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I am trying to follow Lars method for checking if my 78's fuel pump check valve is properly functioning....And will try that later today..
My ? is if it fails the test is it possible to just replace the bad check valve without having to replace the whole fuel pump itself????
I have a stock 350/auto trans and nothing else added...
I don't think the check valves are replaceable/repairable. I would replace it with a new Delco fuel pump if it fails the check valve test, they're very inexpensive to purchase.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by mk's78
Good morning CF gurus....
I am trying to follow Lars method for checking if my 78's fuel pump check valve is properly functioning....is it possible to just replace the bad check valve without having to replace the whole fuel pump itself????
Out of curiosity, what's my method for checking the pump...?
No, fuel pumps cannot be rebuilt. Just replace it.
Out of curiosity, what's my method for checking the pump...?
No, fuel pumps cannot be rebuilt. Just replace it.
Lars
Hi Lars.... From your Tech Info Bulletin: " #2 Bad fuel pump----You can check for a leaky checkvalve in your fuel pump by running the engine for a minute and then shutting it off.. Wait about 5 minutes and then loosen the fuel line at the carb. If the checkvalve is good there will fuel pressure at the carb when you disconnect, and gasoline will spray out forcefully when you loosen the line. If gas does not spray out and you only get a dribble of fuel, your check valve is allowing drainback."
FWIW..I did the test and only got a dribble of fuel..other than that the carb/engine seems to run ok...I notice the pedal pumping most when I don't start my vette for a week or more??? Of course It is not a daily driver....
Thanks so much for your input Lars
mk's78 Mike
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by mk's78
Hi Lars.... From your Tech Info Bulletin: " #2 Bad fuel pump----You can check for a leaky checkvalve in your fuel pump by running the engine for a minute and then shutting it off.. Wait about 5 minutes and then loosen the fuel line at the carb. If the checkvalve is good there will fuel pressure at the carb when you disconnect, and gasoline will spray out forcefully when you loosen the line. If gas does not spray out and you only get a dribble of fuel, your check valve is allowing drainback."
FWIW..I did the test and only got a dribble of fuel..other than that the carb/engine seems to run ok...I notice the pedal pumping most when I don't start my vette for a week or more??? Of course It is not a daily driver....
Thanks so much for your input Lars
mk's78 Mike
There is no such paragraph or statement in my paper - sounds like you have downloaded a paper off the Internet that is not in my "real" paper. Don't use any of my papers you find on the Internet - they are often altered, and all are either outdated or obsolete. E-mail me for correct papers.
Lars
Lars,I did that exact test prior to me sending you my 78'carb. I DID NOT get any fuel pressure at the fitting! Your rebuild and rejet of my carb seems to be spot-on. I am a happy camper! Al
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by hdal
Your rebuild and rejet of my carb seems to be spot-on. I am a happy camper! Al
Glad to hear the setup is working well for you! Hopefully it will fix that bad rich-sooting problem you were having and still maintain good response and power.
Lars
Glad to hear the setup is working well for you! Hopefully it will fix that bad rich-sooting problem you were having and still maintain good response and power.
Lars
Hey there Lars I did in fact download it from an email I sent you asking about rebuild/shipping cost/turn around time info and when you replied I immediately downloaded and printed the 8 page Technical Information Bulletin Rev. AC 2-29-15 which I am reading as I respond..
Mike
JFYI: The lead off line states: "My standard propaganda info pasted below-this is a little long, but I try and cover all the bases and questions that have come up over the past 30 years of doing this, so be sure to read it all. Contact me with any questions. Thanks" Which I did when I called you and left you a brief message.....
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by mk's78
Hey there Lars I did in fact download it from an email I sent you asking about rebuild/shipping cost/turn around time info and when you replied I immediately downloaded and printed the 8 page Technical Information Bulletin Rev. AC 2-29-15 which I am reading as I respond..
Mike
JFYI: The lead off line states: "My standard propaganda info pasted below-this is a little long, but I try and cover all the bases and questions that have come up over the past 30 years of doing this, so be sure to read it all. Contact me with any questions. Thanks" Which I did when I called you and left you a brief message.....
Oh... it's in the Shipping Instructions and Services Info. I'm looking all through my Q-Jet Setup Paper with the troubleshooting for the fuel pump, and there's no such procedure in my paper... thanks for the clarification.
Oh... it's in the Shipping Instructions and Services Info. I'm looking all through my Q-Jet Setup Paper with the troubleshooting for the fuel pump, and there's no such procedure in my paper... thanks for the clarification.
Lars
Now at least we are on the same page
1 ? 4 U....I am going to go with a new fuel pump and is it really necessary to go with an OE AC Delco or should I let my Vette specialist make that choice based on local availability??? Although it is not anywhere near NCRS status it is almost completely stock though....
Thanks so much for your patience and help...I'll be making arrangements tomorrow for the new FP
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by mk's78
Now at least we are on the same page
1 ? 4 U....I am going to go with a new fuel pump and is it really necessary to go with an OE AC Delco or should I let my Vette specialist make that choice based on local availability??? Although it is not anywhere near NCRS status it is almost completely stock though....
Thanks so much for your patience and help...I'll be making arrangements tomorrow for the new FP
MK
No, you don't need to stick with the OE Delco. But be aware that some of the other pumps, such as the Holley and Carter pumps, have a slightly large outside diameter, so they will be tighter to the frame rail. Also, the aftermarket non-Delco pumps usually have an NPT outlet, so you cannot directly screw on your stock inverted flare fuel line. This will require modifications to your stock fuel line. Aftermarket pumps also do not have a fuel return line provision, so you can end up with vapor lock issues. For these reasons, I suggest the stock pump.
I just put a new fuel factory style pump after the engine rebuild. The car was fine for a couple of weeks but then it started to be hard to start after setting for a day.
Now it seems like it is get harder to start (longer cranking) the longer it sits.
I have read all of the postings and tring to determine if it is the carb or a bad fuel pump even though the pump is only a couple of months old.
I have also replaced the fuel filter with the one that Lars recommended. Although the one I had in it also had the check valve in the front of it.
Last edited by LenWoodruff; Aug 2, 2017 at 02:27 PM.
Reason: Adding more information.