Temperature gauge
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Porters Lake Nova Scotia
Temperature gauge
Hi all,
I had an aftermarket mechanical gauge when I got the car. I ordered the proper temp gauge now, and new sender. However, I don't have the resisters, insulating washers, spades etc. The new paperwork says it needs no resistors, but i dont know if I beleive that. Anyone had experience with AC Delco gauges, or where can I get resistors and hardware for the gauges.
I have the same issue for the fuel gauge.
Thanks
I had an aftermarket mechanical gauge when I got the car. I ordered the proper temp gauge now, and new sender. However, I don't have the resisters, insulating washers, spades etc. The new paperwork says it needs no resistors, but i dont know if I beleive that. Anyone had experience with AC Delco gauges, or where can I get resistors and hardware for the gauges.
I have the same issue for the fuel gauge.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Call the vendor who sold you the new gauge. They should have the other parts necessary, or at least, tell you what you need.
If that vendor can't help you, perhaps Willcox would offer you some guidance.
P.S. If you need the resistor, you can't really install one you could buy at Radio Shack. The original (90 ohm) is some resistance wire (about 20 ohms per inch) wrapped around an insulator strip. That factory style resistor has about a 5 watt capacity and is open to the air so that heat can dissipate. I don't know that they are available anywhere; but Willcox will know their status.
If that vendor can't help you, perhaps Willcox would offer you some guidance.
P.S. If you need the resistor, you can't really install one you could buy at Radio Shack. The original (90 ohm) is some resistance wire (about 20 ohms per inch) wrapped around an insulator strip. That factory style resistor has about a 5 watt capacity and is open to the air so that heat can dissipate. I don't know that they are available anywhere; but Willcox will know their status.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Dec 4, 2016 at 12:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Porters Lake Nova Scotia
I got the gauge from Corvette Central, but they dont show a listing for the attaching hardware. I suppose I could always just put lugs on them and bolt the wires directly to the studs.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Anyway.. the new reproduction gauges have the resistance built inside the gauge so when you purchase this gauge they give you a bridge to install in place of the resistor. You'll still need the insulation washer (s) depending on what year the car is.. 1968-1976 (1) or 1977-1982 (2) and you can make these out of cardboard if you wish too.. all you need to do is insulate the individual studs as outlined below.
So. You don't need a resistor if it's a new gauge and adding one will just distort the gauge reading.
If you need the terminals, or other parts off the back of the gauge I'm sure I have them.
Willcox
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
It appears to me that both gauges in Willcox post have resistors mounted to them. The 'original' photo on the left has a wire-wound resistor under the "bridge"; the bridge is protecting that resistor from having anything metallic coming in contact with it. The gauge on the right appears to have a "printed" resistor on the insulator, and also has some non-conductive material over it (for protection).
Is this not the case?
Is this not the case?
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
You won't... I had the wrong year in my head. The 1977 and newer requires it because of the pcb that attaches... (creates proper spacing).
For you, run the 9 o'clock nut all the way down and for the 3 o'clock stud make sre you have the insulator under the nut.
Willcox
For you, run the 9 o'clock nut all the way down and for the 3 o'clock stud make sre you have the insulator under the nut.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 8, 2016 at 05:29 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...dge-used-68-76
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Porters Lake Nova Scotia
I do not have the terminals either. My plan was to crimp lugs onto the wires and using proper insulating washers bolt the lugs onto the studs. I had to re run wires for the gauge anyway since the PO installed an aftermarket gauge and did away with the wires.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...set-used-68-76
https://willcoxcorvette.com/catalogs...wcc_part_year=
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,713
Likes: 1,371
Purpose of the insulated bridge ?
So, if I understand correctly, the 6->12 insulated bridge is really there to hold the terminals in the proper position?
Just looked at your profile picture.. looks like a 1970-1972 car.. So you'll need the other bridge.. this is what holds your terminals in the correct position and insulate the 6 and 12 studs... If you don't have this I do.
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...dge-used-68-76
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...dge-used-68-76
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
On 1968-1976 cars, the bridge has slots in it to help keep the terminals aligned in the proper position and to insulate them from the housing.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The 9 o'clock stud must ground to the housing. This is the main ground for your center dash cluster and all the other gauges. But without the bridge between the 12 and the 6 your terminals won't have anything to align with. Look at the picture above and you'll see the tang on the terminal down inside the groove in the bridge.
Now if you are bolting direct then I suppose you don't need it.. but you still need the ground stud to make contact with the housing.
Willcox
Now if you are bolting direct then I suppose you don't need it.. but you still need the ground stud to make contact with the housing.
Willcox