So I purchased my 76 L-82 4-speed last week and I had it registered yesterday. Other than a quick test drive, I haven't really driven it much while I waited to register it. Well, yesterday I noticed when I'm in 1st gear, sometimes it goes fine, other times it doesn't go at all and sometimes it shakes, lags and stalls. Seems like it's not getting into gear correctly. I've discovered that with this old car (I've never had an old car like this) shifting needs to be done pretty hard, no leisurely shifting. But even after doing this, I still have the issue of it not seeming to get into 1st very well. I know I'm in the 1st position and I'm pushing it into gear pretty forcefully, but something isn't right.

So, I got under the car today and this is what I discovered....

First, I just started grabbing parts to see if anything seemed abnormal and the first thing I noticed is the rod for 1st and 2nd has a lot of play to it which just seemed to me like it wasn't right.
Then, I saw a cable coming down from the steering column and the end is just hanging above the reverse rod. I can clearly see where it should be attached to the lever.
Finally, where the levers bolt to the transmission, there is fluid there. The same rod that is loose from above, 1st & 2nd, has some play at the bolt and fluid is leaking from there.

Suggestions?? Does it sound like these are the cause of my problems? Seems like easy fixes but not sure.

Thanks for ANY help! I'm a newbie to old cars so the tips are greatly appreciated!!!

 

Is it the stock shifter or a hurst?

 

The cable has nothing to do with the shifting problems. It runs to an rod in the steering column that would only let you start the engine if you were in reverse. Not needed, cable is probably stuck anyway. Make sure the steering cable end is held in the full up position so you don't have future starting problems. I used a large zip tie.

Your shifting forks and the seals on the side of the case are probably the problem. Although the trans may need a total rebuild.

 

Hi Danny,
"Shakes, lags, and stalls"
This certainly sounds like an engine or clutch problem, not a transmission problem.
But since you're thinking it's transmission related I'll make a general suggestion.
Since the car is 'old' and you are 'new' I'm sure you could use some help.
One of the best sources of information for working on an old Corvette is a publication called the Assembly Instruction Manual, (AIM). There's one for each year of production.
This book of drawings and instructions was used on the production line in St.Louis while the cars were being assembled.
There are some pages of drawing and instructions detailing how the shift linkage was installed and how to properly adjust it.
You might be wise to buy the AIM for your car. Many of the larger parts vendors sell them… ZIP Products, Corvette Central, Paragon Reproductions.
Having that would be a big help to you.
It's possible that the transmission is leaking but it's also possible that what you're seeing is caused by an oil link in the engine in which the oil is blowing back on the transmission.
I hope you can have this shifting problem resolved pretty easily so you can begin to enjoy your new car.
Regards,
Alan

Here's an example of the transmission shifter sheet from the 71 AIM.
It gives directions for setting up the shifter mechanism and adjusting the shifter linkage.
Really NO reason to not have the reverse lock-out cable hooked up and functional.

 

Thanks guys!

When I test drove the car, I remember him saying it was a Hurst, but I also think he's full of $*!#. Is there any easy way to identify because I honestly don't know. I don't see any markings that indicate it.

I did actually get the AIM and received it last night in the mail. Definitely helpful with the diagrams. But in this instance, I'm not sure where I should start. I really hope it's not a rebuild needed. I haven't even been able to enjoy it for a day!!

Should I start by tightening down those attachments going to the transmission? That one rod is pretty loose. I could try my luck with the AIM and do an adjustment. I'm lost and really don't want to start taking it to the "guy" until I've exhausted all options. Good thing is I don't "need" the car to drive right now, I just "want" to drive it.

 

Hi Danny,
Here's the original shifter lever.
You have to pull up on the 'T' to shift into reverse.
If the shifter looks different than this and you don't have to pull up to shift into reverse you likely have an aftermarket shifter and likely a Hurst.
Regards,
Alan

 

This is a Hurst with original style handle.

 

you bought a car from a guy you knew was full of S#&T ? that was a smart move, now that you own it a smart move would be to go to the southwest section and find someone in your general area to direct you to someone who can fix your car.

 

Ok, definitely stock shifter. Not a Hurst.

I only say full of $#!t because I think he knew there was something up with the shifter. He did say the shifter is a little sloppy, but when I test drove it and then drove it home, 300 miles by the way, I never had this problem. But I bought it cause I've looked at a few and never saw one this sound as far as engine, body, paint, interior. And until this linkage issue, didn't think there was anything wrong. I'm hoping this isn't going to be major. When she's running she drives and sounds great. It's like something just shifted out of place or something. This is where I'm stuck.

 

Hi Danny,
IF you're going to try to adjust the shifter linkage you MUST have the 'gauge' that's mentioned.
This is used to insure that the shifter mechanism is aligned in order to the do the 3 linkage adjustment described on the sheet.
Playing with an old car isn't always easy, in fact it's rarely easy, but hopefully things with smooth out for you after this is resolved.
Regards,
Alan

 

Thank you Alan! Is that tool available at local stores or do I have to order one?

Does this issue SOUND like something that might just need an adjustment? Could this be the cause of the lagging I get in 1st gear?

 

Hi Danny,
I'll find the picture of the tool and post it. You can make one out of a hard plastic paint scraper.
What you describe doesn't sound like an linkage problem to me. What you describe seems to me to be an engine or clutch problem.
BUT, it's really difficult to make any kind of reliable diagnosis from the information you've given. I'm only trying to answer your specific questions.
Do you KNOW anyone who's familiar with old cars that you could have look at the car with you?
I'll find the tool diagram, hang on.
Regards,
Alan

Here you go! A plastic paint scraper works; you have to trim it to the right size.

