bucharli

have been getting mixed info about this block in my car. i have owned it for 32 years so i would know if i changed it or had it restamped. the question is, if its legit, am i looking for casting #'s for the 3932386 casted block or am i looking for castings that were used on the 3970010 block for the 70 model year? motor build date is V1202HY, car build date was 12-19-69. the casting date is not known at the moment because its in the car and i am 1100 miles from it at the moment. i have someone getting the info for me. just saying if it all lines up. question 2, if it was a service replacement how can i tell, being the 5th owner and having no dealer records? the stamp looks authentic and matches the vin. how can i tell the correct font on the stamping?

Easy Mike

Both blocks were used in 1969 Corvettes for base 300 hp engines and the optional 350 hp. Suffix code HY identifies a 300 hp engine with manual transmission. Engines replaced under warranty were usually stamped CE.

Do you have a copy of The Corvette Black Book? Do you have the NCRS 1968-69 Technical Information and Judging Guide? Both would be a big help for you.

This is a good photo reference:


This is good if you can find a copy. It may be out of print:

bucharli

have the NCRS spec/judge book. like i said i was getting mixed info. i want to make sure im correct before making further investment. and thank you again.

Alan 71

Hi b,
"question 2, if it was a service replacement how can i tell, being the 5th owner and having no dealer records? the stamp looks authentic and matches the vin. how can i tell the correct font on the stamping?"

Service replacement blocks/ engines were stamped with the letters 'CE' on the pad. CE for Chevrolet Engine. The number following the CE will designate the Model Year "9" for 1969 as example. The last five digits specify the service replacement unit sequence number.

The determination of the authenticity of of a stamp pad surface and the characteristics of the stamps are best done by persons with extensive experience looking at a large sample of pads over an extended period of time.

A quote from the 68-69 TIM&JG sums it up pretty well:
"Judges should become familiar with the factory variations in size and fonts used on these stamps, and they should also become familiar with correct broach marks."

Many experienced 68-72 judges have now seen hundreds of stamp pads and many, many examples of pads have been photographed for reference.

Posting a picture of the pad on your engine would get you folk's opinions about the stamps and surface although many of the most experienced judges shy away from giving an opinion of a pad based on just a photograph or two.

So post a picture when you can and see what at least some people think.
Regards,
Alan

bucharli

ive rebuilt this motor 25 years ago. so the broach marks are most likely gone. bored line bored and decked. as i do with all motors i do. stamp pad is clear and uniform. i will work on the picture. have paint on the pad. fighting rust.

Alan 71

Hi b,
Typically once the pad has been decked there's not much left to see.
Remember in Flight Judging the pad and it's stamps are just a small part of the total picture.
The cylinder case's casting number and date are still judged.
Many parts of the engine… intake manifold, exhaust manifold, carburetor, water pump, starter, fuel pump, distributor and more…. are also still judged.
So if these parts stayed with the engine/car then it's not that big a deal.
Are those things still around?
It would be nice to see the stamps on the transmission too. The transmission had it's own assembly information and date as well as the vin derivative of the car it was originally installed in. In fact the SAME stamp that was used to stamp the engine pad at St.Louis was used to stamp the transmission case.
Regards,
Alan

bucharli

the stamp pad is in good shape. i have to rebuild the shifter and the insulation so the trans is coming back out soon. that and the rear are original to the car. distributor is also but no tag. i put a electronic stator in it but have all the original parts. i did it of course! starter is gear reduction so not GM. intake, exhaust and carburetor and side pipe covers were swapped by a mechanic in florida when i had the car painted 20 years ago, of course i cant prove it but i wasnt the first person to make this claim. that guy made a living on screwing people. all i have left to check is the heads. i am starting to get to a point of throwing in the towel and doing it my way. its a driver not a mantle piece. ill drive it everyday if i can.

Alan 71

Hi b,
I agree that you need to take the route that will have you end up with the car that will be what you want and give you pleasure!
Regards,
Alan

bucharli

thanks Alan
it was a little bit of a rant, I do want it to be right, not so much correct. I have to replace what is wrong and make it look the way I like. polished frame, smooth paint and so on. and everything works like it was new.