1980 Positive battery cable question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
1980 Positive battery cable question
Hi all,
I'm still troubleshooting a heat soak issue on my 1980 and just ran a new, temporary positive battery cable. Instead of running it through the tunnel I came out the bottom of the battery box and over to the starter. If this works I'll dress it in the correct way. Anyway the car starts fine but the choke light and battery light are now on when the car is running. I ran the cable from the positive battery terminal straight to the starter. Did I some how miss another cable? The factory cable on the car has a 90 degree end where the new one was straight so I had to bend it to make it work but does the factory cable connect to something else before going to the starter?
Thanks,
Sam
I'm still troubleshooting a heat soak issue on my 1980 and just ran a new, temporary positive battery cable. Instead of running it through the tunnel I came out the bottom of the battery box and over to the starter. If this works I'll dress it in the correct way. Anyway the car starts fine but the choke light and battery light are now on when the car is running. I ran the cable from the positive battery terminal straight to the starter. Did I some how miss another cable? The factory cable on the car has a 90 degree end where the new one was straight so I had to bend it to make it work but does the factory cable connect to something else before going to the starter?
Thanks,
Sam
Zen Vet Master Level VII
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 5,218
Likes: 1,174
From: Southlake, TX
I did a quick search and I think you may have might want to check a "power distribution" portion of the wiring diagram as there is a coupe of feeds off the battery. I'm thinking that you skipped the alternator and are not charging your system?
Question, why would you by pass the harness for a heat soak issue?
Also, if you just put thing back the way they were and the warning lights go off, you will know instantly that you by passed something important.
Question, why would you by pass the harness for a heat soak issue?
Also, if you just put thing back the way they were and the warning lights go off, you will know instantly that you by passed something important.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
From what I can tell I only have 2 additional wires, one coming off of the battery cable going to the power distribution block and another wire that connects to the starter on the same terminal as the main battery cable.
I'm not bypassing anything, I'm just not running the new cable in the driveshaft tunnel yet until I know it fixes the problem, everything should be terminated as it was before.
I haven't tried to put that back yet, I will later when I get a chance.
I'm not bypassing anything, I'm just not running the new cable in the driveshaft tunnel yet until I know it fixes the problem, everything should be terminated as it was before.
I haven't tried to put that back yet, I will later when I get a chance.
I did a quick search and I think you may have might want to check a "power distribution" portion of the wiring diagram as there is a coupe of feeds off the battery. I'm thinking that you skipped the alternator and are not charging your system?
Question, why would you by pass the harness for a heat soak issue?
Also, if you just put thing back the way they were and the warning lights go off, you will know instantly that you by passed something important.
Question, why would you by pass the harness for a heat soak issue?
Also, if you just put thing back the way they were and the warning lights go off, you will know instantly that you by passed something important.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 943
Likes: 73
New positive cables do not have the additional wire connected to the terminal the way the original has it. Did you make up a 10 gauge wire to go from the positive terminal over to the power block inside of the battery compartment? This is your connection back up to the alternator.
Zen Vet Master Level VII
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 5,218
Likes: 1,174
From: Southlake, TX
New positive cables do not have the additional wire connected to the terminal the way the original has it. Did you make up a 10 gauge wire to go from the positive terminal over to the power block inside of the battery compartment? This is your connection back up to the alternator.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
The one I bought did. This is the one I bought. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252392445118
Anyway the problem was the terminal connector on the end of the 10 awg cable was broken under the insulation. I replaced it and that problem cleared, however the heat soak issue is still present. So back to square 1.
Anyway the problem was the terminal connector on the end of the 10 awg cable was broken under the insulation. I replaced it and that problem cleared, however the heat soak issue is still present. So back to square 1.
New positive cables do not have the additional wire connected to the terminal the way the original has it. Did you make up a 10 gauge wire to go from the positive terminal over to the power block inside of the battery compartment? This is your connection back up to the alternator.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
Exactly, when it's cold it starts fine, no issues. When it's hot is hard to crank.
Yes, I even replaced the negative battery cable and ran another cable directly from the ground point on the chassis from the battery cable directly to the starter mounting bolt.
I've also replaced the starter 3 times and just put in a high torque min starter with no luck. I also put in a new battery and the timing is correct.
Yes, I even replaced the negative battery cable and ran another cable directly from the ground point on the chassis from the battery cable directly to the starter mounting bolt.
I've also replaced the starter 3 times and just put in a high torque min starter with no luck. I also put in a new battery and the timing is correct.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
It's the original 350 L48 with an Edelbrock intake and Doug's side pipe headers. Timing is at 12 to 13 degrees (I have an automatic). I can retard it a tad, only by a couple degrees , anything past that and it bogs down real bad.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 943
Likes: 73
Ok, no collector pipe heating up the starter, no high compression, timing is not advanced, three new starters and a new battery. I think I would hook up a volt meter to check the voltage to the starter when you turn the key (when it's hot).
