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It's always hard to read a thread like this one. Someone took advantage of another person, took their hard earned money and sold them something they knew would cause problems or end up being useless to the unknowing person buying them. After paying top dollar for a set of used wheels, spending time and money restoring them, and then finding out they may be useless or that additional money is need to maybe make them work. This should be criminal. I learned a hard lesson years ago on something similar and hate to hear when it happens to someone else.
Sorry I stepped up on my soap box.
Good Luck, Greg
It's always hard to read a thread like this one. Someone took advantage of another person, took their hard earned money and sold them something they knew would cause problems or end up being useless to the unknowing person buying them. After paying top dollar for a set of used wheels, spending time and money restoring them, and then finding out they may be useless or that additional money is need to maybe make them work. This should be criminal. I learned a hard lesson years ago on something similar and hate to hear when it happens to someone else.
Sorry I stepped up on my soap box.
Good Luck, Greg
Thanks Greg, I know is not the end of the world but I'm definetely pissed of.
So far november is being quite challenging, only bad news. I got medical invoices for my wife miscarriage (thanks god she's ok), her car decided broke up yesterday the Automatic transmission ($3k repair) and now the fuc... wheels....something that I was very excited with.
I'd like trying to make them run somehow, but if it involves big money, I'll have to give up with them. In case I try to sell them to anybody else I'll make sure they know what they are buying...I don't want anybody else having same kind of surprise.
It's a pitty because I really love them...specially after working on them.
Maybe the seller is among us, he was from Dallas suburbs and had a grey light C3 (74-77), but I lost the contact information, maybe he didn't know about this issue...I don't know.
buy some correct lugs (not crap from Autozone) torque them down (with a torque wrench) and run them, just keep an eye on them and after 50 miles check them with the torque wrench.
One last chance.
Buy one set of lug nuts from the zone and mount a wheel and see if the lug nuts fit tight on the outside of each hole.
I can't tell from the picture but the holes might just be wallered out in the middle.
Yes, install the lug nuts and one washer.
Last edited by Peterbuilt; 11-04-2016 at 04:07 PM.
buy some correct lugs (not crap from Autozone) torque them down (with a torque wrench) and run them, just keep an eye on them and after 50 miles check them with the torque wrench.
If you can drive me to them through a website link I'd much appreciate it.
BTW, when you say lugs do you mean wheel nuts? Sorry I'm not native english speaker and many times I get lost with technical voc.
What should be proper torque spec? No washers then?
.........the correct washers also sit exactly in the round washer cutouts to locate the wheels, properly. the correct washers came with 2 sets, one set drilled right thru the middle.
the other set drilled at an offset, which could be flipped to use on larger or smaller wheel lug Diameter, for various cars.
NO!!!!
The offset inserts, or "slugs" that you are referring to, were primarily used by Keystone, on a couple of their wheels (Klassics and Raiders). HOWEVER, the OP's wheels are NOT that kind of wheel, as the Keystone wheels had a recess for the offset "slugs" to locate in, and then a "mag shank" lug nut, with a flat, mag washer, was used, to retain the wheel to the hub.
The OP's wheels are one of the generic, "multi-fit" wheels, that were popular in the 70s. As already mentioned, the "inner" edge of the slot corresponded to a 4.5" bolt circle, and the "outer" edge of the slot was for a 4.75" bolt circle. Again, a "mag shank" lug nut, with a flat washer, was used to retain the wheel.
In the case of the OP's wheels, it appears that some moron tried to use a tapered seat lug nut......
I like this forum because it gives you all type of information. All good, knowledge and opinion.
If those were my wheels, at this point, reading everything I've read, I would load the wheels and tires up and take them to a tire and wheels specialty shop, one that is recommended by people who own and show street rods and muscle cars, ask them to inspect the wheels and follow their recommendations.
Good Luck, and keep moving forward.
Had real wire spoke rims with this elongated double pattern holes.
I mounted them to my 68 L71 and had a hell of a time to remove them again because they moved rotationally and even started to bend the mounting lugs. As I had to install those with 1/4 " spacers, I manufactured spacers with the correct hub diameter and mounting bolt pattern welded those to the rims. That fixed my issue, rims are hub centered and the bolt pattern is now correct.
You should be able to take one of these wheels to your local tire store and they should have what you need.
Maybe, maybe not. Back in the 60s and 70s, "tire shops" did a lot of aftermarket wheel/tire set-ups. Today, from what I've seen, not so much. It's really a hit or miss deal, in fact, as someone already pointed out, a place like Advance Auto Parts or Autozone might be a better choice, although I'd truly question the quality of the nuts you'd be able to purchase there.
Had real wire spoke rims with this elongated double pattern holes.
I mounted them to my 68 L71 and had a hell of a time to remove them again because they moved rotationally and even started to bend the mounting lugs. As I had to install those with 1/4 " spacers, I manufactured spacers with the correct hub diameter and mounting bolt pattern welded those to the rims. That fixed my issue, rims are hub centered and the bolt pattern is now correct.
