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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Oil filter consideration with Accusump?
I'm kicking around adding an accusump to the '69 this spring. One thing I'm curious about is any issues with the oil filter element during times when the filter element pressure/flow-direction is reversed, such as pre-oiling prior to startup, or during oil pressure drops during hard cornering. A check valve downstream of the filter (or at the filter) would calm my concerns, but maybe I'm just off base here.
I never even thought about the valve, I've had an accusump on my SBC Jet Boat for near 30 years. I have a dual remote filter mount that has had a variety of spin-ons installed over the years both with and without the valves. Never had a problem, now you've got me wondering. I have always used it as a preluber, I'll be taking it for a spin on an Engine Dyno this winter before doing some upgrades, maybe the dyno folks will have some insight. I'll need to investigate my setup closer, maybe I'll learn something due to your thread. Due to my remote mount maybe it won't matter for me, damn can't remember how I plumbed it anymore and the motor is out sitting in the garage
Last edited by suprspooky; Dec 22, 2016 at 11:00 PM.
I mounted a 1-1/2 quart pump behind the vacuum tank. Very tight fit but it was a straight shot into an adapter between the oil filter and the block. I'll look for a picture!
I have pictures on too many devices, I really need to use the cloud. I thought I had a picture of the accusump mount itself, it was a very tight fit. Found another picture!
I also used the electro-mechanical valve they sell tied into the ignition. At least that wiring was close by!
One more!
These may not tell you all that much. As I remember the mounting was pretty tricky I put together some sort of teflon wedge to mount to the body and then strapped the tank to that.
My primary purpose was for auto crossing, especially hard braking where I could watch my oil pressure just disappear.
I mounted a 1-1/2 quart pump behind the vacuum tank. Very tight fit but it was a straight shot into an adapter between the oil filter and the block. I'll look for a picture!
Yeah, I'd like to find a PF-25 type filter with a built in valve. I don't have much room for a sandwich type valve, and the block already has tapped areas above the filter to make the hose plumbing pretty straightforward.
The valve equipped filters I've seen so far have metric threads. If nothing SAE shows up I may have to see if I can make an adapter nipple with SAE theads that go into the block, but have Metric threads on the bottom that the filter screws onto.
I'm glad you posted this question, I see I've had mine plumbed wrong for 25 years. Mine is an old Moroso unit and I don't recall them recommending a check valve as Canton is showing. I guess I need to add the check valve or use Filters with anti-drain back valving.
Last edited by suprspooky; Dec 29, 2016 at 05:49 PM.
I'm glad you posted this question, I see I've had mine plumbed wrong for 25 years. Mine is an old Moroso unit and I don't recall them recommending a check valve as Canton is showing. I guess I need to add the check valve or use Filters with anti-drain back valving.
If you have a solenoid operated valve tied to your ignition you should be able to see oil pressure immediately, even before you start cranking. That tells you you have the right stuff!
Here are some WIX #'s 51072, 51086, 51060 They are all anti-drain back, the closest to the PF25 is the 51072 (it also has a bypass valve) the 510886 is a little shorter than the PF25. I'll be using the 51060 until I plumb in a check valve.
If you have a solenoid operated valve tied to your ignition you should be able to see oil pressure immediately, even before you start cranking. That tells you you have the right stuff!
Thanks, I have it plumbed correctly, the problem is that without the check valve you push clean oil backwards through the filter. I don't think my Moroso instructions showed the check valve, or because I was 20 something at the time and knew everything I didn't read the instructions
I looked at the current Moroso inst. and they specifically say to use a filter with built in check valve or add an inline check valve, hope that helps (it helped me after 30 years of hit or miss anti-drain back filters due to my ignorance).
this may be my last post on this thread here's a copy/paste from the canto Instrcts. Check Valve #24-280 Can be used in systems with external oil lines to ensure that oil can only flow in one direction; has 1/2" N.P.T. female threads. While the check valve is helpful, it is not absolutely necessary as in most cases the oil will not back feed through the oil pump.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by suprspooky
Here are some WIX #'s 51072, 51086, 51060 They are all anti-drain back, the closest to the PF25 is the 51072 (it also has a bypass valve) the 510886 is a little shorter than the PF25. I'll be using the 51060 until I plumb in a check valve.
Thanks for the info.
I looked at Wix's website, pretty worthless, but Summit had some useful info. There's several Wix filters with anti-drainback valves, but most are for racing and have pretty coarse filters, although the 51060 is listed as a street filter (finer filtering) and has a valve. Also, the AC PF-35 type (#19187301) also has similar fine filtering and a valve. These look like a couple candidates worth investigating further. I don't know yet what the safe reverse pressure levels for these are.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Stuck my head under the car today, and it sure looks like it's going to be fun (but obviously doable from Ignatz's picture) getting the Accusump mounted under the LF fender.
One item of annoyance I noticed is that the threaded port in the block (that will be plumbed to the Accusump) is cast/threaded in a 45* angle pointed downward. A straight fitting and hose (I prefer not to use a 90* fitting there) attached there will interfere with the clutch rod between the Z bar and the clutch fork. (I hope Chevrolet had a damn good reason for casting the oil line port area in this configuration.) Looks like I'll have to modify the clutch rod shape to give me clearance from the oil line during movement of the rod (and possible engine movement/torque during operation).
I see I have a Wix filter on the engine presently, but I don't see any part number on it to see if it's one that's already equipped with an internal valve.
Stuck my head under the car today, and it sure looks like it's going to be fun (but obviously doable from Ignatz's picture) getting the Accusump mounted under the LF fender.
If that's where you put it you'll want to do a better job than I did with the compressed air fitting. What I have is kind of awkward.
Oil filter consideration with Accusump?
here's a copy/paste from the canto Instrcts. 