TKO 5 speed??
[Modified by Ryan77, 8:38 PM 9/13/2002]

http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com
for $1795...
You need following mods to install the transmission:
1) shorten driveshaft
2) cut a hole into the tunnel where the TKO shifter comes up and cover the old hole
3) if you want the shifter to come out in the console at the correct location - you will have to weld a spacing bracket onto the shifter... That's approx. $40 at a weld shop.
4) You need a special bracket to mount the transmission to the existing crossmember (available at http://www.700r4.com)
However - it's possible that they don't have any of those brackets left because they stopped producing them...
5) You need a special Yoke ($215) and s special U-joint to connect the Ford yoke with the driveshaft (I can provide part numbers if you are serious about getting a TKO)
That's about it.. It took my mechanic a little bit more than 1 day of work to put the TKO in...
:cheers:
Olivier

:cheers:
Olivier
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...threadid=16145
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/foru...light=richmond
http://home.att.net/~ncarboni/TrannySwap.html
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/Richmond_install.pdf
http://www.corvettefaq.com/tranny.asp
http://www.ecklers.com/dept.asp?dept_id=1876
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gwhite75/
http://www.pro-touring.com/featured_...9_corvette.htm
http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html
http://www.tremectransmissions.com/faq.html
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/
http://www.tremectransmissions.com
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/foru...d&pagenumber=1
http://www.idavette.net/hib/bbfh16.htm
http://www.richmondgear.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...ssion_swap.htm
http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=384952
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=386610
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=378256
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=178016
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=335687
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=182595
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=322704
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=279626
In your case I'd suggest to start by reading this first:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gwhite75/
It's about Tremec T56 swap for C3+ the good thing is that the guy GWHITE75 is a regular here, so I bet he can give you all the information you'll need!

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

:cheers:
Olivier
[Modified by Ryan77, 4:04 PM 9/15/2002]
[Modified by Ryan77, 4:11 PM 9/15/2002]

:cheers:
Olivier
Also, according to Mike, there are only three parts difference between the two transmissions, the shifter, the tailshaft (more splines on the TKO), and the tailshaft bearing.
I ended up with the 3550 and am very happy. My prime reason for going with Fortes is that they were local to me at the time is it was easy to work with them.
The only bit of concern was clearance in the tunnel with the take-apart yoke. By using Energy Suspension engine and tranny mounts, movement is minimal and there is no evidence of hitting after 6000 miles. The shifter mod was the only other big item.
1) New clutch (26 spline). I used the Centerforce Dual Friction.
2) Shifter mod (see above). Then I just had my Hurst handle trimmed down and bolted it to the left side of the stub. A Sawzall and Dremel made short work of enlarging the whole in the tunnel.
3) Shortened driveshaft (don't forget to take the yoke with you to get it all balanced).
4) New transmission mount bracket. The Tremec mount pad is in the same location as that for the 700R4. I used a bracket from Bowtie Overdrives but it has been mentioned that they don't sell it anymore. So some fabrication may be necessary. A point here is that the Energy Suspension mount is taller than stock so a custom bracket would have allowed me to drop the tranny about 1/4" or so to get a little more clearance.
5) Reverse lights and speedo adapters came with the transmission. Give the vendor your tire size and rear end gear ratio and he will send the appropriate gears. Fortes also supplied a plug to replace the stock neutral safety switch. You could that switch for use with a remote control starter setup I guess.
6) If you have a stick shift car, the cross member is welded in. Since the Tremec is longer that a T-10/Muncie, it cannot be installed with the stock crossmember and the engine in the car. The two options are: (1) Make the crossmember removable or (2) install the engine, clutch and tranny all together. I chose option (2). The only downside is that the engine has to come out to change the clutch which is why I went with the Dual Friction to try avoid any clutch problems. If the engine is unbolted from the mounts and moved forward about 2 inches, there should be enough room to install the tranny separately, but that would still require a hoist.
7) Only other thing I can think of is that I did have to trim the catalytic converter heat shield rivetted to the floor pan to get a little more clearance for the yoke. 10 minute job with the Dremel.
The only things I had done by someone else was the modified shifter and driveshaft. I did the whole swap myself in a 1 car garage last winter. Pretty easy project.
Hope this info helps.

:cheers:
Olivier
I used the handle from my Hurst Competition Plus shifter (I have a nice leather **** on it). It had to be trimmed about 2-3" and redrilled to bolt to the shifter on the transmission. Since the lookalike handle is only flat at the bottom then round higher up, I am not sure it would work unless you had it machined. The shifter comes with the transmission.
Here is my cost breakdown for the transmission swap:
Transmission, take-apart yoke, speedo & reverse lights adapters: $2075 (Fortes Part Connection)
Mounting bracket : $87.49 (BowTie Overdrives)
Driveshaft shortned, balanced, new u joints : $123.20 (RI Driveshaft)
Modifying shifter : $46 (local welding shop)
I did the install myself so no $$ there. Since I already had the engine out, there was not much additional time involved. Probably a couple of hours making things fit, rerouting speedo cable, etc. Big time waster was installing, then measuring, then waiting for driveshaft to be done, etc.
The swap could be done in a long (3 day:smash: ) weekend, maybe. Like I said, there was some wait for parts, etc. Plus there is the crossmember issue I mentioned in an earlier post.
Hope this helps.
Steve

:cheers:
Olivier














