I just learned this weekend that the loud squeal coming from the front of my 1982 Vette was in fact a spun bearing on the number 1-2 journal. There may be others but no need to go further at this point. I have been searching Jegs and Summit and such and there don't seem to be a crank for this car listed. Is there something special about this year that makes it harder to find? What kind of things should I be looking for?

 

Nothing special about a gen1 2 piece seal 350 crank that would make your 82 any different. Its a regular gen1 longblock... it was the induction system that was different. any crank like this one would work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-SCAT-383...FUbKtl&vxp=mtr

You need a 2 piece main seal crank

 

That's what I thought going into this but wasn't sure if some hub or journal that I wasn't thinking of was a bit different in some way. It is my moms car and I was just hoping to get it to run for her as she doesn't need anything high performance.

Thanks for the link, Appreciate it. And regarding the ebay listing you supplied, was this a suggested manufacturer or just showing me what I should be looking for? She currently has a 350 in it. Wouldn't a 383 have a different stroke?

 

Yeah, you can't use a 383 crank, you need one for a 350.

Before you buy one, take the engine apart. It's possible that your crank can be ground and reused. A machine shop will advise you on what you need to do.

 

A 383 would have a longer stroke. You might check with a local machine shop and see if they have a used crank for sale, if it's only a driver.

 

Don't forget you're going to need at least two rods also.

JIM

 

At least, rest to be determined!

 

I have an almost complete 350" motor (minus accessories) out of an `80 Corvette I`m willing to sell cheap, if you or anyone else is interested send a PM, located at the Illinois/Wisconsin state line

 

Fortunately you are looking for the most common crank on the planet. Just a common 350 cast 2 pc seal crank. Although a squeal (to me) is not indicative of spun bearings. Who told you that was the case?

 

The proof was in the pan. This is what the bearing looks like.

 

This is your best option, or some other replacement engine. It will be cheaper and FAR less complicated than rebuilding the existing engine.

 

This would probably be the least expensive and quickest fix.

 

There's going to be metal everywhere in that engine. Hot tank, a good scrubbing inside and out and another trip to the hot tank. I'd want to pull the cam bearings and all of the oil galley plugs to make sure I got it clean.

 

been there done that, friends 350 , I would go with a GM crate 350. Can not build for this price + guarantee ..

I would go with a GM ZZ6, price and quality can't be matched for the price...

Chevrolet Performance ZZ6 Base 350ci/405HP Engine

Chevrolet Performance

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Chevrolet Performance's ZZ6 delivers more power than any 350 Small-Block ever installed in a production vehicle. Rated at 405 horsepower and 406 lb.-ft. of torque, it derives its range-topping performance from unique, lightweight aluminum cylinder heads that enable optimal airflow at high rpm.

The cylinder head casting is based on the proven Fast Burn design, with large intake runners and 2.00/1.55-inch valves. Beehive-style valve springs deliver greater high-rpm performance and durability. Their egg-shaped profiles have less reciprocating mass in motion, require less spring pressure for greater valve control and handle valvetrain stresses more efficiently. They allow the ZZ6 to rev higher to make the most of every cubic inch of air drawn through it.

The ZZ6 also uses an aggressive hydraulic roller camshaft that supports the engine's high-rpm airflow capability while maintaining excellent low-speed drivability. This 'Base' crate engine kit includes the intake manifold, distributor, water pump, harmonic damper and flexplate - and the distinctive, racing-inspired valve covers that distinguish this crate engine as the latest in the ZZ legacy!
ZZ6 BASE TECH SPECS: •Engine Type: Chevy Small-Block V-8
•Displacement: 350ci
•Bore x Stroke: 4.000'' x 3.480''
•Block: Cast-iron with four-bolt main caps
•Crankshaft: Forged steel, 1-piece rear main seal
•Connecting Rods: Forged powder metal
•Pistons: Hypereutectic aluminum
•Camshaft Type: Hydraulic roller
•Camshaft Lift: .474'' intake / .510'' exhaust
•Camshaft Duration (@.050 in.): 208° intake / 221° exhaust
•Cylinder Heads: 'Fast Burn' aluminum, 62cc combustion chambers
•Valve Size: 2.000'' intake / 1.550'' exhaust
•Compression Ratio: 9.72:1
•Rocker Arms: Aluminum roller style
•Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
•Distributor: HEI type
•Intake Manifold: Single plane aluminum
•Water Pump: Cast-iron, long-style
•Flexplate: 12.75'' diameter, 153-tooth
•Recommended Fuel: Premium pump
•Ignition Timing: 36° Total @ 4000 rpm
•Maximum Recommended RPM: 5800
•Balanced: External

