Windshield install
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Windshield install
Hey guys. Felt pretty good yesterday and decided to tackle my leaking windshield. About 90% of the way out. A few questions however. What's the process for prepping the windshield frame? I'm about to cut out the rest of the glass today.
Is it just frame>strip on inside of windshileld> fill exterior with sealent? And what do i use as spacers? I read the new windshields are of different thicknesses and you need to space it out, but no mention of what spacers.
Thanks guys
Is it just frame>strip on inside of windshileld> fill exterior with sealent? And what do i use as spacers? I read the new windshields are of different thicknesses and you need to space it out, but no mention of what spacers.
Thanks guys
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi NS,
Originally there was a firm foam rubber 'damming strip' that ran around the outer edge of the windshield. This is what spaced the glass off the frame and controlled the sealer ooze.
You won't really know what size spacers to use until you dry-fit the new windshield in the windshield frame and install the stainless trim.
The shims are required to space the glass far enough from the windshield frame so that the ss trim is tight against the glass surface.
This is a good bit of extra work but lessens the chance of there being gaps between the glass and trim when you're finished.
Regards,
Alan
Originally there was a firm foam rubber 'damming strip' that ran around the outer edge of the windshield. This is what spaced the glass off the frame and controlled the sealer ooze.
You won't really know what size spacers to use until you dry-fit the new windshield in the windshield frame and install the stainless trim.
The shims are required to space the glass far enough from the windshield frame so that the ss trim is tight against the glass surface.
This is a good bit of extra work but lessens the chance of there being gaps between the glass and trim when you're finished.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Aug 18, 2016 at 03:52 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,705
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From: Orlando FL
Hi NS,
Originally there was a firm foam rubber 'damming strip' that ran around the outer edge of the windshield. This is what spaced the glass off the frame and controlled the sealer ooze.
You won't really know what size spacers to use until you dry-fit the new windshield in the windshield frame and install the stainless trim.
The shims are required to space the glass far enough from the windshield frame so that the ss trim is tight against the glass surface.
This is a good bit of extra work but lessens the chance of there being gaps between the glass and trim when you're finished.
Regards,
Alan
Originally there was a firm foam rubber 'damming strip' that ran around the outer edge of the windshield. This is what spaced the glass off the frame and controlled the sealer ooze.
You won't really know what size spacers to use until you dry-fit the new windshield in the windshield frame and install the stainless trim.
The shims are required to space the glass far enough from the windshield frame so that the ss trim is tight against the glass surface.
This is a good bit of extra work but lessens the chance of there being gaps between the glass and trim when you're finished.
Regards,
Alan
If I remember correctly...I think mine came out to 3/8" thick. I used small rubber blocks that I cut, AFTER fitting via the method Alan described above. That`s on a 71, with the new PGW glass. Yours may be slightly different.
Last edited by oldgto; Aug 18, 2016 at 05:17 PM.
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Thanks Alan and GTO. What should i be using as a spacer? Just rubber blocks? is a damning strip firm enough to retain that 3/8 clearance? Is this something i could order from 3m?
Also. Those channels on the sides/above the windshield. Should i keep those unblocked so water can flow down or do i want to encapsulate them all entirely?
How clean should the prep be? I have it semirough right now with pieces of the old sealer on it still slightly.
Also. Those channels on the sides/above the windshield. Should i keep those unblocked so water can flow down or do i want to encapsulate them all entirely?
How clean should the prep be? I have it semirough right now with pieces of the old sealer on it still slightly.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,705
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From: Orlando FL
I just used some small, firm rubber blocks. After I determined the thickness, I cut them, set them in place, and just ran the sealant over & around them.
As for the frame, we had done new top corners, and patched new metal into a few small holes, then it was all cleaned & primered before the glass was put in.
For the upper channel, it originally was full of a gooey black putty tha we had to dig out & clean up for the metal repair. As a replacement, I went with electrical "Duct Seal"... a gray putty...and I packed the whole channel solid with it. It took about 3 packs of it, at $4 a pack, a cheap but effective alternative.
I`m still building the car, and have not water-tested it yet, but I fully expect that no water will be able to get in there.
As for the frame, we had done new top corners, and patched new metal into a few small holes, then it was all cleaned & primered before the glass was put in.
For the upper channel, it originally was full of a gooey black putty tha we had to dig out & clean up for the metal repair. As a replacement, I went with electrical "Duct Seal"... a gray putty...and I packed the whole channel solid with it. It took about 3 packs of it, at $4 a pack, a cheap but effective alternative.
I`m still building the car, and have not water-tested it yet, but I fully expect that no water will be able to get in there.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 76
Likes: 2
I just used some small, firm rubber blocks. After I determined the thickness, I cut them, set them in place, and just ran the sealant over & around them.
As for the frame, we had done new top corners, and patched new metal into a few small holes, then it was all cleaned & primered before the glass was put in.
For the upper channel, it originally was full of a gooey black putty tha we had to dig out & clean up for the metal repair. As a replacement, I went with electrical "Duct Seal"... a gray putty...and I packed the whole channel solid with it. It took about 3 packs of it, at $4 a pack, a cheap but effective alternative.
I`m still building the car, and have not water-tested it yet, but I fully expect that no water will be able to get in there.
As for the frame, we had done new top corners, and patched new metal into a few small holes, then it was all cleaned & primered before the glass was put in.
For the upper channel, it originally was full of a gooey black putty tha we had to dig out & clean up for the metal repair. As a replacement, I went with electrical "Duct Seal"... a gray putty...and I packed the whole channel solid with it. It took about 3 packs of it, at $4 a pack, a cheap but effective alternative.
I`m still building the car, and have not water-tested it yet, but I fully expect that no water will be able to get in there.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,705
Likes: 983
From: Orlando FL
Last edited by oldgto; Aug 19, 2016 at 05:49 AM.
