Adjustable Suspension?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 37
From: Stockton Ca
Adjustable Suspension?
Forum: I tried the search engine but couldn't find the info I wanted.
Most of the forum likes a firmer ride than stock. Some like the 460/330
spring combo w/quality shocks. Others like the 550/360 springs for pushing a little harder.
Those that want to run on a track or speed event need a higher rate.
My question is: How can I have a smooth ride on the streets that I can dial up for going faster? Think of a track day or the Silver State.
I have been thinking about coil over shocks for the front and possibly the VB&P transverse spring in the rear. Both w/double adjust shocks. I would like to be able to drop the front a couple of inches for high speed, and raise it up for the streets.
I am not set up for extensive fabrication, that's why the transverse spring in the rear. I would like to do this right the first time.
Your thoughts please? Where am I going wrong and what would be better?
R
Most of the forum likes a firmer ride than stock. Some like the 460/330
spring combo w/quality shocks. Others like the 550/360 springs for pushing a little harder.
Those that want to run on a track or speed event need a higher rate.
My question is: How can I have a smooth ride on the streets that I can dial up for going faster? Think of a track day or the Silver State.
I have been thinking about coil over shocks for the front and possibly the VB&P transverse spring in the rear. Both w/double adjust shocks. I would like to be able to drop the front a couple of inches for high speed, and raise it up for the streets.
I am not set up for extensive fabrication, that's why the transverse spring in the rear. I would like to do this right the first time.
Your thoughts please? Where am I going wrong and what would be better?
R
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I went to the first years of the silver state open road race and thought i was ready to go for the 150 mph class. It was an eye opener about what i was lacking in the setup and motor. I think what got me was sitting and waiting in line and already they had a death within 15 miles of the start in the unlimited class that was taking off first.
It's not every year,but once it was two. So you have to have adjustability and testing time before you spend on the entry fees.
The only adjustable pieces that I always wanted and never got was the rear trailing arm toe in adjusters and the 4 or 6 link strut rod setups.
As to a rear mono or steel. I've used a 500+ pound since the 90's. So I never knew how a 360 or 420# worked and when i bought a 420# mono the first few laps I was into the fender flares and it cost a bunch to repair them.
When you get up to the "1G+" turns and you have say 1600 pounds on the rear tires the compression in a side load can roll inches determined by the spring rate. Go over a rumble strip where the inside tire is in the air and the 500# spring compresses over 3 inches on the outside tire.
The sway might help. That is why on track days I had 700# front and 1 1/8th front and 520# rear with a 3/4 bar
It's not every year,but once it was two. So you have to have adjustability and testing time before you spend on the entry fees.
The only adjustable pieces that I always wanted and never got was the rear trailing arm toe in adjusters and the 4 or 6 link strut rod setups.
As to a rear mono or steel. I've used a 500+ pound since the 90's. So I never knew how a 360 or 420# worked and when i bought a 420# mono the first few laps I was into the fender flares and it cost a bunch to repair them.
When you get up to the "1G+" turns and you have say 1600 pounds on the rear tires the compression in a side load can roll inches determined by the spring rate. Go over a rumble strip where the inside tire is in the air and the 500# spring compresses over 3 inches on the outside tire.
The sway might help. That is why on track days I had 700# front and 1 1/8th front and 520# rear with a 3/4 bar
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 37
From: Stockton Ca
George: Just avg 130+ will be faster than I have gone for any distance. The strain on the cooling and other systems will be more than usual. I'm sure I will find some weak links as I progress.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
R
Thanks for sharing your experience.
R
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The 130 average class means that you have to drive near 150 mph which is the class maximum when ever you can because of the slow sections.
You need a good navigator with a quality stop watch timing system. 130 mph is 2.4 miles per minute. So to hit right on the 130 average for a 92 mile course you have to drive across the finish line right on 38 minutes and 20 seconds. I came roaring to the line and then nearly stopped to hit my time and not be under and to fast
You need a good navigator with a quality stop watch timing system. 130 mph is 2.4 miles per minute. So to hit right on the 130 average for a 92 mile course you have to drive across the finish line right on 38 minutes and 20 seconds. I came roaring to the line and then nearly stopped to hit my time and not be under and to fast
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The gearing has to be set so that you are just past peak HP rpm at 150 mph. So if peak power is at say 5600 rpm your would want to be taching 5800 rpm at 150. That way you can accelerate to 150 and then back off the throttle and just cruise.
You drive with a gps and watch the mph because along the course they have officials with radar guns and if you go over the class max you are DNF'ed
I bought this safety hoop from summit racing and modded it to my crossmember it was a requirement for NHRA drag racing
You drive with a gps and watch the mph because along the course they have officials with radar guns and if you go over the class max you are DNF'ed
I bought this safety hoop from summit racing and modded it to my crossmember it was a requirement for NHRA drag racing
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Please, do bear in mind that there is no one-size-fits-all setup that best suits each and every car/driver/circuit combination. What might work well for one instance could well prove diabolical in another. Thus, I would urge the OP exercise patience, and plan on spending a good deal of time working towards a suitable setup and state of tune rather than to ever anticipate hitting the bull's-eye straight out of the box. Besides, there's a lot a driver can learn by going methodically thru the process of developing a chassis, as well as one's skill set behind the wheel, rather than attempting to skip straight to the payoff. My $.02
