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Using some inward force, the alignment looks acceptable for this car.
Now the latching mechanism has no adjustable position that I can see.
And my Door Striker Anchor is adjusted as far inward (left) as possible.
so the installed Striker is as far inward as possible.
But when it comes to alignment after closing the door; ugly.
The Door's leading edge gap is about as good as I can get it (looks better than the picture shows). And I have new weather stripping installed throughout the entire car.
So my question is: What is there left to do so as to get the door to closed more?
Hi C2,
Unless there's more 'room' in the 'cage' that holds the striker nut filing the fiberglass won't help.
If you but a small rod in the nut can you push it to the center of the car at all?
What is allowing the rear of the door to be 'up' in the first picture but causing it to be 'down' in the fifth picture.
Is there movement in the hinges.
Regards,
Alan
as Alan mentioned the limiting factor is not the fiberglass hole,
the plate with threaded striker hole, floats inside a metal cage,
if your at the end of the cage you cannot move the threaded Hole further inward.
1. option is to shim the front of the door outward, which should kick the read edge in some.
but that will affect your alignment with front fender.
2. option build up the rear quarter to match the door. this is probable your best option.
good luck,
3. Requires major surgery to access the Striker cage, but if you did, .. then you could move it inward.
Hi C2,
Unless there's more 'room' in the 'cage' that holds the striker nut filing the fiberglass won't help.
If you but a small rod in the nut can you push it to the center of the car at all?
What is allowing the rear of the door to be 'up' in the first picture but causing it to be 'down' in the fifth picture.
Is there movement in the hinges.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan.
Yeah that floating "nut" within it's holder is as far inward as possible, and it's threads are right up to the edge of the round opening of the fiberglass.
The illusion of the Door being lower is just due to my poor photography. The angle of the latter shot is different from the first. A straight-on shot is more realistic.
I've got all of the Door Hinge bolts torqued down now, and my confidence I hold in this Door Adjustment Procedure tells me I'd better not touch 'em anymore.
as Alan mentioned the limiting factor is not the fiberglass hole,
the plate with threaded striker hole, floats inside a metal cage,
if your at the end of the cage you cannot move the threaded Hole further inward.
1. option is to shim the front of the door outward, which should kick the read edge in some.
but that will affect your alignment with front fender.
2. option build up the rear quarter to match the door. this is probable your best option.
good luck,
3. Requires major surgery to access the Striker cage, but if you did, .. then you could move it inward.
69Vette,
You're right about the shimming (Option 1). The Door's forward body gap, as far as levelness anyway, is very nice right now.
I'm not that good at bodywork (Option 2).
And this car has had enough surgery already (but mostly because I don't wanna do it ) (Option 3).
Perhaps after a while that new weatherstrip will squish down a bit and improve the fit.
Hopefully.
Since you have the paint removed why are you not considering closing the seams front and back with VPA? I had a similar issue that I did not want to live with. Now's the time to fix it once you have your doors closing properly.
Here, like this:
You get the idea. I never did any of this before, first time.
RVZIO
First, I never knew such a product existed. Thanks.
Is it a glorified Bondo Glass product that applies and finishes in a very similar way?
Second, I'm not good at bodywork.
I'm havin a helluva time getting the beveled edge that outlines the outer Taillight Socket to a consistent, inconspicuous outline. Took it to two local bodyshops to have it professionally done: "We don't repair fiberglass. Too difficult." Both of em! I'll continue trying myself.
to regain your beveled edge around the tail lights, mock up a cardboard template to indicate the correct angle,
take that and make a small wooden fixture, about 1/2" thick.
use that as your sanding block, and sand everything even going around the taillight.
to regain your beveled edge around the tail lights, mock up a cardboard template to indicate the correct angle,
take that and make a small wooden fixture, about 1/2" thick.
use that as your sanding block, and sand everything even going around the taillight.
Thank you Steve for the compliment. I have finally finished everything except
the paint. Cleaned and repaired all gauges, including the clock, and
had speedometer repaired. I get to drive it anytime I want again.
Door Alignment Quandary
) (Option 3).
Both of em! I'll continue trying myself.
