Okay I'm finally able to access my web site - for some reason I couldnt all weekend - and I can now post a few images from the teardown of the car.

These are good size images so dial up users beware.

The first shot is the car up in the air and ready to begin - well actually I had already begun - as evidenced by the driveshaft laying on the floor. I dont know why the focus is off :confused:

You will notice I'm using 6 jackstands - the front two are there primarily to prevent all that cantilevered load on the frame - they are placed under the a-arms and carry only a very small portion of the load. You can also see my H-pipe in the foreground - this pipe occurs about 6" beyond the collector flange and goes underneath the transmission - it is very easy to remove and doesnt impede my ground clearance.



This is the working surface of the flywheel - it looks horrid but is smooth to the touch - I dont like the looks of the radial lines around the center section and am planning on replacing this item.

I will accept opinions on this matter - judging from the photo would you replace this item?



The pressure plate looks almost the same as the flywheel as evidenced in this photo. It's difficult to tell in this image but if you look closely at the diaphragm fingers from about 10 oclock to 2 oclock you will notice that they are not touching the ground like the others. This is the area where the problem must be - while in the car it was obvious that the throw-out bearing was not touching all the fingers as it should.



I will start ordering parts tommorrow for this. and am looking forward to comments on the flywheel.



[Modified by fauxrs, 6:25 PM 9/16/2002]

 

Obviously the clutch has been slipping a lot and created heat that ruin the surface of your flywheel. Change the pressure plate and clutch disk and have your flywheel resurfaced. The radial line on the center section are just from the last time it was resurfaced. Don't worry about that.

Stephan

 

I concur. If the flywheel is smooth, resurface. Definately upgrade your pressure plate.

 

I agree with Stephan, have the flywheel resurfaced and replace the pressure plate.

 

Don't forget to change the pilot bushing while your there, if it hasn't been changed recently.

:cheers:
Pat Kunz

 

How many times can one resurface a flywheel, and since I am planning a new motor that will be making significantly more power (hopefully 100hp or more) would it behoove me to upgrade to a new iron or steel flywheel?

Also I have updated my homepage significantly - the engine section specifically - you can get to it through the link in the signature - or bypass the index.html by going here http://earchitect.50megs.com/corvett...ce_and_men.htm


[Modified by fauxrs, 8:58 PM 9/16/2002]

 

Flywheels can be resurfaced many times. I don't know how much but I guess about 10-20 times wouldn't be a problem.

But if you want to upgrade to a lighter flywheel, it's a great idea. IMO, lighter flywheel (15lbs) are way better than the regular ones (35lbs) . I have experience it with an aluminium flywheel (14lbs) and it really work. Less weight to rotate equal faster acceleration. In a small block as you want to built, I say go for it.

Stephan

 

If you can, reaplce the pilot bushing w/ a bearing, they came in diesels.


[Modified by Twinnie, 10:17 AM 9/17/2002]

 

Make sure the flywheel is checked with a runout gauge before it's resurfaced. The person resurfacing it should be able to do this. If they can't, go somewhere else, FAST. Just because it feels smooth and *looks* straight, doesn't mean it actually is. That thing has hot spots all over it, and I wouldn't be surprised if it's slightly warped.

 

Thanks, a roller pilot was in the plans - I've never done a clutch without using one.

Another question. Centerforce makes the following statement in their FAQ "THEREFORE THE FLYWHEEL SHOULD ALWAYS BE PROPERLY RESURFACED OR REPLACED TO ASSURE GOOD CLUTCH PERFORMANCE. RESURFACING MUST BE PERFORMED ON A QUALIFIED FLYWHEEL GRINDING MACHINE. CENTERFORCE DOES NOT RECOMMEND RESURFACING FLYWHEELS ON A LATHE OR A BLANCHARD GRINDER"

their caps not mine :D

I dont really know the difference - is this peice of equipment common at machine shops?

 

The proper machine for flywheels contains a large grinding stone. It will create a non-directional swirl pattern. A lathe creates circular ridges around the flywheel. Lathes are not a good way of surfacing a flywheel. The clutch disk works best with a non-directional pattern.

Most machine shops actually don't have a flywheel machine. You have to look around until you find one. I've had the most luck with the independent mom & pop autoparts places.

 

Keep in mind that as you take material off of the flywheel, it effectively moves the cover and T.O. bearing forward, thus changing the geometry of the linkage slightly each time. With vehicles as old as some of ours are, it may have been done a few times and you can run out of adjustment, or the arm over-centers at the bearing, leading to accelerated wear on the ends of the fork and binding (bell housing interference) at the pivot. I generally recommend replacing it if your unsure of the history.

Hans