..or you have an issue at the starter solenoid.
73 stopped cranking
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Quad Cities Illinois
73 stopped cranking
Heyo
So a couple weeks back i went to start my 73. I got one crank out of it for about 3 seconds and backed off. When i went to crank again, nothing. Everything was dead. I thought i had a dead battery but i just bought a new battery about 8 months ago so i was confused. I put it on a charger for a day and tried again. Same thing happened.
So i got around to taking the battery to get tested today. Like i thought, battery is fine. 100 percent with a good charge.
Here's what happens now when i get in it.
1. Put key in and turn to on. I have a custom radio that flips out when it gets power and it comes out like normal.
2. I turn to Start and everything dies. My radio even flips away like i shut off the car.
3. Return the key to On. Radio flips back out like before.
What's this sound like to you guys???
Thanks!
So a couple weeks back i went to start my 73. I got one crank out of it for about 3 seconds and backed off. When i went to crank again, nothing. Everything was dead. I thought i had a dead battery but i just bought a new battery about 8 months ago so i was confused. I put it on a charger for a day and tried again. Same thing happened.
So i got around to taking the battery to get tested today. Like i thought, battery is fine. 100 percent with a good charge.
Here's what happens now when i get in it.
1. Put key in and turn to on. I have a custom radio that flips out when it gets power and it comes out like normal.
2. I turn to Start and everything dies. My radio even flips away like i shut off the car.
3. Return the key to On. Radio flips back out like before.
What's this sound like to you guys???
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
The radio is turning off because it's on the acc circuit, when turned to start all accessories are turned off and only the start and ign circuits are live. Use a test light or multi meter to test for power to the start terminal on the starter to begin with.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 316
Likes: 39
From: Machesney Park IL
Ground the test light, and put the probe on my he purple wire. Have someone turn the key to start. It should light up. If it does not, you need to check at the ignition switch. If it does, you need to recheck the starter. Don't rule anything out just because it is new, or worked before. I don't care if the best corvette mechanic in the world worked on it yesterday, if it does not work today, testing starts at square one.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 205
From: Lewes Delaware
If you have a manual transmission, check the neutral safety switch at the clutch pedal. It may need adjustment or replacement.
I am not sure (as my 73 is a manual), automatic transmission cars may have a safety switch also. Others can chime in on this.
Fran
I am not sure (as my 73 is a manual), automatic transmission cars may have a safety switch also. Others can chime in on this.
Fran
Racer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 314
Likes: 50
From: Woodbury NJ
I had this exact same issue when I first got my 74 that had been sitting for 15 years. (Not that the length of time sitting matters). I know you said battery cables are good, but has the ground been replaced? If not The punch line is: replace the battery to ground cable. Just replace the whole thing, its only about 20" long.ol
what happens is the cable looks fine on the outside. The only detectable issue is that the cable looks thicker or swollen when compared to a new cable. Its corroded on the inside and not completing circuit.
My symptoms were the same. Put in new battery. Dash lights come on. Turn key to start. Chunk! O click, maybe a turn, then nothing. After chasing this for a day with terminals, test ligbt and a bunch of other things, i replaced the ground cable with an off the shelf cable from Advance or Autozone and it solved the problem. (I later upgraded battery cqble and ground to 2/0 welding cable (pronounced two-aught), but thats a topic for another thread.)
hope this helps.
what happens is the cable looks fine on the outside. The only detectable issue is that the cable looks thicker or swollen when compared to a new cable. Its corroded on the inside and not completing circuit.
My symptoms were the same. Put in new battery. Dash lights come on. Turn key to start. Chunk! O click, maybe a turn, then nothing. After chasing this for a day with terminals, test ligbt and a bunch of other things, i replaced the ground cable with an off the shelf cable from Advance or Autozone and it solved the problem. (I later upgraded battery cqble and ground to 2/0 welding cable (pronounced two-aught), but thats a topic for another thread.)
hope this helps.
