C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

idle tick turns into clack; collapsed lifter?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-27-2017, 10:03 AM
  #21  
mikem350
Melting Slicks
 
mikem350's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Sunrise FL
Posts: 3,101
Received 95 Likes on 92 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by TimAT
New lifters on a used cam makes me nervous. A lot.
Use assembly lube, not just oil! AND go thru full break in procedure, make sure you can start the engine on first try!
The following users liked this post:
spinadog (04-27-2017)
Old 04-27-2017, 12:29 PM
  #22  
spinadog
Pro
Thread Starter
 
spinadog's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Bloomfield Hills MI
Posts: 538
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by mikem350
Use assembly lube, not just oil! AND go thru full break in procedure, make sure you can start the engine on first try!
Yep, some digging shows the same procedure as if a new cam. Moly cam lube is on the way, I'll pull them out and do it right. I'm sure she'll start first time, but I will overhaul carb, fuel line etc to make sure. Man, break-in is such an apprehensive time!

GM also states that replacing lifters and not cam is totally acceptable. And, BTW, my old lifters look new, cam has only 3000 miles on it. So, while I would like to do both, I'll take my chances, as I don't have the muscle or resource to pull the engine again.

Old 04-27-2017, 06:01 PM
  #23  
jersey68l36
Racer
 
jersey68l36's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2002
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts

Default

Do you have the resources to switch to lighter valve springs on that bank? You did mention they are single coil. Single spring along with a flat surge spring as used by GM on the low perf big blocks?
Old 04-27-2017, 11:00 PM
  #24  
TimAT
Le Mans Master
 
TimAT's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Gladstone MO
Posts: 7,121
Received 424 Likes on 385 Posts
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019

Default

Originally Posted by spinadog
Yep, some digging shows the same procedure as if a new cam. Moly cam lube is on the way, I'll pull them out and do it right. I'm sure she'll start first time, but I will overhaul carb, fuel line etc to make sure. Man, break-in is such an apprehensive time!

GM also states that replacing lifters and not cam is totally acceptable. And, BTW, my old lifters look new, cam has only 3000 miles on it. So, while I would like to do both, I'll take my chances, as I don't have the muscle or resource to pull the engine again.

GM Says that because of warranty cost.
Old 04-28-2017, 09:21 AM
  #25  
spinadog
Pro
Thread Starter
 
spinadog's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Bloomfield Hills MI
Posts: 538
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jersey68l36
Do you have the resources to switch to lighter valve springs on that bank? You did mention they are single coil. Single spring along with a flat surge spring as used by GM on the low perf big blocks?
Unfortunately, I do not. I gather that could help alleviate load during break in?

And yes, single coil with flat surge spring.
Old 04-28-2017, 10:06 AM
  #26  
ajrothm
Le Mans Master
 
ajrothm's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2006
Location: League City Tx
Posts: 9,961
Received 1,095 Likes on 746 Posts

Default

I've thrown new lifters on old cams several times through the years, you just have to follow a new cam break in procedure, use the proper additives, it will be fine. They actually seem to break in easier then way then using a new cam honestly. This is assuming the old cam is 100% healthy and in spec.
The following users liked this post:
spinadog (04-28-2017)
Old 04-28-2017, 11:35 AM
  #27  
spinadog
Pro
Thread Starter
 
spinadog's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Bloomfield Hills MI
Posts: 538
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ajrothm
I've thrown new lifters on old cams several times through the years, you just have to follow a new cam break in procedure, use the proper additives, it will be fine. They actually seem to break in easier then way then using a new cam honestly. This is assuming the old cam is 100% healthy and in spec.
The cam is in unbelievably good shape, only 3000 miles, as stated - the lobes look new. ZDDP oils and additive used 100% all the time. Oil changed each 1000 miles or annually. The lifters all looked excellent, hard to tell they had been running on the cam.

Appreciate the encouragement, cheers.
Old 04-28-2017, 11:37 AM
  #28  
spinadog
Pro
Thread Starter
 
spinadog's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Bloomfield Hills MI
Posts: 538
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by TimAT
GM Says that because of warranty cost.
- I could totally believe that, having performed plenty of aftersales analysis for these guys and most other brands....
Old 06-17-2017, 05:01 PM
  #29  
spinadog
Pro
Thread Starter
 
spinadog's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Bloomfield Hills MI
Posts: 538
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default Resolution

I finally manned up to the start-2000-RPM-30-minute madness with the help of my lovely fiancee. I am happy to report that I have an intact cam, and replacement of either my lifters or fuel pump resolved the problem, including an intermittent tick I have had since my rebuild 8 years ago, so suspect I have had a bum lifter since then.

So, no issues with a used cam and new lifters if you follow due process. One piece of advice that may have helped was to moly lube the foot of the lifter and only oil the body, so the galleries are kept clog-free from the assembly lube.

Phew! Lots of afterwards.

Last edited by spinadog; 06-17-2017 at 05:01 PM.
Old 06-17-2017, 06:08 PM
  #30  
Kirk H
Instructor
 
Kirk H's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2016
Location: Poway CA
Posts: 183
Received 36 Likes on 31 Posts
Default

Hi Spinadog-
Congratulations on your success!
I am going through the exact same thing you are and would like to ask you a few questions about your symptoms. I have a cylinder that is ticking and has a lower compression (180 psi as opposed to the others at 210 psi). I have also had a slightly wobbly vacuum needle, not a drastic jump around like a sticky valve would suggest, but within a inch of low and high which could not be corrected by idle mixture screws. After pulling the intake, the pushrods and lifters all look good and do not compress by pushing hard on the pushrod. The lift is close to what it should be with a rough measurement and the camshaft does not appear to be worn in any abnormal way. I broke in my Schneider cam and new lifters with moly about 15,000 miles ago but have not paid attention to the loss of zinc until just recently (so much debate over that in itself).
My question is about any symptoms you may have observed with compression and vacuum when you first started checking into the ticking sound. Mine noise has been fairly slight ticking but clearly associated with #3 cylinder- it never turned into loud clacking.
Thanks for anything else that you might share.
Kirk
Old 06-18-2017, 02:48 PM
  #31  
spinadog
Pro
Thread Starter
 
spinadog's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Bloomfield Hills MI
Posts: 538
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Hi Kirk, it's odd you mention vacuum. I just checked yesterday and I am pulling a steady 19", compared to a fluttering 18" beforehand. I attribute that to a better sealed intake rather than any lifter replacement.

I had an intermittent ticking somewhere around #6 since my engine rebuild that now appears to have gone - but I can't tell if that was lifter or fuel pump.

One thing I certainly wish I had done first was change the fuel pump first rather than panic and yank the intake. But I think it seems for the better as a result of this recent repair.

If the weather would get better, I may actually drive and see how she's feeling. So far, a little boggy off the line, so accel. pump or more timing tweaks.



Quick Reply: idle tick turns into clack; collapsed lifter?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:02 AM.