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Shorter brake cylinder?

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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 03:16 PM
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Default Shorter brake cylinder?

can you buy a shorter brake cylinder or even thinner at front section?, i have the hydraboost kit, as we can see from pic the air inlet for the procharger, is alittle tight, 78 vette

anyone with some ideas?






Last edited by corvettedave383; Sep 14, 2016 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Some actually prefer manual brakes, doing away with the hydroboost would give a lot of room.
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Some actually prefer manual brakes, doing away with the hydroboost would give a lot of room.



I had a dry sump tank and remote Oil filter -power brakes just wouldn't fit.

W/o was also able to put the clutch Master right next to the brake.

For clearance (not shown in pics) I used some banjo fittings off the Wilwood Master.













However if you HAVE to have it- look at like what they did onthe Sunbeam Tiger- moved it over to the pass side





Or you can go electric-



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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 10:03 PM
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Although it looks tight it also looks like it works just the way it is. I have a Turbocharger and its hot exhaust running right up tight to mine. I have also looked at a shorter master cylinder.
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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Ditch the hydroboost as stated and call up Wilwood......ask them for a master cylinder meeting your mounting specs with a high pedal to pressure ratio......believe me, they have one. Benefit is a better feel for your brakes...and what they are doing.....if you get the right one....assist will not be necessary, you will not miss it.

Jebby
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Gale Banks 80'
Although it looks tight it also looks like it works just the way it is. I have a Turbocharger and its hot exhaust running right up tight to mine. I have also looked at a shorter master cylinder.
hard to get a flexhose in there, to then go to filter for air inlet

ive found you can buy a master cylinder which is 1 inch shorter than stock, alittle more room then
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Ditch the hydroboost as stated and call up Wilwood......ask them for a master cylinder meeting your mounting specs with a high pedal to pressure ratio......believe me, they have one. Benefit is a better feel for your brakes...and what they are doing.....if you get the right one....assist will not be necessary, you will not miss it.

Jebby
thanks everyone for your input, never thought about going back to manual, that sounds like a good idea,

1. less weight
2. more room for procharger etc
3. more feel for autocross etc

only worry is it going to be hardwork to brake when racing?

how good is this manual willwood?
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Ditch the hydroboost as stated and call up Wilwood......ask them for a master cylinder meeting your mounting specs with a high pedal to pressure ratio......believe me, they have one. Benefit is a better feel for your brakes...and what they are doing.....if you get the right one....assist will not be necessary, you will not miss it.

Jebby
do you happen to know the model number?
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 12:21 PM
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Manual brakes just take little getting used to. I run a Vette manual MC on my 64 C10(4 wheel discs) , other than changing the hole on brake pedal it worked perfectly and that's hauling a large heavy trailer. Probably will be dropping the power booster on my current project also.
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard454



I had a dry sump tank and remote Oil filter -power brakes just wouldn't fit.

W/o was also able to put the clutch Master right next to the brake.

For clearance (not shown in pics) I used some banjo fittings off the Wilwood Master.













However if you HAVE to have it- look at like what they did onthe Sunbeam Tiger- moved it over to the pass side





Or you can go electric-




what model wilwood master did you use??
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