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Big block install in a 70

Old 09-04-2016, 10:46 PM
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Duntov
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Default Big block install in a 70

I'm preparing to install my engine that hasn't been in the car for over 20 years. I wasn't the one that removed the big block, but will be the one putting it back in. What can be on the engine for installation? Can I leave the exhaust manifolds on? How about the power steering and alternator?

I'm not going to have the AC compressor or the brackets on. Not planning on having the trans attached either as will be doing this with jack stands and regular engine hoist. Any special recommendations to support the engine while the trans is installed? The distributor will also be out to avoid the clearance issue with firewall.

This will be the first time installing a big block, and first time putting an engine in a corvette. Trying to plan things out some before the install is attempted, and also learn from others.
Old 09-05-2016, 10:11 AM
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A88FXRS
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much easier to lower trans and engine together. tilt down and in as engine lowers into bay. exhaust can stay but not sure about power steering pump and front cross member fit. alt can go on as well.
Old 09-05-2016, 01:38 PM
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jnb5101
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Is the radiator in or out? 4 speed or auto? If the radiator is installed and it's a 4 speed car, it's tough to drop the engine-trans assembly because the tail will hit the crossmember. It can be done but for a first-timer, make your life easy-attach the trans once the engine is set. The fewer accessories on the engine, the more room you will have.
On the other hand, if the radiator is out the trans-engine assembly can be easily set.
There is no advantage to attaching the manifolds or accessories before the engine drop, as they can easily be attached later.
Unless you have a REALLY long arm on your hoist, the car has to be approached from the side with that side's wheel removed. Also, the jack stand on that side will have to be on the frame extension(as far forward as possible) to clear the hoist's legs. Every time I set an engine, I used bottle jacks under the frame near the door hinges so that the car could be lowered as the engine was swung over the fender(the lower the hoist's arm, the longer the reach) and then the car was raised and stands were set. If you do this, the rear wheels must be on platforms so the car can roll back and forth as the bottle jacks raise and lower.
I worked alone, so I took advantage of all the mechanical help available to me.
Old 09-05-2016, 06:49 PM
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Duntov
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It a 4 sp and the radiator is out but core support is still there. It does have AC so the passenger side exhaust manifold is a PITA to get to from what I can tell. I'm using the harbor freight 2 ton collapsing engine hoist, as it seems pretty much the same as the others out there.
Old 09-05-2016, 07:57 PM
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texas jim
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Just a comment; it's tight enough w/ a sbc, "more power to you guys" turning wrenches on a bbc in that tight engine compartment!!! Love the early C3s!!!
Old 09-05-2016, 09:10 PM
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BBCorv70
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I've had my BB out a few times, also a 70. First time, long ago, I think I reinstalled the engine without the transmission, installed the transmission afterward. Second time the body was off... You may be able to install with the transmission attached to the engine though I think it may be much harder, not being able to drop it in from the front, tougher to move the car if the hoist comes in from the side.
Old 09-11-2016, 11:02 PM
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crf311
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Having the fuel pump off makes it easer.

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