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
I've done that in the past but at the battery. When cold the voltage drop goes from 14 to 10 but when hot it goes from 14 to 7 so something is sucking up juice.
QUOTE=BlackC3vette;1592409609]Ok, no collector pipe heating up the starter, no high compression, timing is not advanced, three new starters and a new battery. I think I would hook up a volt meter to check the voltage to the starter when you turn the key (when it's hot).[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=BlackC3vette;1592409609]Ok, no collector pipe heating up the starter, no high compression, timing is not advanced, three new starters and a new battery. I think I would hook up a volt meter to check the voltage to the starter when you turn the key (when it's hot).[/QUOTE]
Last edited by samdjr74; Jun 12, 2016 at 08:14 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 943
Likes: 73
I've done that in the past but at the battery. When cold the voltage drop goes from 14 to 10 but when hot it goes from 14 to 7 so something is sucking up juice.
QUOTE=BlackC3vette;1592409609]Ok, no collector pipe heating up the starter, no high compression, timing is not advanced, three new starters and a new battery. I think I would hook up a volt meter to check the voltage to the starter when you turn the key (when it's hot).
QUOTE=BlackC3vette;1592409609]Ok, no collector pipe heating up the starter, no high compression, timing is not advanced, three new starters and a new battery. I think I would hook up a volt meter to check the voltage to the starter when you turn the key (when it's hot).
To confirm a problem with your wiring to the connection on your starter solenoid, I usually use a remote switch. You could just use a wire with an alligator clip to connect to the solenoid and then touch the other end to a (full 12v) jumper box or the battery. If the starter (hot) turns over normally, you need to start check your wire harness. Honestly, if you have tried numerous starters and the problem remains, I would think the solenoids were not the problem. Remember, the solenoid is the part that really gets the heat soaking with its wire wound core. Without sufficient voltage when hot, the starter doesn't like to turn over.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
I would have thought that by replacing the battery cable I would have ruled out the wiring. What else would be in the chain?
To confirm a problem with your wiring to the connection on your starter solenoid, I usually use a remote switch. You could just use a wire with an alligator clip to connect to the solenoid and then touch the other end to a (full 12v) jumper box or the battery. If the starter (hot) turns over normally, you need to start check your wire harness. Honestly, if you have tried numerous starters and the problem remains, I would think the solenoids were not the problem. Remember, the solenoid is the part that really gets the heat soaking with its wire wound core. Without sufficient voltage when hot, the starter doesn't like to turn over.[/QUOTE]
To confirm a problem with your wiring to the connection on your starter solenoid, I usually use a remote switch. You could just use a wire with an alligator clip to connect to the solenoid and then touch the other end to a (full 12v) jumper box or the battery. If the starter (hot) turns over normally, you need to start check your wire harness. Honestly, if you have tried numerous starters and the problem remains, I would think the solenoids were not the problem. Remember, the solenoid is the part that really gets the heat soaking with its wire wound core. Without sufficient voltage when hot, the starter doesn't like to turn over.[/QUOTE]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 943
Likes: 73
[QUOTE=samdjr74;1592410574]I would have thought that by replacing the battery cable I would have ruled out the wiring. What else would be in the chain?
When you turn your key switch, you need full battery voltage going to the starter solenoid. A good cable connection to the lug is very important, but it's the solenoid that engages the warp drive.
It's GM so it might be a purple wire, I don't remember, I can check tomorrow. It could be a poor contact in the switch on your steering column, neutral safety or it could be a bad connection where the starter harness connects to the main harness (TimAT)
Hang in there, hopefully more forum members like TimAT will jump in to help.
When you turn your key switch, you need full battery voltage going to the starter solenoid. A good cable connection to the lug is very important, but it's the solenoid that engages the warp drive.
It's GM so it might be a purple wire, I don't remember, I can check tomorrow. It could be a poor contact in the switch on your steering column, neutral safety or it could be a bad connection where the starter harness connects to the main harness (TimAT)
Hang in there, hopefully more forum members like TimAT will jump in to help.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 567
Likes: 82
From: Auckland
[QUOTE=BlackC3vette;1592410930]
It is the purple wire wire.
I just had an odd problem on mine, Don't know if it was effecting hot starting or not, but in theory it could have. One of the hot wires into the plug that connects through the firewall wasn't secured in the plug properly and would push out when plugged in. So while everything would work I was getting all sorts of weird things happening.
When you turn your key switch, you need full battery voltage going to the starter solenoid. A good cable connection to the lug is very important, but it's the solenoid that engages the warp drive.
It's GM so it might be a purple wire, I don't remember, I can check tomorrow.
It's GM so it might be a purple wire, I don't remember, I can check tomorrow.
I just had an odd problem on mine, Don't know if it was effecting hot starting or not, but in theory it could have. One of the hot wires into the plug that connects through the firewall wasn't secured in the plug properly and would push out when plugged in. So while everything would work I was getting all sorts of weird things happening.