fuel pump that had return line and installed edelbrock 110 gph no return line and installed new distributor and still had issues . I was using a 91 octane fuel with 10 percent ethanol . Switched to 94 octane and no ethanol problem fixed . I would be happy if I could get 91 ethanol free but cost more than the 94 so will keep running it . Just a thought worked for me
Looking for recommendations for my 420HP 383. I'm having a vapor lock issue and need to replace my crate engine fuel pump with a return line model. My current pump has no return and car vapor locks after 10 mins at idle with a warm engine on a hot day. Thanks in advance.
You might also try an insulating gasket between the carb and intake manifold. Edelbrock makes a good one. Heat transferred from the engine to the carb on my 454 boiled the gas until the fuel bowls were empty when the car was hot and then turned off. The insulating gasket fixed the problem.
You might also try an insulating gasket between the carb and intake manifold. Edelbrock makes a good one. Heat transferred from the engine to the carb on my 454 boiled the gas until the fuel bowls were empty when the car was hot and then turned off. The insulating gasket fixed the problem.
Good advice. I installed a .75" spacer (Tallest that would fit under hood) last year. I also wrapped my fuel lines and moved them away from headers as much as possible.
My engine temp nor my underhood temp seems to be a issue. Both run cooler than most. coolant temp was 190ish and I have a air temp sensor thats mounted on back firewall. It registered 98. Both numbers recorded at time of vapor lock
Only thing I know to try at this point is the fuel return.
Last edited by Bloodzone; Jun 1, 2016 at 07:04 PM.
What kind of line are you running? I have been running braided hose for a couple of years now with now issues. I detuned my 383 from my drag racing days and have not experience it. What kind of vacuum are you running at idle from the carb? Timing? I had stumbling issues this spring after i installed a new oil pump. I had to readjust the timing for the hot humid days. Just a thought.
what did you do with the hose that came from the vapor separator near the tank to the canister? Left it open or closed it?
All that was already removed from the L48 when I got the car. I've since replaced the L48 with a dressed 383 crate and only minimum necessary hoses are connected so that old piping is gone.
All that was already removed from the L48 when I got the car. I've since replaced the L48 with a dressed 383 crate and only minimum necessary hoses are connected so that old piping is gone.
I would first look a little closer back near the tank to see what they did with that line before going to a vented cap.
I would first look a little closer back near the tank to see what they did with that line before going to a vented cap.
Good call. I'll try and verify whats been done with the line to tank. I've never noticed any air sound when I open the tank, I bet the old line is unplugged.
Last edited by Bloodzone; Jun 2, 2016 at 05:01 PM.
Plan is to remove my NPT in line fuel pressure gauge. Replace it with a NPT to 1/4 Barb fitting and run line to my old capped off return. Then test for vapor lock.