saunderscx

On further inspection it seems the short is wire to wire....have not located the exact location. In a broader view the wiring in the engine bay is in less than stellar condition. I'm thinking to order a new engine wire harness ($200) and forward lighting harness ($250). That will give me much more peace of mind and add value. As well most of the connectors are in what I'd call poor condition.

It appears to me in looking at the harness photos on Mid America that both have a big master "plug" which mounts on the engine bay side of the firewall where I assume they connect into the back into fuse panel. If correct I can't see the engine side firewall in the fuse panel region as the break booster is directly over that area. It seems they are held in place at the fire wall with 2 screws each....but not sure.

1. Does anyone happen to have any pictures which may help ? < ideally without break booster in the way >

2. Anyone know if both of these harnesses master plugs are "engine bay only" ? < nothing needs to route back into the dash ?? > My hope is that I can avoid tearing into the dash board....as well hopefully no need to route anything thru the firewall ... but that may be wishful thinking.

I read one article that said the best approach is install the new harness as you remove the old so you don't get all your connections messed up.

Any tips or advice is appreciated.

DUB

YES...replacing a wiring harness is not really that hard...it just takes bit of time and patience so you route it as needed.

Make sure you battery is disconnected.

DUB

Kubs

I am traveling for work this week, but I can get you some pictures when I get back home this weekend.

saunderscx

Thanks so much for the guidance & timely update.

I'll definitely look closely at the firewall connectors on the harnesses after they arrive next week.

It seems the tricky / hardest part of this job will be the firewall connection.

I found a sketch in the build manual showing the connector location on the firewall but it showed none of the potential obstacles under the hood. If moving or removing the vacuum tank makes this easier I'm definitely fine to go that route. I want to 'see' what I'm doing especially doing this job for the 1st time.

Ok, If I'm understanding the key point, I should keep a slight outward force on both connectors as the bolt is loosened & wiggle the connectors out a bit every few turns along the way until free. So does the 3/8" bolt come fully out ? Or the connectors will free up while it's still threaded to whatever nut is on the other side ?

Thanks also for explaining the engine/forward lighting connectors are bound together then separated after pulling off the firewall. Important to know.

I've got a knife switch on the battery which is a huge convenience for a job like this. I'll be sure the battery is disconnected while working.

Thanks again.

DUB

YES

Look at your car and follow the forward lamp wiring harness and you might find that you do not have to hassle with the vacuum storage tank. The vacuum storage tank WILL NOT come out from the bottom..and taking it out from the top requires you to remove A LOT of stuff.....SO...try at all costs to work around this if you can. You might 'think' it will make it easier for you...but what you might find is the amount of time to just deal with that...and I am only responding this way is because I HAVE had to deal with this stuff...and if I can work around a hard to deal with part...I will.

I know you can take the bolts out so the vacuum storage tank and move around....but that ALSO can open up a can of worms...due to you 'might' assume that all of the screws are going to cooperate.

ALSO...if it is a 1970 to 1972...you can remove the side fender 'egg crate grille' and that will give you some access also....BUT...that ALSO can not be as simple as some may think...especially when they go to remove the small 10-24 nut on the bottom threaded stud on the grille and have it snap off.

YES the bolt comes out and when you see your wiring harnesses...like I wrote...it will all make sense...because the bolt that is caged...is caged to ONE of your harnesses.

You will find that when you start to remove this bolt....there will be a POINT that you feel it get harder to turn. THAT is the point that you want to pull back on the two harnesses....because this resistance you are feeling is the bolt is trying to pry the harnesses AWAY from the fuse panel area... THEN...when you go and unthread the bolt more...you will feel that it is easy again UNTIL you feel it get harder again... Then pull out on these harnesses AGAIN....repeat this until they come off.

DUB

saunderscx

I wasn't sure you saw my most recent post from Sept 6 (maybe no automated email notice), but my car is fixed. Thanks for all the help and support. Much appreciated !!!

saunderscx

I wasn't sure you saw my most recent post from Sept 6 (maybe no automated email notice), but my car is fixed. Thanks for all the help and support. Much appreciated !!!

Kubs

Sorry I never got those pictures for you! I've barley been in my garage for a few weeks. Im glad you got it sorted out though, nice job! No easy task!