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Looking for any feed back on this mounting location for the MSD 6a box. This project is a 454 HO swap in a 1974.
I put a lot of time in the research for the best spot where it would have airflow, reduce any radio interference and be secure.
I used the rubber mounted bracket for the 6a and a $4 piece of 18 gage steel bought at Lowes, which I found the exact size I needed, and eight bolts. I had to extend all the wires and purchased the plug extension for the trigger wires.
I included photos maybe to help anybody else who might be scratching their heads on where to mount this big box.
In addition I documented this entire project and would more then happy to pass my experiences
One other thing, any suggestions on where to grab the switched 12 volts to turn on the box . I put in a mini starter and there is no posts on the starter. The ignition wire is single wire push on connector Plus I believe I read that that ignition wire my not be a full 12 volts.
That's an interesting spot. A little more exposed to road spray than I'd like, but might be well sheltered by the reservoir. Certainly will have good cooling airflow at that spot.
That's where I mounted mine. I don't drive in the rain, and even if I do, I don't tail gate people who are kicking up tons of spray. Great spot, very very hidden.
It is better to keep the wires as short as possible to avoid interference problems. Heat is not that much of a problem, but keep it away from hot exhaust.
Mine has been mounted out in front of the radiator for a number of years now. I used clear silicone on all the possible water entrance points (seams, wire entrances, etc...). It's never failed me to date.
Call me crazy, but I just mounted mine behind the passenger side dash on my 68. Tons of room behind it and running a big block with side pipes blocks any radio noise anyway.
From what I remember from the directions, you need a switched 12V+ wire to turn it on. I just used the 12V+ wire from the original harness to the coil wire as it is a switched 12V+. This wire was eliminated in the install of the box anyway. You can also use the white wire coming off the box and wire it to a switched ground somewhere in your car to make a hidden kill switch. It won't stop a tow truck, but no one will ever be able to hot wire it.
From what I remember from the directions, you need a switched 12V+ wire to turn it on. I just used the 12V+ wire from the original harness to the coil wire as it is a switched 12V+. This wire was eliminated in the install of the box anyway. You can also use the white wire coming off the box and wire it to a switched ground somewhere in your car to make a hidden kill switch. It won't stop a tow truck, but no one will ever be able to hot wire it.
I would echo others...probably not the first place I'd mount the box. There are others that are far more protected and convenient to the distributor without having a bunch of wires pass around hot exhaust.
I mounted mine behind the passenger wheel-well. I bent some 3/32" x 1/2" aluminum strip to make a very cozy set of mounting brackets.
I've included a couple of other photos of the wire brackets I made to make certain the wires staked off my headers, as well as my coil mount.
All has worked perfectly for a few years and counting.
I would echo others...probably not the first place I'd mount the box. There are others that are far more protected and convenient to the distributor without having a bunch of wires pass around hot exhaust.
Hot exhaust? You'd have to screw up real bad to get the wires to come close to hot exhaust. Mine basically follows the same route that the headlamp hoses do to get back to the distributor.
As for the first place, yes, it was the first place and the ONLY place I could find, not to mention it gets much better cooling air than any of the places in the engine compartment. I was more concerned about it impacting cooling flow than anything else.
That said, I'm running a 78 in full emissions trim plus all of the original plastic bottles - meaning none of the places I've seen in this thread would entertain an MSD box. If one of them were an option, I would have considered it.
You'd have to screw up real bad to get the wires to come close to hot exhaust.
Well...dunno what to say. With my "up and over" wire configuration, it didn't take much to roast the hell out of my #8 wire on the immediately adjacent Hooker header. That is #1 and #3 pictured in the close up. The header tubes on the passenger's bank are "pinched" quite a bit closer to the engine since the engine is off center.
If others live their lives without any problems, it must be through the right combination of luck and skill. Both of which I sorely lack.
Last edited by keithinspace; Jul 19, 2016 at 11:34 AM.
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