ace_cobra

Hi all,
I had an aftermarket mechanical gauge when I got the car. I ordered the proper temp gauge now, and new sender. However, I don't have the resisters, insulating washers, spades etc. The new paperwork says it needs no resistors, but i dont know if I beleive that. Anyone had experience with AC Delco gauges, or where can I get resistors and hardware for the gauges.
I have the same issue for the fuel gauge.
Thanks

'75

I would go with the directions, the new replacement gauges don't use the resistors. Willcox may have the spade connectors and whatever you need, but you will have to contact them.

7T1vette

Call the vendor who sold you the new gauge. They should have the other parts necessary, or at least, tell you what you need.

If that vendor can't help you, perhaps Willcox would offer you some guidance.

P.S. If you need the resistor, you can't really install one you could buy at Radio Shack. The original (90 ohm) is some resistance wire (about 20 ohms per inch) wrapped around an insulator strip. That factory style resistor has about a 5 watt capacity and is open to the air so that heat can dissipate. I don't know that they are available anywhere; but Willcox will know their status.

ace_cobra

I got the gauge from Corvette Central, but they dont show a listing for the attaching hardware. I suppose I could always just put lugs on them and bolt the wires directly to the studs.

7T1vette

Like I said, contact Willcox to see if they can advise you of what you need and, possibly, sell you any pieces that you don't have.

0Willcox Corvette

Anyway.. the new reproduction gauges have the resistance built inside the gauge so when you purchase this gauge they give you a bridge to install in place of the resistor. You'll still need the insulation washer (s) depending on what year the car is.. 1968-1976 (1) or 1977-1982 (2) and you can make these out of cardboard if you wish too.. all you need to do is insulate the individual studs as outlined below.

So. You don't need a resistor if it's a new gauge and adding one will just distort the gauge reading.

If you need the terminals, or other parts off the back of the gauge I'm sure I have them.

Willcox

ace_cobra

They didnt give me a bridge either, could one be made out of a peice of metal. Is it just linking the 9 and 3 studs together?

7T1vette

Not metal. It needs to be insulating material.

ace_cobra

So why does it require a bridge at all?
I must be missing something

7T1vette

It appears to me that both gauges in Willcox post have resistors mounted to them. The 'original' photo on the left has a wire-wound resistor under the "bridge"; the bridge is protecting that resistor from having anything metallic coming in contact with it. The gauge on the right appears to have a "printed" resistor on the insulator, and also has some non-conductive material over it (for protection).

Is this not the case?

0Willcox Corvette

You won't... I had the wrong year in my head. The 1977 and newer requires it because of the pcb that attaches... (creates proper spacing).

For you, run the 9 o'clock nut all the way down and for the 3 o'clock stud make sre you have the insulator under the nut.

Willcox

ace_cobra

And without the bridge I would need to insulate the 12 and 6 stud as well too correct?

0Willcox Corvette

Just looked at your profile picture.. looks like a 1970-1972 car.. So you'll need the other bridge.. this is what holds your terminals in the correct position and insulate the 6 and 12 studs... If you don't have this I do.

https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...dge-used-68-76

ace_cobra

I do not have the terminals either. My plan was to crimp lugs onto the wires and using proper insulating washers bolt the lugs onto the studs. I had to re run wires for the gauge anyway since the PO installed an aftermarket gauge and did away with the wires.

0Willcox Corvette

I have the terminals and the connector if you want to do it right.

https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...set-used-68-76

https://willcoxcorvette.com/catalogs...wcc_part_year=

carriljc

So, if I understand correctly, the 6->12 insulated bridge is really there to hold the terminals in the proper position?

ace_cobra

I dont see a safety issue with the bolted on lugs. I may try it this way and if it doesnt work I will invest in some terminals.

0Willcox Corvette

On 1968-1976 cars, the bridge has slots in it to help keep the terminals aligned in the proper position and to insulate them from the housing.

ace_cobra

But with 4 insulating washers(which I have), is there a need for a bridge? Thats my question. Can I just put lugs on the 3 posts and call it a day?

0Willcox Corvette

The 9 o'clock stud must ground to the housing. This is the main ground for your center dash cluster and all the other gauges. But without the bridge between the 12 and the 6 your terminals won't have anything to align with. Look at the picture above and you'll see the tang on the terminal down inside the groove in the bridge.

Now if you are bolting direct then I suppose you don't need it.. but you still need the ground stud to make contact with the housing.

Willcox