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Chevrolet Performance 19351532K
Chevrolet Performance ZZ6 Base 350ci/405HP Engine

ZZ6 Base 350ci Engine Kit•405 HP @ 5600 RPM
•406 ft/lbs Torque @ 4600 RPM
Includes:
•ZZ6 Engine
•770cfm Carb & Carb Studs
•80gph Fuel Pump, Mount Plate, Pump Pushrod
•Fuel Lines
•8.0mm Spark Plug Wires
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$7,176.94


Chevrolet Performance 19351532

Chevrolet Performance ZZ6 Base 350ci/405HP Engine

ZZ6 Base 350ci Engine•405 HP @ 5600 RPM
•406 ft/lbs Torque @ 4600 RPM
View Details


$5,641.86

I would go with the base @ $5641....

 

Just keep in mind that you have options.
If you dont mind losing time to learn and have patience you can build a comparable motor for under 2 grand buying parts on places like craigslist. I often see entire engines going for around 3-3k that are still in the car or have just been pulled for an upgrade or BB project... Just another optional route to go depending on budget.

I have 8k invested in my car because I have a lot of projects going on in my life and thats just the way it is... That 8k bought me the car, new interior, tunes and the engine I built along with new sidepipes, wheels and paint... spending 6k on a 350 engine block I drove home for less than 3 just wasnt easily justifiable but then again I WANTED to learn more about my car and do the work myself.. Everyones situation is different. If I had a busier lifestyle with more money and less time then I likely would have gone a completely different route.

 

Is it 'numbers matching'? Does that matter to you?
Something to consider when thikning of replacing the engine.

 

At Summit pick "Engines & Components". On the new page pick "Crankshafts". On the next new page scroll down and under Engine pick "Chevrolet" and "Small Block Gen I" and "5.7L/350". Click results and on the next page click the show all and pick your year.

The main things you are looking for is 350 engine and a 2-piece rear seal. Since you're not looking for a performance improvement, almost any crank meeting those 2 requirements will work for you.

I would call your local machine shops. One of them likely deals in rebuilt engines and could get you a 350 short block for around $600-$700. You use it as the base to add all your other engine parts to. It won't be anything special performance wise but you're not looking for any kind of performance improvement. With a crank being $190+, it'd be tough to rebuild what you have cheaper.

 

Read the second paragraph 4 times and don't have a clue what you are trying to get across.

 

That the OP doesnt need a large budget to fix his car. Some people here come from a vastly different place financially than others and when a crank that one could otherwise pick up on craiglist for $50 fails others try to convince him to spend 6 grand just for a longblock which could very well be more than the car is worth....
The guy has options and He could build a 400hp motor for a lot less depending on his situation. I got a little longwinded explaining mine so the naysayers who comes along with an antagonistic attitude try to say it cant be done Ive already pointed it it can and has. This is a 200hp corvette engine the op is talking about... Right away the suggestions are that its shot and he should buy a 400hp longlock only to choke it down to 200-230hp with the crossfire setup... or better yet spend thousands more to replace that? I dont see where the OP asked about more power or a new engine.

His engine may not be trashed at this point. When I bought the longblock I used to built my engine and stripped it down I found the bearings and crank were grooved with trash from a broken piston ring in them which had been repaired by a large local machine shop who did a shoddy job... I bought a $200 scat crank, cleaned the block with a hose then brake cleaner, replaced the bearings and plastiguaged them and assembled the engine. That was a few thousand miles ago and the engine runs great with no noises or metal in the oil.

 

I don't think that its all that important. It's my mom's baby and she just wants to get some more drive time in it before she can't get in and out of it. I was surprised to find out that it was only a 2 bolt main, though.