Last edited by Cool bean; Dec 24, 2016 at 09:04 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,364
Likes: 1,588
From: los altos hills california
An (unlikely) possibility is your motor is hydraulically locked. Happened to me when I filled the tank to the neck and gas expanded into the motor. Happily I figured that out without damaging anything.
As I said, very unlikely but within the realm of possibilities.
_____________
Ed. I did not see that you got a crank out of it. Likely it is something else. Still, worth looking at your oil.
As I said, very unlikely but within the realm of possibilities.
_____________
Ed. I did not see that you got a crank out of it. Likely it is something else. Still, worth looking at your oil.
Last edited by ignatz; Dec 24, 2016 at 01:53 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 139
From: Syracuse NY
Ill bet you 1 internet dollar its your battery cables. Probably at the battery end. My car did this for a while. Would start to crank, got maybe 2 or 3 revolutions and it would just stop. The cranking speed was good, the battery was charged, I couldnt make sense of it. I then put my hand on the positive terminal and gave it a good twist...It was caught in a groove in the lead post on the battery end and was slipping around, but every time I gave it a 'test' it would reconnect. Replace your battery terminals and Im betting everything is fine.
(PS, this is pretty much the same thing Mr Cool Bean has stated above. )
A bad neutral safety switch would not allow the engine to crank over, not even once. Yours is cranking a few times and stopping.
Keep plugging away at your battery cables and connections.
(PS, this is pretty much the same thing Mr Cool Bean has stated above. )
A bad neutral safety switch would not allow the engine to crank over, not even once. Yours is cranking a few times and stopping.
Keep plugging away at your battery cables and connections.
Last edited by Scottd; Dec 24, 2016 at 01:48 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 273
From: Dunedin NZ.
I had a similar problem and in my case it was the ignition switch (the electrical part is located on the top of the steering column under the dash operated by a rod from the key switch). You need to check as suggested by vbgod1.
Last edited by Haggisbash; Dec 24, 2016 at 01:59 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Ground the test light, and put the probe on my he purple wire. Have someone turn the key to start. It should light up. If it does not, you need to check at the ignition switch. If it does, you need to recheck the starter. Don't rule anything out just because it is new, or worked before. I don't care if the best corvette mechanic in the world worked on it yesterday, if it does not work today, testing starts at square one.
I am a Corvette mechanic....and I do not trust 'jack squat' anymore.
Recently had a 1984 that had a coolant temp sensor that was replaced by the owner two weeks ago that went BAD and set a trouble code ...and I had to installed GM/Delco one in because the aftermarket auto part store one failed.
DUB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Boy do I agree with that X 2.
I am a Corvette mechanic....and I do not trust 'jack squat' anymore.
Recently had a 1984 that had a coolant temp sensor that was replaced by the owner two weeks ago that went BAD and set a trouble code ...and I had to installed GM/Delco one in because the aftermarket auto part store one failed.
DUB
I am a Corvette mechanic....and I do not trust 'jack squat' anymore.
Recently had a 1984 that had a coolant temp sensor that was replaced by the owner two weeks ago that went BAD and set a trouble code ...and I had to installed GM/Delco one in because the aftermarket auto part store one failed.
DUB
Lars calls this the 50% hobby. He is correct. Lots of crap out there.
It usually costs me double, but I buy NOS GM whenever I can. Its worth it. The good stuff works and lasts longer.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Quad Cities Illinois
Update!
feel kinda stupid but figured out what it was!
a nut came loose on one of the starter connections. The wire was still on there but barely. Tightened it up and boom. Cranking normally.
sometimes it's the simple things!
thanks everybody!
feel kinda stupid but figured out what it was!
a nut came loose on one of the starter connections. The wire was still on there but barely. Tightened it up and boom. Cranking normally.
sometimes it's the simple things!
thanks everybody!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 822
Likes: 82
From: Columbus OH
Thanks for the update and letting us know the outcome.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
95% of the time, it is. That's been my experience anyway.
And don't feel stupid, because all of us who have almost any time working on these cars, we've been there, done that right with ya.
Glad you found it.
Steve
And don't feel stupid, because all of us who have almost any time working on these cars, we've been there, done that right with ya.
Glad you found it.
Steve