1975 Power Window Help
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1975 Power Window Help
Hello all,
So here's the issue, my driver side power window will go up but not down. I've followed the Willcox guide and here's what I've done so far:
Thoughts?
So here's the issue, my driver side power window will go up but not down. I've followed the Willcox guide and here's what I've done so far:
- I see deflection in the AMP meter when I roll the window up but not down. Passenger side works fine by the way.
- I took the door apart and tested the motor. Motor is fine. If I swap the plug on the motor I can get it go down and not up.
- Then took the center console/parking brake cover off. I tested the wires from the motor to the switch, and they are fine. No breaks.
- Then I took the switch apart, cleaned it, sanded the contacts and put it back together. Same results.
- Then I swapped the passenger and driver switches. Passenger window continues to work fine, driver side is the same.
Thoughts?
Last edited by 1975Coupe; Aug 15, 2016 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Clarification
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
The 'down' power wire running from the passenger compartment to the door is fractured/broken; and that is likely to be inside the rubber boot at the front door jamb. Those wires flex every time the door is opened and closed. It's amazing that most of those wires have lasted as long as they have.
You can disassemble everything, but it is easier to slice the boot open, pull the defective wire out and insert a repair splice, then seal the boot back up. Use a good grade of fine stranded wire for the repair patch. Repair them all, if you feel the need. (With the boot sliced/patched, you can always go back in later if needed.)
You can disassemble everything, but it is easier to slice the boot open, pull the defective wire out and insert a repair splice, then seal the boot back up. Use a good grade of fine stranded wire for the repair patch. Repair them all, if you feel the need. (With the boot sliced/patched, you can always go back in later if needed.)
Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 15, 2016 at 01:55 PM.
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I should clarify I tested the wires from the motor in the door to the switch in the center console. I agree that it sounds like the wire but when I tested it it seems fine. I guess I should just change the wire anyways. Can I pull the whole wire with the new wire attached to it through everything from the door to the switch or will it be an issue?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Humboldt county Ca
Yep. You can pull the wire using the old one. I spliced mine just outside the kick panel, popped the boot out of the socket and used the part of the old wire into the door to pull the new one. Use a wire or straightened coat hanger to fish the new wire around all the window junk in the door.
Be patient. It will work.
Be patient. It will work.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I should clarify I tested the wires from the motor in the door to the switch in the center console. I agree that it sounds like the wire but when I tested it it seems fine. I guess I should just change the wire anyways. Can I pull the whole wire with the new wire attached to it through everything from the door to the switch or will it be an issue?
No amp deflection means no power to the motor.
I took the door apart and tested the motor. Motor is fine. If I swap the plug on the motor I can get it go down and not up.
Say's the same as above,
Then took the center console/parking brake cover off. I tested the wires from the motor to the switch, and they are fine. No breaks.
So you have continuity from the switch to the motor connector, have you checked the electrical motor connector to make sure it's not corroded? Also check the terminals to make sure they have not separated. Pull the plug at the motor and see if it's getting current.. that'll tell you if there is a wire issue or terminal issue.
It almost has to be either a break in the wire or the terminal isn't making good contact with the motor terminal.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Aug 15, 2016 at 09:00 PM.
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So I got wire, connectors, everything ready to swap out the brown cable. I took the door apart and saw that the connector was off for the brown wire. Turns out that a previous owner had removed the plug end on the wire and put just a push on connector. This connector was very loose. I reconnected it and ran the window up and down a few times and the brown wire's connector popped off. So I re-attached it. Crimped it to the connector. Then I zip tied it to the other wire and then zip tied those to the motor. Neither are budging now. Obviously the window works fine now. First dang thing I checked was the issue. Thanks for everyone's help.
