I plan on putting Edelbrock Performer heads on so, what else do I need to do? Pushrods and roller rockers for sure. Has anyone already done this on yours and which brands did you use? Do I need pushrod guide pates?



[Modified by redwingvette, 12:32 AM 9/16/2002]

 

Here we go again. There is always some who say you need roller rockers and others who don't. Unless you are running spring pressures over 350 pounds you do not need them. You do not need roller rockers. Yes it will reduce some fricton but not enough to really feel. I am running roller tip rockers and my spring pressure is 300 pounds and I spin the motor to 7000 rpm. No valve train problems. I'm sure some will disagree but save your money for other parts. You can tell everyone you have them noone will know.

 

the big advantage to full roller rockers is the reduction in oil temp of 10/20 degrees which will also lower the water temp. :chevy

 

I thought I noticed a gain when I put on my 1.5 roller tips, but maybe it was because I removed my A/C compressor at the same time (abt 60-lbs of dead weight), I'll never know for sure I guess. I figure you could go to 1.6 rockers, and get a bit of a boost that way.....rollers or not. GO WINGS!

 

The Edelbrock heads come with guide plates so that issue is moot unless you are using late model self aligning rockers. If you're using self aligning rockers, the guide plates need to be removed. Edelbrock does recommend +.1 pushrods for their heads so buy accordingly.

 

Jegs advertize "15+ HP just by bolting these on and tossing those heat generating stamped OE pieces"
I don't always believe what I read so what is the truth? Are they worth the extra $100?

 

The original rockers rarely are a true 1.5 rocker. More like 1.46 to 1.48. SO the HP will come from correct 1.5 ratio. Get a good set of roller tip rockers or go with the roller rockers if you want. A set of roller tip or roller rockers will show minimal difference between them. Less friction yes but you will not be turning 6000 rpm all day. It's up to you. I saved the 100 and put it towards other parts. If you are running a roller cam you need them flat tappet not really.

 

But, I gotta tell you, the cool factor of roller rockers is irresistible... :jester

-Pedro

 

they rock :cheers:

 

too!

Anything that reduces friction, and is long term reliable, is good in my book.

 

Yea they are cool but who sees them.

 

Me! And that's all that matters. :)

 

Well, I feel the need to reply to this question: roller tips do just about nothing for you. In fact, most roller tips have a smaller diameter roller than the regular mating surface on a stamped rocker. This means there is more contact pressure at the valve tip, and the parts will wear faster (however, this probably won't be an issue in engines running very few miles per year). Roller tips are most commonly used in aluminum rockers because the aluminum will not last five minutes, it's too soft. The biggest gain is replacing the stock rocker with a full roller rocker that pivots on a roller bearing. This is where the friction reduction happens. If you open up most modern pushrod engines, you will see a stamped arm that pivots on a roller bearing, but does not use a roller tip.

 

Have read mixed reviews on roller tips but most lean towards them being unnecessary since most of the friction happens at the pivot point not the valve tip.

Did I mention I have roller cam and full rollers? :D


[Modified by Fevre, 10:47 AM 9/16/2002]

 

I agree on the roller part of the arm. If roller tips are so bad and put so much pressure on the valve stem why do roller rockers have a roller tip on them also. I'm not saying rollers are bad, they are great. For a mild motor or even a slightly aggresive motor they are overkill. If you have a roller cam no doubt they are needed. Yes they reduce friction and heat but many millions of miles have been put on stamped rockers. I knew this would stir up a few posts, it always does. :)

 

In regards to rollers doing nothing for you. This is not true. Valve guide wear comes from the friction of a nonroller tip rocker. If you ever measured a valve that is to lose, it is because of the rocker arm pulling on the valve as it pushes it down. However, if you are not planning on putting a lot of miles on your car or do not have bronze valve guides, your money may be better spent on somthing else.

 

Ok now I am alittle confused. I just came from the parts store and they tell me to use the Perfomer RPM heads and the only thing different between the Performer and the Performer RPM is the emissions passage in the Performer. being that I don't have a EGR valve anymore I should use the RPM's. They also told me to go with the 64cc heads because they are aluminum, that would put my engine around 10.5 to 1 CR. More than I want to go.
RPM Heads $942
Gaskets $75
Pushrods $45
Roller rockers (They Recommend but I am not sold yet) $190
Intake gaskets $20
Head bolts $50


[Modified by redwingvette, 3:12 AM 9/17/2002]

 

You can get away with 10.5 with aluminum heads. They dissipate head faster than iron and the general rule of thumb is that you can run about a full ratio higher without pinging because of it. (i.e., the aluminums at 10.5 are roughly equivalent to iron at 9.5) You don't really need the heat riser passage with aluminum heads & manifold because they pass heat to the carb plenty fast all by themselves. The engine reaches operating temperature a lot faster.

You need to run hardened pushrods with these heads. They tell you that on their website. What they DON'T tell you is that you also have to run hardened washers under the headbolts. (there's a flyer in the box that tells you all about it...AFTER you've already bought the heads) There's also a chance that the added washer thickness will cause some of your headbolts to be too short so you'll need a new set of THEM too. I ended up buying a packaged set of bolts & washers. (can't remember the name now, but they pretty much make ALL the decent aftermarket bolts) They were almost the same price as the washers alone in another brand. (I think I paid something like $75 for the set)

You also need some anti-seize to put on the exhaust & intake bolts to prevent the inevitable electrolysis that happens when you put two dissimilar metals together. The good news is that you'll shave 50 or 60 pounds off the weight of your car and pick up a noticeable amount of horsepower. I also went with stamped roller-tips because they weren't really that much more than stockers.

 

I agree with everything "soundguy said" I however would use head studs instead of bolts. And don't over torque!!

 

Thanks Guys