I've just had the block on my '74 454 rebuilt, new everything, except crank, which was ground and balanced.

What special steps should I take during initial runs to be sure I don't screw anything up?

I know keep the revs and speed fairly low for the first few hundred miles or so, but what about oil changes? Coolant changes, etc. Anything else special? Timing retarded/advanced?

She was bored 30 over, new 30 over pistons, new rings, new cam, new lifters, new con rods, end caps, and lifter springs, valves and seats reground, and new MSD distributor and ignition box. Basically, I've got the block and 3 bolts leftover from when I took it out. Oh, BTW, new Hooker headders and sidemounts.

:confused: :D

Thanks!
David

BTW, for anyone who followed the post, I got the engine back in today, after 2 days of fighting with the motor mounts. found the way finally, :smash: and :cheers: and a few :mad fixed it.

 

The MOST important thing is to set everything up so it starts immediately. You don't want to be grinding away on the starter for several minutes while you screw with things. The only thing you should hear on your first attempt is:

RUUUrrrrrrrRUUUrrrrrrROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOO (if it doesn't catch in 3 cranks, you're a loser...go hire a professional to start your car for you :D:D:D)

First off, don't do an initial startup until the car is ready to drive. You can't do a decent breakin without loading the rings and if you don't have a run-in stand or dyno laying around, the only way to do that is by driving the car.

Prime the oil pump and screen when you install them by packing with white grease.

Adjust the valves very carefully with all sparkplugs out, preferably before you install the intake - this allows you to see the lifter plunger start to move when you hit zero-lash.

Fill the oil-filter by hand and install it.

Fill the engine with oil by pouring it over the valvetrain and lifters/camshaft. (intake off if possible, otherwise...turkey baster thru the drain holes works ok. :))

Spin the engine with all sparkplugs out and your finger in #1 cylinder so you're absolutely sure where TDC is, then install the distributor and static-time it as close as you can. (once you get the hang of it, you should be able to static-time within 2 degrees of what you were shooting for)

Either bypass the heater altogether for initial startup or fill it with coolant and pinch off the hoses until they're clamped down on their respective fittings.

Start filling the assembled engine with coolant thru the thermostat hole BEFORE you install the thermostat & housing so you can minimize the possibility of air being trapped in the block/heads and creating a hotspot. Install stat, housing, & upper hose - then fill radiator just to the top of the fins. Leave some space.

Fill the carb bowls with NEW gasoline (no gasohol, no lawn mower leftovers)

When everything is ready to go, have spare coolant, rags, & fire extinguisher close at hand. I like to use starting fluid for the initial fire-up. (no puddling in manifold- less chance of cylinder washing)

If you've done everything right (prelube, blueprinting, perfect timing, etc) it should catch in just a few revolutions and stay running. Hold it at around 1500 for at least two minutes and have a friend check for leaks and watch the fluid level in the radiator. Then vary the rpms a little at a time...1200 to 1800 for minute, then 1200 to 2000, then 1200 to 2500, etc. (some people disagree with this, but screw 'em...they're wrong! :D) WATCH THE TEMP GAUGE. After about 10 minutes, idle down and set the timing with a light and adjust the carb. Raise the rpms occasionally so it doesn't idle too long. If the cooling system is done 'burping' top it off and cap the radiator. If the valve train is quiet and the engine runs smooth, shut it down. (if it clatters badly or has a valve hanging open, adjust the tappets while it's running first)

Double & triple check all belts, hoses, and bolts that you can reach without burning the crap out of yourself. (QUADRUPLE CHECK for gas line leaks...don't ask how I know ;)) Close the hood, start it back up, and drive for awhile. I like to run it thru the gears gently a few times (up & down...you need pressure in both directions to seat the rings properly) Then a few more times a little harder - up to 3500rpm or so. After about 15-20 minutes of that, it's a matter of opinion. Some people say to baby it for 500 miles. I say, you're done and you should start driving it the way you intend to drive it all the time. (although I do agree that RPMs above 4500 should wait for a week or two...)

I also feel that you should dump the startup oil & filter the same day, then dump the next batch at 500 miles. (it's not that expensive)

FWIW, I was an automotive machinist in a production shop for nearly a decade and near the end I was the guy who diagnosed warranty claims so I know how critical the first few minutes are. Much of the above is probably redundant for most people here, but it never hurts to print this stuff out, tape it to your wndshield, and use it as a 'checklist'.

Good luck.

 

WOW :eek:
Now I´m in fear I could do anything wrong when my time has come to start it again. It was already running for a few minutes to check for fuel leaks.
I´ll print that out :yesnod: