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I have a 1971 coupe and the radiator is cracked, the car is a driver with a 75 Chevy 350 and a TH400 transmition. I tried to fit a Champion 4 row Aluminum radiator but had problems with the lower hose neck touching the frame and very difficult to attach the lower hose. I chose the 4 row because that is what came out of the car.
The question I have is, has anyone had this issue and what radiator did you end up putting in? I spoke with Champion Radiators in California and they told me that they don't sell a lot of 4 rows for Corvettes, they recommend a 3 row or even a 2 row with 1 inch tubes. The car is non number matching has headers and a light cam so originality is not necessary also the car has never run hot or over heated on me. Please let me know your thoughts, thanks.
Champion 3 row. Save some headaches and some money. (Plus I want to pick up a Champion 3 row soon for my 79 Auto AC and then I can see how yours goes first, lol!)
Three row here. No problems so far been in about a month so any really claim anything. It cools great down here in Louisiana swamp. Only gripe is it wouldn't take much to make it fit stock brackets at little cost on Champions part. They have a sticky on this page about Champion Rad.
I just installed a Dewitt's in my 73 auto a few weeks ago. Had to replace rad support too. I installed the radiator, rad support and shroud as one unit. Best to connect lower hose to radiator before putting it in. Had a bit of a hard time aligning holes for support. If I just had to replace the radiator I assume the Dewitt's would have fit with no issues. Good luck!
The issue I'm having is that the suction side goose neck, lower passenger side of the radiator is made of two pieces welded at a 90 degree angle. this makes the lower goose neck stick out unlike the curved goose neck on my original radiator. Since it sticks out it actually touches the frame where the sway bar attaches, any vibration would rub the frame against the aluminum goose neck and therefore break and leak. I noticed the mark on the lower radiator goose neck when I removed the radiator from the car after the fit test. I'm returning the radiator and looking for a direct fit type.
just installed a 4 row aluminum from e-bay in my 71.lower pass hose is a little tight but very doable. cools great as i was having heat problems. they are a little thinner that the stock 4 row copper brass.only wish they had a drain.
Originally Posted by vett_62
I have a 1971 coupe and the radiator is cracked, the car is a driver with a 75 Chevy 350 and a TH400 transmition. I tried to fit a Champion 4 row Aluminum radiator but had problems with the lower hose neck touching the frame and very difficult to attach the lower hose. I chose the 4 row because that is what came out of the car.
The question I have is, has anyone had this issue and what radiator did you end up putting in? I spoke with Champion Radiators in California and they told me that they don't sell a lot of 4 rows for Corvettes, they recommend a 3 row or even a 2 row with 1 inch tubes. The car is non number matching has headers and a light cam so originality is not necessary also the car has never run hot or over heated on me. Please let me know your thoughts, thanks.
CDW mine the lower goose neck was two pieces of tubbing welded at a 90 degree and it stuck out so much it made contact with the frame where the sway bar attaches. It actually made a mark on the goose neck, too close for comfort. It had a drain **** but could not even use it as it hit the radiator support when you tried to spin it. Just not the quality I was expecting, I know that there are corvettes out there with this manufacturer radiator but I guess they are all not made the same.
sorry to hear the fit problems. that brand has some good reviews. i will have my original brass re-cored later which will cost about 350.00. for now i'll use this aluminum one and see how it goes.good luck
Originally Posted by vett_62
The issue I'm having is that the suction side goose neck, lower passenger side of the radiator is made of two pieces welded at a 90 degree angle. this makes the lower goose neck stick out unlike the curved goose neck on my original radiator. Since it sticks out it actually touches the frame where the sway bar attaches, any vibration would rub the frame against the aluminum goose neck and therefore break and leak. I noticed the mark on the lower radiator goose neck when I removed the radiator from the car after the fit test. I'm returning the radiator and looking for a direct fit type.
After months of procrastination and working on other projects I finally completed my radiator swap. I have to say the Dewitt's went in smoothly actually did it alone, usually my wife lends a hand but she was out with my daughter that day. The only modification I did was to use the old style rubber seals on the top brackets, I bought 4 of the seals for the Dewitt's radiator but when I tried to test fit the top brackets would not line up with the holes on the radiator support. I put in the original style which I had purchased when I started working on the cooling system and that made all the difference in the world.
I taped cardboard over the fins so as not to damage my new radiator and being aluminum it's much lighter so I could handle it easily. The fan shroud actually went in after I dropped in the radiator I lifted the radiator a little bit from the right and the shroud fell in to place. I had removed the fan pulley and belts for clearance, the system was burped and leak tested. Runs great and cool.
Last edited by vett_62; May 3, 2017 at 10:40 PM.
Reason: spelling