PARTIAL Frame off
I found some rust in the tipical birdcage connection... Year 1969
It's not so bad but I want to fix it and stop the rust.
For do this I thought to work from inside trailing arms connection and from the top. I don't want to take the body off but I tought to lift just the rear of the body, just 10-15 inches... For do that I plan to disconnect the 8 bolds, bumpers, pedals and something else but it should be easier than disconnect everything and take the body off.
I adopted this way when I made body lift in my Jeep (lifting rear and front separately) , but I don't know if it's possible with the Corvette...
What do you think? Any experience like this?
Thanks a lot
Filippo
I certainly understand your desire to not want to let things get out of hand.
But, I don't see how you can "just lift the rear of the body, just 10" to 15" ".
In order for ANY part of the body to be lifted off the frame, the body really must come 'straight up'. You might raise just the front or rear a couple of inches but not that far.
Lifting the body straight up will give you access to any part of the frame and the lower parts of the hinge and lock pillars and rocker channels that you find necessary to do your repairs.
You'll have to decide how to support the body in it's raised position while you work on it and the frame.
There are threads about the means folks use to lift the body and how they support it. What they do often depends on the space they have, their budget for 'equipment', and their skills.
Seeing some pictures of the rust you're facing may help folks give you some suggestions on how to proceed.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Jun 17, 2016 at 08:27 AM.
From the pictures it appears you have some very serious rust issues to deal with.
There are folks with much more experience dealing with rusty frames and birdcages than I, but I can't imagine doing these repairs in a first class manner without having the body completely clear of the frame.
I'm sure there will continue to be more opinions and suggestions as members see your posts and photos.
I believe you have a good bit of work in front of you!
Regards,
Alan
When tommy pulled my body I do not believe that trying to do one end will even work you would still have to disconnect all it would take to just lift the full body and my 69 had a rusted out # 3 bird cage body mount tommy also fixed, ( pictures in my bats build thread )
I guess you have to decide if you dig the car and plan to keep it and use it enough to get your money back, if so then bite the bullet and pull the body, you really can't fix it correctly with the body on...
Sorry to be such a buzz kill....
Last edited by The13Bats; Jun 17, 2016 at 06:44 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
sorry,My wife pushed me to hire this last chassis swap on our 69 tommy said, oh, I can do that in a week or less, 9 months and counting later it took me threatening to get law and osha involved for him to allow me to even come get my car unfinished.
It depends on how fast you work, the damage that needs repair the cash flow,
I really do not know a good baseline...didn't that one shop do it in 48 hours some here are into weeks others into years...I guess how long is more up to you.
Last edited by The13Bats; Jun 17, 2016 at 09:26 PM.
Wes
I think getting the body up and off the chassis is really the most straight forward part of the rust situation facing you. Have you taken a look to see if the rust seen in the pictures you posted has progressed in to the birdcage rocker channel above body mount #3?
It appears to me that it will take someone with very good welding skills to do the repair and the decision will need to be made to have him fabricate the steel he needs or buy the frame repair sections that will be needed that are available from some of the Corvette parts vendors.
I don't think you'll have the information necessary to decide how to proceed until the body is off the frame and you can assess the full extent of the frame rust damage.
Regards,
Alan
I found some rust in the tipical birdcage connection... Year 1969
It's not so bad but I want to fix it and stop the rust.
For do this I thought to work from inside trailing arms connection and from the top. I don't want to take the body off but I tought to lift just the rear of the body, just 10-15 inches... For do that I plan to disconnect the 8 bolds, bumpers, pedals and something else but it should be easier than disconnect everything and take the body off.
I adopted this way when I made body lift in my Jeep (lifting rear and front separately) , but I don't know if it's possible with the Corvette...
What do you think? Any experience like this?
Thanks a lot
Filippo
You definitely need to lift body off .there are repair kits to fix these rusty places .That area is critical .
Wes
Repair kit
Where trailing arm goes in
This outside doubler cost $70
Maybe the best way is by hsnd with some people... How much could be the body weight?
Thanks again
Maybe the best way is by hsnd with some people... How much could be the body weight?
Thanks again
I dont have any help so this is what I do I would guess weighs 475 lbs
The weight of the body really depends on how much of it is disassembled.
A completely empty 68-72 body…. one with the bumpers and brackets removed, complete interior removal, empty door shells, and even no glass, STILL weights 'about' 750 pounds. So it's likely you'll be lifting a good deal more than that.
Most people who lift it by 'hand' say having about 6 'lifters' is necessary to be safe, and it's best to have another person or 2 on hand to guide them, move the chassis out of position, and move the dolly you're going to put the body on into place.
It's not a difficult job but does take some planning and muscle.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Jun 20, 2016 at 08:38 AM.