Take care using them as is.
Rgds Günther
I already thought on this during my brain storming, the problem is that tires are 245/60/15 therefore I think they would rub on the front.
Originally Posted by Big Block 69
You should be able to take one of these wheels to your local tire store and they should have what you need.
I'd like to meet any shop knowing about the topic in Austin area, because so far all the regular tire shop I visited have no idea, they have never seen these wheels.
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Maybe, maybe not. Back in the 60s and 70s, "tire shops" did a lot of aftermarket wheel/tire set-ups. Today, from what I've seen, not so much. It's really a hit or miss deal, in fact, as someone already pointed out, a place like Advance Auto Parts or Autozone might be a better choice, although I'd truly question the quality of the nuts you'd be able to purchase there.
For the OP, I'd suggest a McGard #61001 lug nut.
I ordered McGard lug nuts yerterday, but they are #69101 which are 7/16-20 with .75 shank.
My main concern are washers, since all the ones I find are 1.06" dim, and mines should be around 0.9 in order to seat inside the previous damage path area.
The center hub issue I think that should be fixed with these hub rings.
I Know that the Hub in the car is 70.3mm and I think that wheels are 83.1mm (I'll double check it)
Had real wire spoke rims with this elongated double pattern holes.
I mounted them to my 68 L71 and had a hell of a time to remove them again because they moved rotationally and even started to bend the mounting lugs. As I had to install those with 1/4 " spacers, I manufactured spacers with the correct hub diameter and mounting bolt pattern welded those to the rims. That fixed my issue, rims are hub centered and the bolt pattern is now correct.
Take care using them as is.
Rgds Günther
BTW, do you remenber the HUB diameter? My understanding after checking mines and internet info about this should be 70.3mm for center rings, ID
...My main concern are washers, since all the ones I find are 1.06" dim, and mine should be around 0.9 in order to seat inside the previous damage path area.
Actually, no. You want the washer to COVER the "damaged" area, and seat on the "flat" area that surrounds these slots. I took a second look at the picture you posted, and IMHO, you might need an even larger diameter washer that what comes with the lugs. You need a SOILD surface for the lugs to seat against.....
Actually, no. You want the washer to COVER the "damaged" area, and seat on the "flat" area that surrounds these slots. I took a second look at the picture you posted, and IMHO, you might need an even larger diameter washer that what comes with the lugs. You need a SOILD surface for the lugs to seat against.....
All right , then I think that's easier to get. Let's see whether the washers work or not.
You could purchase a set of Hub Centric Rings which fit inside of the wheel "hole" and then center the ring on the axle hub. (This will make your wheels hub centric verses lug centric.) Then the lugs will really only need to hold the wheel tight to the hub, not try to center the wheel on the hub as well.
This company in Michigan, sells a variety of ring sizes in plastic and aluminum. They also do custom sets to your measurements. All you need is the measurement of the outside diameter of the hub and the inside diameter of the center hole in the wheels. A set of rings should run between $25 for stock rings to $60 for a custom set.
You could purchase a set of Hub Centric Rings which fit inside of the wheel "hole" and then center the ring on the axle hub. (This will make your wheels hub centric verses lug centric.) Then the lugs will really only need to hold the wheel tight to the hub, not try to center the wheel on the hub as well.
This company in Michigan, sells a variety of ring sizes in plastic and aluminum. They also do custom sets to your measurements. All you need is the measurement of the outside diameter of the hub and the inside diameter of the center hole in the wheels. A set of rings should run between $25 for stock rings to $60 for a custom set.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks Gusto, I ordered on Saturday the ones I posted above. These hub centric rims were alway my first choice, I think is the best one.
Let's how accurate I was with measures, anyhow it's good to know this company just in case I needyhem customized.
You could purchase a set of Hub Centric Rings which fit inside of the wheel "hole" and then center the ring on the axle hub. (This will make your wheels hub centric verses lug centric.) Then the lugs will really only need to hold the wheel tight to the hub, not try to center the wheel on the hub as well.
This company in Michigan, sells a variety of ring sizes in plastic and aluminum. They also do custom sets to your measurements. All you need is the measurement of the outside diameter of the hub and the inside diameter of the center hole in the wheels. A set of rings should run between $25 for stock rings to $60 for a custom set.
Good luck... GUSTO
They would be very helpful, especially with the "vari-fit" wheels.
Well, I'm glad to inform that the wheels are finally running properly, for now only the rear ones but the center ring solution worked.
I had to manually grind a little bit the inner race on the rings because there were slightly smaller (70.3mm) than the rotor hub, I drove the car and everything OK.
I have to say that @leadfoot4 was tottaly right with Mcgard lug nuts...they are absolutely much more better than Autozone ones. Thanks for the advise buddy.
Let's see if the front ones works as well....I hope so.
11-04-2016, 01:22 PM
, then I think that's easier to get. Let's see whether the washers work or not.
