When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You mean 'tachs' ? No, there is nothing that should prevent the tach from reading correctly. But, the tachometer could have an internal problem, the drive cable could be worn, or the worm gear in the distributor could be shot.
If the engine just won't rev past 4500 rpm, it is probable that the secondaries in your carburetor are not opening at all...either because the throttle cable/linkage/accel pedal are not allowing the carb to open fully, or because the secondary lock-out tab on the carb is not releasing when the choke is fully open.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 27, 2016 at 05:29 AM.
I'm a new owner of my dream car. Just starting to learn the ins and outs. Is there a limiter on the tax after 4500 rpms.
Maybe you could post some pics of your car and carb?
One item that you can check is to make sure the secondaries are opening as they should.
With the engine off, remove the air cleaner assembly, manually hold the choke open, manually hold open the air valve and have someone push the accelerator all of the way to the floor. Look down into the secondaries and see if they are opening all of the way. If not, adjust the throttle cable as needed.
It is easiest to change the fuel pump by jacking up the right-front and removing that wheel. Access is much better. You also want to burp the engine over to where there is minimal load on the fuel pump actuator arm (actuated by cam lobe). You can get it OFF, ok; but putting it back on with load on the arm is tough.
I've done a ton of dyno testing on the engines that I build, and for every dyno run, we always bring several carbs with us to test on each engine combo. On the dyno, each carb tested is verified to be set up correctly, and air\fuel ratios are all set identically on each carb to produce best power and torque curves. Consistently, and without exception, the Carter AFB carbs (aka, "Edelbrock Performer"), of the same cfm rating, will run at power levels about 10-15 hp below a correctly set up Q-Jet or Holley-type carb. So I never use them on a performance engine - there are better choices.
However, let me say this: There are a lot of very badly set up Q-Jets (including the dreaded Commercially Rebuilt Carbs) out there. The EDL "Performer" carbs are set up to run reasonably well right out of the box. If you don't have a carb for your car, or if your Q-Jet is screwed up beyond all help, the use of a "Performer" is a quick and easy way to get the car running reliably. It won't be optimum, but it will start and run with no issues and no special tuning required. If peak performance is not your agenda, and you just need to get the car running with a modestly-priced new carb, the "Performer" may be a good solution for you.
Very informative, the gentle men I bought the car from said that he just had it rebuilt so now I'm wondering should I try and find someone to go over it. Just for piece of mind
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.