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Hey guys, may be a stupid question here, but I am building a 383 stroker (first build) and was curious to know if it is mandatory to degree the new Hydraulic Roller camshaft? From what I understand it is just to make sure that the specs on the cam card match the grind. Thoughts?
I have always heard to degree the cam.All the people I know that race, all degree there cams.But I have never heard of any one saying that theres was off.I am sure that its a good idea,,,,,but on a street motor not sure its a have to .JMO
why degree a cam.. only if it is cut wrong.. and what do you do if you do degree the cam and find out is is off by a few degrees... yes I have never heard anyone saying it was off.
it is just a quality check.. just do your diligence with the company you buy from...
I have a degree wheel and have used it a lot for various troubleshooting purposes, but have to say, I have never actually "degreed" a cam when installing one. but I will agree with the rest, it's a good habit and good insurance, but probably not absolutely necessary. OTOH, understanding what the engine is doing, how overlap works, etc. is a good education...I have seen timing marks stamped incorrectly on some timing gear setups but never on a Chevy V8.
Drill the alignment hole that goes over the pin oversize, then you use an eccentric to adjust the timing. Also used to advance or retard the timing for racing. I have found cams (mostly flat tappet) to be off a couple degrees.
If it's off what exactly does one do? Aside from nothing?
You correct it by advancing it or retarding the cam until it measures to the correct (or desired) centerline/opening point/valve/tappet timing event (depending on which method to degree the cam your using).
You advance or retard the cam by using a different keyway on the crank sprocket (multi keyway crank sprockets) or by drilling the cam gear and using an offset dowel pin bushing (single keyway crank sprockets).
It's important to check behind manufactures. Mistakes do happen. While some engine combos are not very sensitive to small changes... some are and it's just part of doing your part to make your engine all that it can be.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; Jun 7, 2016 at 09:05 AM.
I just put a roller cam in my LS-7 build and it checked out to be 1 deg off. At least I know. Now I have exact TDC and can set my damper and timing pointer to 0. I have found the factory marks to be off also.
There are different levels to which you can 'degree' a cam. You can simply check the intake centerline (ICL) or you can go as far as verifying duration @.050 on both intake and exhaust lobes. Definitely check the ICL because you may want to advance or retard the timing gear based on what you find. Verifying duration is kind of fun if you are into that sort of thing. You can verify max lift at the lobe as well. Don't forget to check piston to valve clearance as well while you've got your degree wheel and dial indicator out.
Spending a few extra dollars on a good timing chain that has more than three adjustments(4* advanced,straight up,4* retarded).Something like a Cloyes (one of several) Hex a just can allow you to advance or retard the cam without having to drill the sprocket or use offset bushings.
If you want the cam to come in sooner then you can advance the Intake centerline 2*-4*.If you have a stroker motor and want to kill some low end torque you can retard it for more of a top end charge or to help off the line traction issues.
Advancing the cam(in a situation where it may be a little too big for your setup)can build some cylinder pressure and help the bottom end and overall performance.
Another consideration is whether you installed the cam yourself (an how much confidence you have in your knowledge) or was it installed by someone else.
I had some "good ole boys" install a cam in an engine I pulled out of a 1971 Cutlass. They had been pretty competent doing most of the work on converting a 1939 Olds to a street rod. But when I got it on the road it didn't seem to have much power and only got 9 mpg. I finally degreed the cam myself and it was 40 degrees advanced. The mechanic lined the the timing mark with the keyway instead of the appropriate mark on the crank. After I reset it myself, it had some power and mileage jumped to 18 mpg. In the end it was still off by 2 degrees from the manufacturer. I left it 2 degrees retarded.