- I could totally believe that, having performed plenty of aftersales analysis for these guys and most other brands....
idle tick turns into clack; collapsed lifter?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Sunrise FL
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
GM also states that replacing lifters and not cam is totally acceptable. And, BTW, my old lifters look new, cam has only 3000 miles on it. So, while I would like to do both, I'll take my chances, as I don't have the muscle or resource to pull the engine again.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Yep, some digging shows the same procedure as if a new cam. Moly cam lube is on the way, I'll pull them out and do it right. I'm sure she'll start first time, but I will overhaul carb, fuel line etc to make sure. Man, break-in is such an apprehensive time!
GM also states that replacing lifters and not cam is totally acceptable. And, BTW, my old lifters look new, cam has only 3000 miles on it. So, while I would like to do both, I'll take my chances, as I don't have the muscle or resource to pull the engine again.
GM also states that replacing lifters and not cam is totally acceptable. And, BTW, my old lifters look new, cam has only 3000 miles on it. So, while I would like to do both, I'll take my chances, as I don't have the muscle or resource to pull the engine again.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
And yes, single coil with flat surge spring.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: League City Tx
I've thrown new lifters on old cams several times through the years, you just have to follow a new cam break in procedure, use the proper additives, it will be fine. They actually seem to break in easier then way then using a new cam honestly. This is assuming the old cam is 100% healthy and in spec.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
I've thrown new lifters on old cams several times through the years, you just have to follow a new cam break in procedure, use the proper additives, it will be fine. They actually seem to break in easier then way then using a new cam honestly. This is assuming the old cam is 100% healthy and in spec.
Appreciate the encouragement, cheers.
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
Resolution
I finally manned up to the start-2000-RPM-30-minute madness with the help of my lovely fiancee. I am happy to report that I have an intact cam, and replacement of either my lifters or fuel pump resolved the problem, including an intermittent tick I have had since my rebuild 8 years ago, so suspect I have had a bum lifter since then.
So, no issues with a used cam and new lifters if you follow due process. One piece of advice that may have helped was to moly lube the foot of the lifter and only oil the body, so the galleries are kept clog-free from the assembly lube.
Phew! Lots of
afterwards.
So, no issues with a used cam and new lifters if you follow due process. One piece of advice that may have helped was to moly lube the foot of the lifter and only oil the body, so the galleries are kept clog-free from the assembly lube.
Phew! Lots of
afterwards.
Last edited by spinadog; Jun 17, 2017 at 05:01 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Poway CA
Hi Spinadog-
Congratulations on your success!
I am going through the exact same thing you are and would like to ask you a few questions about your symptoms. I have a cylinder that is ticking and has a lower compression (180 psi as opposed to the others at 210 psi). I have also had a slightly wobbly vacuum needle, not a drastic jump around like a sticky valve would suggest, but within a inch of low and high which could not be corrected by idle mixture screws. After pulling the intake, the pushrods and lifters all look good and do not compress by pushing hard on the pushrod. The lift is close to what it should be with a rough measurement and the camshaft does not appear to be worn in any abnormal way. I broke in my Schneider cam and new lifters with moly about 15,000 miles ago but have not paid attention to the loss of zinc until just recently (so much debate over that in itself).
My question is about any symptoms you may have observed with compression and vacuum when you first started checking into the ticking sound. Mine noise has been fairly slight ticking but clearly associated with #3 cylinder- it never turned into loud clacking.
Thanks for anything else that you might share.
Kirk
Congratulations on your success!
I am going through the exact same thing you are and would like to ask you a few questions about your symptoms. I have a cylinder that is ticking and has a lower compression (180 psi as opposed to the others at 210 psi). I have also had a slightly wobbly vacuum needle, not a drastic jump around like a sticky valve would suggest, but within a inch of low and high which could not be corrected by idle mixture screws. After pulling the intake, the pushrods and lifters all look good and do not compress by pushing hard on the pushrod. The lift is close to what it should be with a rough measurement and the camshaft does not appear to be worn in any abnormal way. I broke in my Schneider cam and new lifters with moly about 15,000 miles ago but have not paid attention to the loss of zinc until just recently (so much debate over that in itself).
My question is about any symptoms you may have observed with compression and vacuum when you first started checking into the ticking sound. Mine noise has been fairly slight ticking but clearly associated with #3 cylinder- it never turned into loud clacking.
Thanks for anything else that you might share.
Kirk
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
Hi Kirk, it's odd you mention vacuum. I just checked yesterday and I am pulling a steady 19", compared to a fluttering 18" beforehand. I attribute that to a better sealed intake rather than any lifter replacement.
I had an intermittent ticking somewhere around #6 since my engine rebuild that now appears to have gone - but I can't tell if that was lifter or fuel pump.
One thing I certainly wish I had done first was change the fuel pump first rather than panic and yank the intake. But I think it seems for the better as a result of this recent repair.
If the weather would get better, I may actually drive and see how she's feeling. So far, a little boggy off the line, so accel. pump or more timing tweaks.
I had an intermittent ticking somewhere around #6 since my engine rebuild that now appears to have gone - but I can't tell if that was lifter or fuel pump.
One thing I certainly wish I had done first was change the fuel pump first rather than panic and yank the intake. But I think it seems for the better as a result of this recent repair.
If the weather would get better, I may actually drive and see how she's feeling. So far, a little boggy off the line, so accel. pump or more timing tweaks.