When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
On my 1982 Collector Edition, I cannot get the right hatch latch to release all the way so I cannot open the hatch. I have fully moved the right hatch release with a screw driver thinking the cable was misadjusted but still cannot open it. How do I get the hatch open and how do I fix it so it will work correctly? I can only get the glass to pop up maybe a quarter of an inch. The left latch works fine.
On my 1982 Collector Edition, I cannot get the right hatch latch to release all the way so I cannot open the hatch. I have fully moved the right hatch release with a screw driver thinking the cable was misadjusted but still cannot open it. How do I get the hatch open and how do I fix it so it will work correctly? I can only get the glass to pop up maybe a quarter of an inch. The left latch works fine.
The rear hatch hinges were so poorly designed that as the cars age the U portion of the upper hinge opens up. When this happens the glass starts hitting the striker in the striker area deeper and the rear edge of the glass will start to raise away from the car when closed. Normally the end result is the problem you are having either on one side or both.
You can usually tell if the above is true by looking at the oval hole in the plastic where the striker bolt pass's through. Normally you'll see wear from the bolt hitting the plastic.
How to get it open is another subject. Sometimes you can put two glass suction cups on the glass and pull toward the halo of the car and upward at the same time, while someone else operates the release.
Good luck it's not going to be easy and possibly someone else has a better idea.
The rear hatch hinges were so poorly designed that as the cars age the U portion of the upper hinge opens up. When this happens the glass starts hitting the striker in the striker area deeper and the rear edge of the glass will start to raise away from the car when closed. Normally the end result is the problem you are having either on one side or both.
You can usually tell if the above is true by looking at the oval hole in the plastic where the striker bolt pass's through. Normally you'll see wear from the bolt hitting the plastic.
How to get it open is another subject. Sometimes you can put two glass suction cups on the glass and pull toward the halo of the car and upward at the same time, while someone else operates the release.
Good luck it's not going to be easy and possibly someone else has a better idea.
Willcox
Thanks. If I get the hatch open, can the hinges be bent back or are replacement hinges available?
Nope.. You can't bend them back, they will break. And I have a NOS hinge here but can't seem to find it... My though was if I ever do find it or find one that is NOS, I'd set it up to reproduce. They are symmetrical so once the gerber files are produced it can be inverted for the opposite side... I just can't find the one I have or a good one.
There used to be a fella that made repro's but they were pretty pricey.. I looked and I can't seem to find his link.. but search the internet and you may find it.
I know if I ever do find a NOS one I'll make them out of steel instead of alloy.. so they will last. We have access to a CNC Herco so making them is not a problem, finding a good sample is.
I went through the same thing several years ago and bought a set from Steve. I could see I had a problem because the glass would not meet up to the gasket at the halo and there was a gap. The explanation at the time was that the GM hinges aluminum was not dense enough and it stretched. You might find some info at the Collectors Edition Registry. If not then some vendor with access to CNC technology may be able to knock some out of billet if there is a demand. Good luck and be careful. That glass is made of clear unobtanium.