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Old Nov 10, 2016 | 12:20 PM
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Default C3 headers

Is anyone using OBX stainless headers? They look like good quality and flange is 3/8 thick. How do they work for you and what kid of gains over ram horns?
Going with recommendations to go with headers and don't want to break bank and not sure about ceramic ones that will last. Trying to stay $400 range or under.
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Old Nov 10, 2016 | 12:25 PM
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I just put the these 1 3/4 inch XS Power LTH's on my 78 after having them ceramic coated locally for $225....They are extremely well made and fit with minimal mods...

http://xs-power.com/chevrolet-headers-4.htm

Total cost with ceramic coating was $555

Last edited by jb78L-82; Nov 10, 2016 at 12:26 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2016 | 12:33 PM
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They look nice
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Old Nov 10, 2016 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
I just put the these 1 3/4 inch XS Power LTH's on my 78 after having them ceramic coated locally for $225....They are extremely well made and fit with minimal mods...

http://xs-power.com/chevrolet-headers-4.htm

Total cost with ceramic coating was $555
I have these as well. But I got lucky and got them on eBay for $199

Happen to live within 15 miles of Jet Hot, so I had them do the coating for me. The only issue I had with fitment was that I had to put a small dent in none of the tubes to allow for better steering clearance at the arm (not the steering box side). Be sure to check fit before having them coated for just this reason.

I went with ARP studs/nuts to keep them in place. There was maybe one hole on each side that required an ARP bolt due to clearance issues with the tube and the mounting hole. They are bigger tubes being 1 3/4 so that's understandable.

I also have a borgeson conversion for my steering box and they have no clearance issues there.
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Old Nov 10, 2016 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SLVRSHRK
I have these as well. But I got lucky and got them on eBay for $199

Happen to live within 15 miles of Jet Hot, so I had them do the coating for me. The only issue I had with fitment was that I had to put a small dent in none of the tubes to allow for better steering clearance at the arm (not the steering box side). Be sure to check fit before having them coated for just this reason.

I went with ARP studs/nuts to keep them in place. There was maybe one hole on each side that required an ARP bolt due to clearance issues with the tube and the mounting hole. They are bigger tubes being 1 3/4 so that's understandable.

I also have a borgeson conversion for my steering box and they have no clearance issues there.
GREAT PRICE!

I had no issues with any header bolts (I used the bolts that I had with my shorty headers but I have AFR aluminum cylinder heads) or any issues with clearances on the driver's side. I did have to slightly dimple one of the tubes on the passenger side to clear the idler arm. I tested fitted everything BEFORE they went out for ceramic coating locally. These are great deal even at $330 for stainless Steel headers including shipping...........Even at $555 with the ceramic coating these Headers are a steal with the quality of them versus Kooks,American Racing, etc.....

Last edited by jb78L-82; Nov 10, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2016 | 11:07 PM
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I have OBX sidemount headders and sidepipes, they fit very well and I'm very happy with them.if I move up to a big block I will get another set.
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 12:12 AM
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My buddy got some cheap on eBay, surprising quality, no problems yet. I wish they still made small block header sidepipes for $800.
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
GREAT PRICE!

I had no issues with any header bolts (I used the bolts that I had with my shorty headers but I have AFR aluminum cylinder heads) or any issues with clearances on the driver's side. I did have to slightly dimple one of the tubes on the passenger side to clear the idler arm. I tested fitted everything BEFORE they went out for ceramic coating locally. These are great deal even at $330 for stainless Steel headers including shipping...........Even at $555 with the ceramic coating these Headers are a steal with the quality of them versus Kooks,American Racing, etc.....
I would not expect issues with bolts. The issue came up because I went with studs and the stud came out far enough that, while it did not contact the header tube, it was too close to allow me to fit get the washer and nut on the stud.

IDLER ARM (that's where I had the problem as well, but for the life of me I could not remember that name when writing the post)
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 10:47 AM
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I have the OBX as well, no problems with fit, rust or anything else. They've been on for about 3 years now. I used stage 8 header bolts to ensure nothing comes loose. So far, soo good !
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SLVRSHRK
I would not expect issues with bolts. The issue came up because I went with studs and the stud came out far enough that, while it did not contact the header tube, it was too close to allow me to fit get the washer and nut on the stud.

IDLER ARM (that's where I had the problem as well, but for the life of me I could not remember that name when writing the post)
I went with Flowtechs and, they were a little tight by Idler arm.
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 02:08 PM
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I have new OBX SS headers for my 73. Put cheap Summitts on to see how I would like headers at first. Lotsa leaks. Should have waited for the OBXs. Nice straight flanges, look great and quality construction, for a good price. Waiting for a decent day to put em on.
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 05:06 PM
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I've had my eye on a set of Stan's Tri-Y headers but by the time you ceramic coat them, you've spent about $850

Are they worth it?
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