Tough lesson learned about spreader bars!
Mildly related video on frame flex
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rame-flex.html
M
I made my own for my ZZ383 with GM serpentine kit

For those of us without fabrication skills, VB&P used to offer a spreader bar kit with unwelded mounting plates. You simply mocked it up and took them to a shop to be welded. I imagine these could still be found on eBay.
I have NEVER accidentally bought the wrong part!!!

A bunch of stuff is in the way- a dry sump and a few extra cylinders.- so made my own
Used a Panhard bar from Speedway motors and some 2" angle iron-
Think I have about $60 in the set-up and it very easy to remove.
Just so happens they come in 22½" in length-

Cleaned up the angle iron- prettied it up w/ some paint-

Dry sump pump in the way-

pass side-

installed-plenty of clearance over the pump

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
How did you work the length of the bar to order ?
I am guessing it is best to have the longest possible with less thread as close to the Control Arm as possible.
Andy
How did you work the length of the bar to order ?
I am guessing it is best to have the longest possible with less thread as close to the Control Arm as possible.
Andy
I chose an 18" bar, which seemed to be sufficient, as I wasn't sure what my brackets would be like. The Speedway Motors part number is for the 18" bar. the number 910-34158 is the generic bar, then you choose the length. (In my case -18)
I agree that the longer the bar and less thread on the ends would/should be the most rigid.
After I constructed the brackets and installed the bar, I see that perhaps I might have been able to use the 19" bar. However I'm very satisfied with the 18".
A point I would like to make, a friend has a '74 Vette, and he also has a spreader bar (purchased pre made) and he said it made little difference in the feel of the car. This is before I made mine.
When I installed mine I immediately noticed the difference.
When I installed mine I had both front wheels off the ground, jack stands located where the lower "A" arm connects to the front cross member. I installed the bar and hand tightened the bar/joints pressing outward, then secured the nuts.
When I asked my friend how he installed his, he said, just hand tight with wheels on the ground. I explained my procedure, so he tried that. He said that produced a huge difference, much stiffer.
My view is that a "preload" is required to get the maximum result. When jacked up, the shock towers must lean out more than you might think.
Barry
I have been thinking about this addition for a while but to buy a factory bar and pay freight to Australia put it over US$350.00
Going this way of buying the parts from the USA and shipping will be a lot less.
Thanks for your quick reply, will post pictures when completed.
Andy
My biggest challenge is that I have a March front runner system installed and it extends forward quite a bit. So, getting the spreader bar located took some thinking/measuring/etc. It's located quite a bit forward from center due to the limitations with the front runner's pulleys.
My initial plan was to just use angle iron like what I saw in the posting. In fact, I bought some and cut two brackets and drilled them and test attached them in the car. They would probably have worked fine but I changed my mind the bought some 2" x 3/16" flat bar from HD and cut/drilled them out using some brackets from RideTech (RideTech 90000076 Rod End Bracket, [Narrow] Part #: 76890000076) that I ordered along with a 19" bar from Speedway Motors.
Yesterday I took my flat bar and brackets over to my friend's house as he has an industrial welder and all the good stuff to do the job right and had him weld the RideTech brackets to the flat bar. I took them home and painted them up and this morning I installed them in the car.
I initially started with the 19" bar but once it was installed there were no threads showing at all on the hiem joints, so I switched to the 18" bar. Maybe that was a non-issue, but I was thinking that there needed to be some adjustability with this setup? I'm guessing the reason I had less distance was because I changed to the flat bar/brackets vs. angle iron. The distance between the CA's cross shafts was 24.5" with wheels on the ground and the difference between the flat bar and angle iron should only be about 3/8" difference? Regardless, I now have about 3/4" of threads showing on each hiem joint. I believe the threaded area is 1.5" so about half is in the bar. The holes in the brackets and hiem joints are a humongous 5/8" so I had to procure that hardware from HD.
I did install the spreader bar with wheels off the ground. The weather here is in the 20's and snow on the ground so a test drive to check it out may not be until next spring.
Pics attached.
Spreader bar installed.
Drivers side pic
Passenger side pic
Passenger side with flash
Spreader bar passenger side view
Anything non-stock on the front of the motor is going to affect the spreader fit and then we just need to make it work the best we can and that's not always the best it could be. Having it anywhere is still a lot better than not having it at all.
Mine with the BB ended, if I put is as close as possible to the front bolt it just barely cleared the pulleys so UI had to move it up in front of the forward mounting bolt. Not ideal but not a lot of choice unless I change something else
(fwiw, the distance from the frame bracket to bracket where the UCA rods mount should be 26 3/8.
M
Yeah, I'm measuring from the inside of the cross-shaft bolt which are pretty big on the eBay CAs so there's probably another 2 inches there. I'll have to double check and measure it again. I think this car has had some issues in its past with some body work that I'm aware of; drivers side fender and rear panel have been replaced/repaired. So, I wouldn't be surprised if it off some.
My biggest challenge is that I have a March front runner system installed and it extends forward quite a bit. So, getting the spreader bar located took some thinking/measuring/etc. It's located quite a bit forward from center due to the limitations with the front runner's pulleys.
My initial plan was to just use angle iron like what I saw in the posting. In fact, I bought some and cut two brackets and drilled them and test attached them in the car. They would probably have worked fine but I changed my mind the bought some 2" x 3/16" flat bar from HD and cut/drilled them out using some brackets from RideTech (RideTech 90000076 Rod End Bracket, [Narrow] Part #: 76890000076) that I ordered along with a 19" bar from Speedway Motors.
Yesterday I took my flat bar and brackets over to my friend's house as he has an industrial welder and all the good stuff to do the job right and had him weld the RideTech brackets to the flat bar. I took them home and painted them up and this morning I installed them in the car.
I initially started with the 19" bar but once it was installed there were no threads showing at all on the hiem joints, so I switched to the 18" bar. Maybe that was a non-issue, but I was thinking that there needed to be some adjustability with this setup? I'm guessing the reason I had less distance was because I changed to the flat bar/brackets vs. angle iron. The distance between the CA's cross shafts was 24.5" with wheels on the ground and the difference between the flat bar and angle iron should only be about 3/8" difference? Regardless, I now have about 3/4" of threads showing on each hiem joint. I believe the threaded area is 1.5" so about half is in the bar. The holes in the brackets and hiem joints are a humongous 5/8" so I had to procure that hardware from HD.
I did install the spreader bar with wheels off the ground. The weather here is in the 20's and snow on the ground so a test drive to check it out may not be until next spring.
Pics attached.
Spreader bar installed.
Drivers side pic
Passenger side pic
Passenger side with flash
Spreader bar passenger side view
what alumn radiator is that?
did it install like a stock one?
One day.
This was just an easy drive up the street in town
M





















