building an engine...part two
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 3
From: San Diego CA
Re: building an engine...part two (SIGNGUY)
judging from these pix, how many of you think that i can easily pull the whole works at one time?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
Re: building an engine...part two (fauxrs)
well...like i said, i can lower the car very easily and i plan on doing so when i actually pull the motor...
but i left it up high because ive been under it and i will have to go under again to do the mounts etc...
but i left it up high because ive been under it and i will have to go under again to do the mounts etc...
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 7
From: Orlando Florida
Re: building an engine...part two (SIGNGUY)
Box up the OEM dist. Get a MSD Pro-Billett dist. a 6AL Box, Give the carb to somebody you don't like :lol: and get a Holley 4150 or even a Street Avenger, may work best for you. Intake: hmmm Since your not realy doing any racing, perhaps a Edelbrock TorqerII. Why, excellent top end for highway cruising, and good power from 2500-5500. The TorqerII WILL fit under your stock hood. A Performer would also work, with good power gains. Buy a good timeing chain such as a torington bearing style that Crane sells. Don't skim on your valvetrain. You can get one at a competitive price from Summit or Jegs. You water pump should be just fine. You can also purchase a H/V impeller to increase cooling, but if you want total reliability with excellent water flow, look into a Stewart stage I or II. Edelbrock also mfg. a great water pump for the street.
later,
Joe
later,
Joe
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 7
From: Orlando Florida
Re: building an engine...part two (SIGNGUY)
Cool pics, you shop looks clean and organized. When I pulled the small block out of my 75, I bolted the rear wheels on the car and lowered the car on to ramps with rear tires on the ramps. Then we bolted the front wheels on, and lowered the car down so the front wheels are on the ground with the rear up on the ramps. The hoist will go at an angle with the front tire. The legs actually straddle the front tire and the engine came right out, more on the front side.
Some hoists have a longer reach, than others. This was the cheap fold up type, but it worked great with the car at that angle. We also put my first 427 bbc in the car the same way, and unfortunaltley when it blew up (wristpin failure) thats how we pulled it back out...
Good luck,
Joe
p.s. Run some desk top dyno combos to help get a better idea of how your combination is going to behave on the street
Some hoists have a longer reach, than others. This was the cheap fold up type, but it worked great with the car at that angle. We also put my first 427 bbc in the car the same way, and unfortunaltley when it blew up (wristpin failure) thats how we pulled it back out...
Good luck,
Joe
p.s. Run some desk top dyno combos to help get a better idea of how your combination is going to behave on the street
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
Re: building an engine...part two (tiresmokin75-427)
thanx joe...im not sure what exactly im going to do with the rebuild yet...
right now i just want to get the motor out of the car...
having the rear higher than the front makes sense...
anybody else?
right now i just want to get the motor out of the car...
having the rear higher than the front makes sense...
anybody else?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
Re: building an engine...part two (SIGNGUY)
well today i went and got the engine hoist and engine stand and brought them to the shop...
i have desided to unbolt the bell housing from the block and pull the engine alone 1st...that should be cake...
then ill go after the trany and bell housing later...im in no hurry for them right now anyway...im just gonna clean em up, rebuild the shifter and add heat sheild...
i was leanin on the fender, lookin at the motor and engine bay and thinkin, as you all know...these engines came thru GM Corporate blue...
ive never been fond of that color...somehow it just dosnt seem right...
call me old fashioned but i feel as tho a Chevy small block should be chevy orange...
im seriously thinking of straying from the ugly (IMHO) GMC blue and goin with the more traditional chevy orange...
heck! it isnt gonna be stock appearing anymore anyway!
i have desided to unbolt the bell housing from the block and pull the engine alone 1st...that should be cake...
then ill go after the trany and bell housing later...im in no hurry for them right now anyway...im just gonna clean em up, rebuild the shifter and add heat sheild...
i was leanin on the fender, lookin at the motor and engine bay and thinkin, as you all know...these engines came thru GM Corporate blue...
ive never been fond of that color...somehow it just dosnt seem right...
call me old fashioned but i feel as tho a Chevy small block should be chevy orange...
im seriously thinking of straying from the ugly (IMHO) GMC blue and goin with the more traditional chevy orange...
heck! it isnt gonna be stock appearing anymore anyway!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: building an engine...part two (SIGNGUY)
I think black is the proper engine color....for high performance use....
supposed to keep the engine cooler....makes no particular sense to me, but that's what I hear....I paint mine black....the block anyway...
GENE
supposed to keep the engine cooler....makes no particular sense to me, but that's what I hear....I paint mine black....the block anyway...
GENE
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Milford NH
Re: building an engine...part two (SIGNGUY)
In regards to the intake, the Victor is not what you want. The power curve is too high. You need a Performer/Performer RPM. I read some where that the Performer RPM only gave up 10-20 Hp to Victor at high RPM. I think the Performer is a tight fit but works. The RPM may be a little more difficult.
Use your current dist., replace with a high performance down the road if you have extra $.
I think you will be happy with the Performer Package. Here is a dyno from Edelbrock's website. 350 w/ 9:1 compression. If you bore your's out 0.030 and bump compression to 10:1, you should be a little better.
The performer package has approx 350 lb-ft of torque through 4,000 RPM and HP climbs strong to 4500 RPM.
Here is the Performer RPM:
[Modified by 69stingray, 12:50 PM 9/14/2002]
Use your current dist., replace with a high performance down the road if you have extra $.
I think you will be happy with the Performer Package. Here is a dyno from Edelbrock's website. 350 w/ 9:1 compression. If you bore your's out 0.030 and bump compression to 10:1, you should be a little better.
The performer package has approx 350 lb-ft of torque through 4,000 RPM and HP climbs strong to 4500 RPM.
Here is the Performer RPM:
[Modified by 69stingray, 12:50 PM 9/14/2002]
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Milford NH
Re: building an engine...part two (SIGNGUY)
Paint the engine any color, YOU LIKE. Don't get hung up on the RIGHT COLOR :smash:
[Modified by 69stingray, 12:55 PM 9/14/2002]
[Modified by 69stingray, 12:56 PM 9/14/2002]
[Modified by 69stingray, 12:55 PM 9/14/2002]
[Modified by 69stingray, 12:56 PM 9/14/2002]
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
Re: building an engine...part two (69stingray)
thanx for the info guys...
i have the motor out now and have continued this conversation here... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=388047
i have the motor out now and have continued this conversation here... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=388047