Browsing past Forum postings for advice on plug/wire replacement, I read varying opinions on PITA levels. I bought the latest L-81 applicable iridium NGKs, Accel wires with separate boots, and an Eastwood telescoping spark plug wrench extension/attachment to help get to #s 1-4. I’m looking to dive in next weekend and would welcome advice on any of the following:

Any advice on what if anything must be removed to facilitate access to the required plugs/routing on my ‘81? For example, some CF responses have mentioned removal of heat shields, exhaust manifolds, starter motors, etc. If the job requires most or all of these, I’ll have to enlist outside help. Any other tips to get it done efficiently will be appreciated.

I don’t own any of the repair manuals and am looking for a clear, correct routing diagram. Are there any electronic image files available out there? If not, any suggestions on ONE repair manual purchase?

A “mechanic” replaced plugs/wires on my car three years ago and opted to circumvent the motor mounts. I would like to do it myself this time, and correctly if possible. I’ve had recurring motor mount breakage - the third go-round the lone culprit was replaced with the lockable variety. Will this type of mount allow the same spark plug wire access as the original type?

I’ve had some oil leakage buildup on and below the engine, and some of these areas are difficult to access. Is there a spray-on product on the market that will dissolve this gunk above and below without damaging the non-metal parts?

While I’m up to my elbows in grease, does it pay to remove my blown a/c compressor (til next spring’s replacement) and the broken smog pump (til my next inspection test)? These suckers are big, in the way and ain’t doin’ nothin’. The smog pump belt was recently removed. With the a/c belt gone as well, would my water pump have enough redundancy to run reliably?

Finally, thanks to the authors of recent postings on removing/painting rear and front window trim and repairing t-roofs. When you’re able to nail the inevitable little sh*! yourself, the inevitable big sh*! is much easier to accept.




[Modified by Runner81, 5:40 AM 9/15/2002]

 

I thought the job was easier with the shielding and starter off. I also had my exhaust off (manifolds were still on and weren't a problem, but the '77 manifolds are different).

It was definitely a plus to be able to work on the car from underneath, so get it up on jack stands or ramps (although the ramps might be in the way themselves).

There are engine degreasers (GUNK is a big name, but other manufacturers have their own variants out too). I'd shoot the engine frome above & below.

I'd also worry about what else the mechanic who "replaced plugs/wires on my car three years ago and opted to circumvent the motor mounts" did while he was in there. You really need to get an '81 diagram of the wires & shielding. It would have been very easy for him to pull that stuff off to get it out of his way and NOT put it back on (hopefully that didn't happen).

I also have gotten into the habit of using dielectric grease on electrical contacts and anti-sieze on parts that I don't want rusting together. So, I used the dielectric on the sparkplug & dist tips and the anti-sieze on the plugs.

Just some thoughts. It took me a long time with a lot of trips under the car & back up, but it's not a horrible job and it sure is nice to have it complete and done right.

Good Luck.

 

It's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be if you're not in a hurry. Took me about 3 hours total this spring. The only tip I have is that you have to go from inside the passenger side wheel well to get to the front plug on that side. Just move the dust skirt out of the way and go for it. I put on black MSD 8.8's to keep it looking original.

 

Did mine about 3 months ago. Just mark the dizzie with tape to make sure you know which one goes where. I also drew a little diagram.. I used some after market plug wire routers which mount off the valve cover and some little plastic spreaders to keep tidy. Didnt take very long at all and I avoided going thru anywhere where I didnt have too. Some areas are easier to access fropm under the car. I used straight in spark plug connectors as I found the angle connectors made it ackwards with the wires running too close to the exhausts for my liking. Take your time- its a nice easy but a little finicky job. :cool:

 

I put mine up on jackstands & did one plug/wire at a time. Took the starter off but didn't have to remove anything else, although loosening off the metal shields on the side of the block made it easier to get the wires through them. It also took me about 3 hours to do & can get fiddly. Dielectric grease on the plug caps is worth doing. Having done mine I'd say the job would've been easier if I'd fitted the leads in the order of 1,3,2,4 & then the others. Routing the front leads can get fiddly with the rear ones already in place (not much in it, but anything to make it slightly less fiddly is a bonus :) ). Beer may help!
For the oil & grease, Gunk is OK but leaves a white residue that needs a lot of water to wash off. I prefer Jizer or Hyperclean as they wash off a lot quicker. Careful where you squirt the water (I wished that I'd cleaned up my block b4 fitting the plug leads!).
My Vette has no air pump & I pulled off the a/c compressor last winter. The water pump works fine.
I got a workshop manual from Ecklers for the '81 ($70?) & it's better than my other 3 Vette manuals put together (especially on the electrics). Somewhere I've got a pic of the plug wire routing, but it's hard to read & after scanning it would probably be useless (but I could try if nobody else comes up with one).
:cheers: