kanvasman

Things seem quiet so I thought it would be a good time to start the evening off. I am putting a 200r4 behind an l98 TPI engine into my 78 SA. The question has come up which is better/easier to disconnect the computer and use a manual lock up switch set up, an internal pressure lock up set up or just leave it stock and let the computer take care of it. I've been doing a lot of searches lately and am only confusing myself more. But that doesn't take much. Thanks for the help.

cardo0

I believe the 200R4 is a non-computer trans unless u install an aftermarket controller. And I'm not sure all the options for TCC lock up no a 200R4 but the 700R4 can bet set up for o/d l/u only or l/u in 2nd & 3rd also mechanically/automatically - refer to the shift kit directions. Or it can be switch by u manually.

I guess u have to decide whether u want l/u in 2nd & 3rd and whether u want to switch it manually. But u need to decide before u put it back together.

spikebot 81

Many ways to set up the lock up for the 2004r. I never liked the way the original set up was with my 85 el camino. Lock up in 2nd and 3rd always seemed to make the engine lug at times, not to mention delays unlocking during down shifts. When the trans was installed in my 81 I decided to go with a 1 wire system. Installed a normally open pleasure switch in the 4th gear port so lockup only happens at freeway speeds in 4th gear. Also installed a manual switch on the center console in place of the rear defrost switch location. I can use 4th gear for normal driving and turn on the lock up when up to speed on long trips. Very happy with this set up and has work flawless for 3 years

kanvasman

Good info guys. I hadn't thought about the non computer OEM set up. And I am leaning towards what you have Mr SPike. The one wire on the 4th gear port. And I like the idea of the manualswitch JUST IN CASE. I just don't want to have to explain to anyone else driving the car ( if you look closely you can read the word WIFE between the lines) how to use the switch all the time. Thanks to you both.

lionelhutz

Your TPI ECM will do a much better job at controlling the TCC then any manual method. It will only lock the TCC above a certain speed and it will unlock the TCC with throttle usage.

If you have been tuning it or will tune it then you can set it up even better to suit your driving.

bluedawg

I have a 700r4 wnd am not for sure if the lick up mechanism is the same, but I used the painless kit which locks it up in fourth. Sometimes I wish it'd lock up at a mph(only when the Arabs are being stingy with crude), but for the most part am happy with the fourth gear lock up.

avner

I used on my 200R4 the B&M Converter Lockup Controls 70244.
You decide in what speed it will lock up and you don't need look for it any more.
Avner

edavis31052

Bumping an old thread back up and referencing lionelhutz's comment about the ECM controlling TCC lock up. I'm returning a 1982 CE to OEM spec after a previous owner swapped the 700R4 with a Turbo350. The TCC is presently done via a switch on the console and I want to be as automatic.

My question is where does the ECM receive the speed input for TCC solenoid activation? Cruise control unit maybe since this car uses a speedo cable vs. a speed sensor?

Anybody know?

Thx!

JohnTN1946

Going back to the thought of controlling the 2004R. For non-computer control, the transmission needs 12v power to the correct tab on the driver's side of the transmission to activate the lockup solenoid. Tap into a hot ignition source and then there are a number of "switches" you can put in the electrical path between the hot source and the solenoid. If any one of these switches is "off" the lockup cannot occur, or will disconnect if previously in lockup mode, making the function essentially automatic.

1. Toggle switch (maybe $7), normally ON but can be switched to OFF to prevent any lockup

2. Normally closed connection on brake switch, interupts lockup when brake is applied

3. Vacuum switch in engine compartment ($35) that interrupts circuit in low vacuum conditions

4. 4th gear switch so lockup can only occur in 4th gear

5. Final connection to solenoid power on drivers side of transmission case

These are the minimum basics for a control circuit. But for further control an Adjustable RPM switch ($50) can be included in the circuit to only allow lockup above a specified rpm point. This switch can also have a time delay feature to prevent lockup cycling if driving conditions have vacuum very near the vacuum switch set point.

There are kits that contain some of these features. The TCI kit ($92) does not contain anything to limit lockup to engine or ground speed above a certain point.

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/2004r-700r...iring-kithtml/

The B&M kit ($205) has a controller to select a certain ground speed to allow lockup.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...FUwbgQodcxAELA

Original configurations might have also contained switches that checked transmission fluid temp and/or engine coolant temp.

John

7T1vette

Leave your computer hooked up to manage the lockup clutch during normal driving; but put a 'kill' switch in the power line for trans lockup so that you can manually turn it off when you do not want it to come on. Best of both worlds....

kanvasman

Well my transmission guy is almost done rebuilding it so now I have to get serious about this. I have an ecu from a TPI with an auto trans, so thanks 7T1vette for my answer, let the ecu handle it most of th time and put a kill switch in JUST IN CASE. Kind of like the TOW switch in my truck.