 

Your shifter may need to be rebuilt. There are kits at the vendors to do this.
I'd try to tightening whatever is loose first using the alignment tool if you can get it in the slot which is not easy with the shifter installed.
When I rebuilt mine it was out of the car so installing it was easy. I made my own tool out of scrap aluminum I had laying around and when I installed it I tied a piece of sting to the hole so I could pull it out after adjusting the rods. If you go this route I suggest changing the setup to short throw. You'll notice the levers on the trans have two holes, the other set of holes are for short throw. Makes a huge difference.




On the lockout cable. What this does is make so the key cannot be removed from the steering column unless the transmission is in reverse. It's and anti-theft thing. It's not really needed but I just got mine working since the cable was missing all the years I've had my Vette.
This is what the owners manual says about the lockout:
"The manual transmission includes the interlock linkage that is part of the theft deterrent lock system. The interlock linkage prevents shfting of the transmission lever from the REVERSE position when the ignition switch is in the LOCK position.
NOTE: If your car is equipped with a manual transmission, shift into REVERSE before shutting of the engine. This will permit the ignition key to be turned to the LOCK position."

I was scared that the steering column lever of the lockout would slip while driving so I secured it with some safety wire so that it couldn't move. I'd suggest you do that if you choose not to use the interlock cable.
Of course now that mine is working I removed the wire.

 

Thanks for that theandies. I know I need to do this adjustment. I simply tightened the bolts going to the transmission, and now I can't get out of Reverse. So it's definitely out of whack. I just can't believe how little room there is to work with. The previous owner made it a true dual exhaust and the pipe runs directly under the linkage, making it extremely difficult.
One thing I'm wondering about is the bolts that attach to the transmission. The one for the 1st 2nd lever is the one I tightened, but when I grab the rod it still moves at the bolt. Does anybody know how those bolts are attached? There doesn't seem to be a washer or anything between the bolt and the transmission, so I'm wondering what would cause this rod to still wiggle like this. Something is worn out, I just don't know what.

 

Look at this picture and the one Alan posted. You'll see where the shifter levers attach to the transmission levers (not show in this drawing). Is that what is loose?



If you mean the levers that attach to the transmission then yes there should have a lock washer on them. If these are loose it could be those levers or #43, #49 or # 50 (depending if just one or all three are loose when the bolt is tight) worn out or damaged.
If you mean the shifter rods themselves they are available from the vendors.

So the exhaust runs below the cross-member? I'm not sure how a '76 transmission cross-member is setup but there should be two large holes where the exhaust runs through. It should not be below the transmission where you are working. If it does you'll have to get that out of the way because I cannot see any way to get the alignment tool up into the shifter, which is going to be a PITA even with the exhaust out of the way.

If you could snap some pictures or make a short video and posts them that would help us help your a lot more.

EDIT - The trans is in neutral when 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th levers on the trans are pointing up and the reverse lever is positioned as in the photo Alan posted which is where the shifter rod attaches is pointing down. You adjust the shifter rods with the trans in neutral and the shifter tool in the shifter.

 

Ok, thank you guys! This is helping so much. Theandies, the "edit" part you put just made things finally make so much more sense to me as far as the adjustments. I'm going right now to start this process, once I figure out how to make the gage tool.

As far as this loose bolt, on Alan's diagram from the AIM, it's the bolt going into the transmission on lever N. Here's a pic. The right lever, or 1st 2nd. I don't know if I should just keep tightening it? I don't want to strip anything, but right there between the lever and the transmission, the lever wiggles and the others don't. Doesn't seem to be missing a washer or anything.

 

That's different from mine. Your picture shows nuts holding the transmission levers on. Mine are bolts. You might research if Muncie changed the way the levers were installed from '71 to '76. Maybe Bubba installed studs into the transmission because he lost the bolts? I don't know.

I've tried to upload a picture but for some reason it's not taking it.

EDIT:

 

Here is something else you could check. 68 and earlier had the shift shaft with the stud and nut, which you have. It uses a different shift lever from the 69 and later trans that uses a 3/8" bolt. The slot in the 69 is larger than the earlier models and if someone used one on your trans, it could be loose, as they do not have a snug fit.

Just a thought. Good luck, Dave

Sorry, disregard, I now see that you have a Borg-Warner and not a Muncie. Dave

Edit No. 2. According to Hurst all BW trans had and used the same shift levers as the pre 69 Muncies, so if someone did use a 69 or later Muncie lever it could be loose. .

No, my wife would not be very happy with the parts on HER couch or a carb in her sink. Dave

 

Hi,
The Muncie 4-speed transmission was used in production through the 1974 model year I believe.
The use of the Borg Warner 4-speed transmission began in 1975.
It appears the nut on the 3rd/4th lever seems to have tightened against the case but the same number of thread showing on the nut on the 1st/2nd lever hasn't?
Is it stripped under the nut?
Don't know enough about B/W transmissions to post anything intelligent!
Until a few weeks ago I didn't even realize they made Corvettes after 1972!
Sorry!
Regards,
Alan

 

That explains the difference. I noticed after looking at both our pictures that his side cover is different than mine too.

Bolded = Awesome