1973 corvette
i have 12v at seat belt connection, buzzer, and light. when i connect the seat belt swirch there is no light nor buzzer. i tried it with ignition on and run.

how can i test the buzzer? can i test the pigtail to the seat belt? i have 12v there and i did a simple jump wire with no luck.

is it wired with the ignition buzzer, cuz i have no buzz there

 

The buzzer will only sound with the key in LOCK or OFF. and the door open. See "E" & "F"



Ground the BLACK wire (#4)



Schematic if you need it

http://www.keystonestatecorvetteclub...tte%201973.pdf

 

Omar,
On a 73 the door ajar and ignition buzzer is separate from the seatbelt light and buzzer. The ignition key and door buzzer is up behind the driver's side dash pad. Not easy to get to. The seatbelt warning buzzer is behind the passenger side dash pad and much easier to get to. The seatbelt warning system is also wired through the ebrake light switch. Does your e-brake light work? Comes on when the handle is pulled up. If not this could be part of your problem. The seat belt wiring harness runs along the center console on the right side.
Hope this helps,
Jimmy

 

Many owners have bypassed that buzzer, as it had problems functioning reliably and owners didn't like it. You need to 'chase' down the wiring of that interlock and buzzer to see if it is even hooked up properly.

 

thanks. i found the ebreak wiring harness and everything is hooked up right. the ebreak works. thanks for pointing out the different buzzers. i thought they were the same. passenger side buzzer has no current while driver does, which is key buzzer.

 

i did chase the wiring harness and it is all hooked up. i do need new seat belts also which means i would need the connection on the lap belt. i dont know if that would cost more. i notice that the buzzers are $50 each. im not sure if mine work. do you know how to test em?

to be honest im not sure i want to invest time or money in the alarm/ignition/seat belt buzzer. i notice a lot of post were people bypass this function. im being a bit meticulous on restoring my vette but i think these options are silly/ridiculous. i did make the wiper washer work but i did toss out the fuel evap canister.

 

At the time those cars were new, seat belt laws had just gone into effect and NO ONE wanted to wear them. So, Uncle Sam required the car companies to make it a pain if you didn't buckle up.

Today, there are fewer folks willing to risk their lives for a 'principle-of-the-thing' issue. If I were you...and you always wear your seat belts....I'd just ditch the junk!

 

Hi again Omar,
Glad to see you've been able to track down all the wiring. It really does give you a major headache trying to get everything to work properly. You mention needing new belts, that must mean yours are in pretty bad shape? Are the retractors all rusted? Testing the belts will be difficult if you don't have a functioning buzzer or functioning belt retractor switch. On the 73's the belts function in this manner. Once in the driver's seat and when the key is turned to the start/on position the light and buzzer will come on. If you pull the lap belt up about ten inches or so ( to buckle up) the light and buzzer should go out. On the passenger side, there is a weight control switch that is mounted under the pass. Seat in the springs, so that if weight is applied it sounds the buzzer and the warning light will come on until the lap belt is pulled also about 10 inches or buckled of course. The system is also wired to the e-brake. So, if the ebrake is pulled up/applied it will turn off the light and buzzer too!.

When all this functions properly yes, it does get on your nerves with all the lights and buzzing, but that's how it functioned in 73.

If you are not concerned with originality or having your car NCRS judged then by all means replace your worn belts (to be safe) with new aftermarket belts. There are plenty available from all vendors. BTW no aftermarket belts have the wiring harness in the retractors as the originals do. If you want that, then you'll need to either buy a reconditioned set, or send yours out to be reconditioned/repaired. Expect to pay $$$$ for this process if you decide to do so.
Good luck with whatever choice you make.
Regards,
Jimmy