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Engine reasembly weekend

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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 12:08 PM
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Gale Banks 80''s Avatar
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Default Engine reasembly weekend

I have been chasing an Oil burning issue for a long time and finally had to bite the bullet and disassemble and re Ring. Really have no idea why the Oil Rings were blowing by I think it might of been a combination of running way to Rich on initial start up and running to much oil in the Pan ever since. One way or another after 1000 miles the Pistons still didn't have any carbon build up on them due to a good coating of Oil. The Machinist who did the original work had retired and took home his best tools and continued to work as a hobby. He would only work when the Temps and Humidity were right and the Parts needed to sit in his shop for 10 days to season before he would touch them. I'm not going to let Him know that I took a Ball Hone and knocked the Glaze off the Bores this time around.


Fresh from the Ball Hone



Piston Rods back in. Had to remove one Stud for each Cylinder to allow Ring Compressor to fit in there.



Crank all looks good. I have decided to replace the bearings anyway.



I have never dealt with a Rev Kit before but by loosening a couple of Studs I was able to pull the Heads down over them.



Heads are back on its time to adjust the Valves. Sounds like Comp Cams wants 1 full turn compressing the Lifter. ( Hyd Roller Cam)
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 04:42 PM
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Check your Comp instructions for hydraulic roller lifters. There is an old page stating lifter pre-load is "one turn of the wrench on the rocker arm adjusting nut past zero lash".
The date on the bottom right corner of the page is 3/22/12.
There is a revision to that page dated 1/24/13 that gives the lifter pre-load at 1/2 turn past zero lash. Or you can check with Comp to be sure.
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 04:53 PM
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Nice build, we do a number of aluminum blocks, mostly BB's however.

Wish I would have caught you sooner, I would have strongly recommended pinning both the main brgs and the cam brgs.

When those alloy blocks get up to operating temps much of the "press-fit" (or "squeeze") on all the components almost disappears. Been doing both procedures for many years now, plus a few add'l.

Also, take into consideration with all the pieces "growing", I might consider more than that 1 full turn on the adjusters. Can't help too much with that dimension on the all-alloy/retro-hyd roller platform, we don't build any based on that setup.

I can say with the solid-roller units we set the valve just enough to get the units fired-up, we actually gain over .020" lash at running temps. Cold setting is down around .005" (nominal).

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. For anyone else interested here's a shot of the pinned main brgs caps from one aluminum block, only need the front 4 done.
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 05:17 PM
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Good suggestion, makes sense

Really wanted to do an aluminum block machinist refused to do it for a street motor, alum. heads solid roller. Too much room for error I suppose.
Epitome of coolness popping the hood and seeing one though. Esp with a belt drive.

If there was an affordable one out there these days probably would try again anyway fair amount of weight reduction

Last edited by cv67; Dec 4, 2016 at 05:18 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Good suggestion, makes sense

Really wanted to do an aluminum block machinist refused to do it for a street motor, alum. heads solid roller. Too much room for error I suppose.
Epitome of coolness popping the hood and seeing one though. Esp with a belt drive.

If there was an affordable one out there these days probably would try again anyway fair amount of weight reduction
Not a single issue with the alloy blocks in "streeter's", been down this road almost forever!

Those caps pictured above are inside a winning street/strip ride, the same block's been in service for a number of years now. Solid-roller platform, 1800 HP, totally legal N.Y. registered street ride. Over 5 years on the same roller lifters with some very high street miles included, not a single issue so far. Gets driven to and raced at 5 tracks during Drag week events every year.

(Add) That photo in my avatar is a Keith-Black unit done many, many years back. A legitimate 427" with a 6-71 BDS, also a "streeter".

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Just this past week we began negotiating putting about 10 or 15 alloy castings on the shelf (probably end up with 10), all BB's of course though. The price goes down substantially with that number, helping to possibly make it more affordable for some.

Last edited by GOSFAST; Dec 4, 2016 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Add info
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 07:10 PM
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More Progress Today !




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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 07:19 PM
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I will definitely be calling Comp cams tomorrow. To adjust the Valves obviously the valve Covers need to come off. To get them off the Turbochargers need to come off. To remove them the Exhaust Manifolds need to come off. To take them off the Motor needs to come out of the Car....
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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I could see pining the Bearings due to growth but probably not in my application. This is predominantly used as a street Car that goes to the Autocross Track. Long straightaways end up being a lot shorter with this motor. I did the Nevada 100 in 1993 with an Iron Block version of this Motor but I can say as of late, The older I get the faster I was...
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 10:28 PM
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Sweet looking engine, man.
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 11:43 PM
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Banks did a lot of work to package all of that cleanly...except as you noted...way too hard to work on. When I was designing mine....ease of pulling plugs and valve covers was critical.

Definitely want to get that valve adjustment right the first time!

What rings were in it? Did you do anything different this time? Got any pics before the hone of the cylinders and pistons?


JIM
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 01:28 AM
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The engine was not assembled by me the first time around so I can't say for sure what rings were in it. However I bought rings from JE piston when I had the pistons made and I don't see why they wouldn't of gone in. I'm putting JE rings back in this go around so they will probably be the same thing.
Yes everything is very tight. Although I bought a Banks Kit in 1987 there were a lot of missing parts as they were heavy into Diesel Trucks. I built the Exhaust Manifolds, and most all of the plumbing. When I modernized this project I got rid of the Blow threw Carb and added Gen 7 FI. I kept throwing belts so I added the Vintage Air front runner. Little did I know but Banks was doing exactly the same thing at the same time and re introduced the Gas Twin Turbo.
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 10:29 AM
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Looking good what type of cam are you running with that

Gary whats "reasonable" for an alloy SB or BB block
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