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Sometime they can be a real challenge. They are much harder than your typical driveshaft joints. You need a big vice or even better, an arbor press. Plan a whole morning and be sure to use Spicer nongreasable U-joints. The discount cheapies will only last a few weeks in the halfshaft application. There were a lot of threads about failures of Brute force joints. Have fun :D :D
You may need access to a hydraulic press to do the job right. A machine shop can pop them out for you. I used TRW U-joints with zerk fittings and have had no problems. Some swear by the solid joints but I like to be able to lube the car periodically... and have never seen anyone break a TRW. :cheers:
I just did the job on saturday. I used a ball joint press to put the u-joints in and out. I just put the ball joint press in the vise and it made it alot easier to work with. I used the u-joints with out the zerk fittings and packed the caps with synthetic high temp grease. I also change the u-joints in the drive shaft and it took most of the day. While you have the axle shafts out its a good idea to lube the rear wheel bearings. Take your time its worth the effort.
I'm having the same problem with mine. I cant seem to break the 4 bolts on the flange loose. I'm thinking about just taking it to a shop. They estimated labor at $150 each side, Does this sounds reasonable? I really dont want to spend all that dough but unless anybody has any good ideas on getting them loose without torching them off and burning up my bearings, it doesnt seem i have a choice.
~Christian
The easiest way to do the u-joints is to "cut" them out with a torch. I've done over 4 sets of half shafts and drive shafts. It usually takes about 10mins or so to do a set. I cut the "X" of the u-joint out, it falls to the ground, I rotate the shafts and "pop" out the end caps(which picked up heat from torching the middle of the joint)with a large blunt-ended punch. I was shown this method years ago and it's great!!!
Paul knows the easy way. If you use a press to remove them you will deform the flanged end. It is very weak and the only way I would press them and I did it tha way the first time is to make a plate that bolts to the flange to protect it.
Cutting is effortless and it doesn't involve force. I cut the X out with a torch then use a air chissel to walk the caps out. I then use a small flapper wheel and polish the yoke, I debur everthing, check the grooves then hold the shaft in a vise and with a brass hammer and well lubed ujoint walk the caps on with little taps from the brass hammer. Again no force.
$150 per side seems a rip off since both Paul and I can do a side in like he said 10 minutes.
Guys really watch the press bit and extreme force. The yokes do bend easily, especially the flange.
I'm having the same problem with mine. I cant seem to break the 4 bolts on the flange loose. I'm thinking about just taking it to a shop. They estimated labor at $150 each side, Does this sounds reasonable? I really dont want to spend all that dough but unless anybody has any good ideas on getting them loose without torching them off and burning up my bearings, it doesnt seem i have a choice.
~Christian
[Modified by nitrocharger, 12:40 AM 9/10/2002]
I assume that price includes the removal and reinstallation if the half-shaft and not just the U-joints - My local Driveline shop will R&R the ujoints on a shaft that I bring him for $25 (I provide the U-joints) however he is the best local source for Spicer so I let him provide the U-joints on the last one I did.
Saying that brute force joints will only last a few weeks is total :bs unless you are hooking them up with a huge big block and slicks - in which case any u-joint may give up the ghost. I'm well into 1 year with one half shaft and over 2 on the driveshaft.
I do prefer spicers - they are beefier, but the Brute force joints are fine.
Buy new setup from Zip.........139 bucks half shaft new, assembled with flange & new joints.......made in USA why bother fixin old stuff........put on my big/block 66........worked for me........... :seeya Did it myself took one saturday to put on my 1966......................
[Modified by StrayDog, 11:46 AM 9/10/2002]
[Modified by StrayDog, 11:47 AM 9/10/2002] :smash:
This is probably #1 on my PITB list of jobs I've done on my Corvette. Even the Heater Core is below this one.
Now, I didn't have a press (and I didn't know of Paul's torch trick), so I removed the U-joints with a hammer and drift pin :rolleyes: Not the best method.
I was lucky and after a full day (driveshaft U-joints took about 30 minutes, the rest of the time was for the halfshafts) and a half, everything was back together.
Could you be a little more detailed about how I would go about CUTTING them out with the torches? Thsi sounds like the way to go... :smash: :crazy:
dewayne, I have two 6"X6"X3' pieces of wood that I lay the driveshaft or halfshaft on with about eight inches of the shaft with the joint overhanging. I have the "cups"(endcaps) horizontal, heat the "X' of the joint cherry red, blow the molten metal through til the "X" of the u-joint just drops out, then rotate shaft one way and quickly tap out one cup with large blunt end chisel, when first cup is out, quickly rotate shaft to where the other cup is vertical, then also tap out with same large blunt end chisel. Repeat all these steps until every joint is out(usually about 15-20mins for all six), let every thing cool, clean ends, re-assemble the new joints in the shafts, re-install in car!!! Could'nt be easier :yesnod:
I finally got both halfshafts and ujoints out today. Liquid wrench pretty much did the trick. I laid the shafts on a vise and tapped the u joints right out. I'm really surprised it worked this easy. Time to drink some brew and celebrate! [IMG][/IMG] :cheers: