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Everything was working perfect, ran some errands 2 or 3 stops. As I'm in the garage shutting down key won't turn. It'll go to start and spin the starter and come back to run but no farther.
I pulled the distributor wire to shut it down and battery ground is off now.
Just leaving for a 12 hour shift when I get back where do I start?
At the top with the lock cylinder or at the bottom with the switch. Sounds like a 50/50 proposition which means I'll guess wrong intially :rolleyes:
Give me some input folks I'll check in early in the morning for the bad news :D
Start with a "new" key... NOT a copy of a used one but a new one made from the codes. A good locksmith can do this. I had almost the same trouble a year ago and a new key solved it. $40..
If the shift cable for the wheel lock doesn't return properly the key will not come out.On four speed cars it has to be reverse for the lock to work or bypassed like mine is there is a lever down by the rag joint it controls the key lock it should be up when in park or reverse.
Re: Ignition key stuck in "on" position (74droptop)
Along with the other ideas, here is another cheapie. It's possible that years of gunk could be preventing your lock cylinder from rotating correctly. Spray some WD-40 into the lock cylinder. Work things around. Remember, WD-40 is not a lubricant!!! Now lubricate the lock cylinder with a small amount of synthetic motor oil. See if that helps.
Like 74droptop said: There is a cable that hooks up to the trans and runs up behind the Master cylinder. My cable came off and caused this same problem. If the cable is disconnected/broke you can move the arm up and that should let you turn the key off.
Re: Ignition key stuck in "on" position (redwingvette)
Thanks for the replies, unfourtunatley
Silvervetteman: can't turn cylinder to a point to remove key
Jim Shea: Cylinder moves easily, it feels like something solid is keeping it from rotating to off position. Lock never was "sticky" or "touchy" before like it was worn or gunked up.
Redwingvette: damn, no lock out cable on mine. I did try going in and out of park to see if that would help, but no I'm not that lucky.
I can feel the rod moving from "on" to "start" but even pushing on rod while trying to turn key it's still blocked from going to "off" position. I've got Jim Sheas breakdown printed out so after a little nap I guess I'll go out and pull the steering wheel and associated pieces and see if I can get the cylinder out.
I hope it's that and not the lock plate or sector :eek:
I guess I was lucky because when mine jammed, I was able to wiggle if a few times and it finally came out. There should be an arm on the steering column at the firewall (engine side). The lock out cable is there. You should be able to remove the cable and the move the arm...... IF that's what's jammed.
Re: Ignition key stuck in "on" position (silvervetteman)
Nope GM stopped using the lockout cable on 76's. So no Joy there on a simple fix(my '73 Firebird bit me on that one once). No it feels like something is jammed in the lock cylinder or is keeping the rod from being able to come "up" the column. Geez I've got the rest of today and tommorrow to look at it, what else is there to do :lol: . I've got the pullers and lock plate tools so I have all the "special" tools needed.
Do you have a standard (non-adjustable) or a T&T column? It might be best to pull the column right out of the car so you can diagnose the switch separately from the mechanism in the column head. I am just rewriting all my instructions on tearing down the Corvette columns. I can send you some preliminary instructions if it will help.
BTW, if the cable from you transmission is disconnected and the lever on the column does not get to the full "up" position, you should still be able to turn your engine off. You just won't be able to pull the key out of the lock cylinder.
Re: Ignition key stuck in "on" position (Jim Shea)
I had this problem on a 69 camaro , it was a small plastic gear in the locking mech , to fix I had to pull the steering wheel and replacing the ignition switch
Thanks Jim, just recieved your updated tech papers. It's a T&T column and there is no lockout arm on the column under the brake booster. But the lock release arm near the lock itself feels like its stuck.
Do I need to take the flange for the flex coupling off the shaft to get it thru the firewall to pull the column out of the car?