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Brake Light Fuse Keeps Blowing

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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dgheinen
So if I was 95% there before, now I'm back at 0%.

I went out today to see if I could figure out the headlight + right turn signal issue. The ground on that side was not very secure, so I soldered it together and used some heat shrink to fix it.

I went to go test it out, and my fuse was blown. Instant dread. I replaced it, and it instantly blew again. I don't know what to do at this point. I swapped the turn signal and the hazard flasher relays to verify that it was good, and they both work as intended (when in the turn signal relay spot). It seemed like putting in the hazard relay was what fixed it last time. I really just want to drive this car. It has a brand new engine with less than 10 miles on it. Brand new carb with zero miles. Starts up instantly, sounds great, idles perfectly, but I can't drive it because of this brake light issue.

I unplugged the turn signal switch and it didn't blow again. So that's verified.

I removed the green & yellow wires from the turn signal switch, reconnect both sides of the turn signal connector, and it blows again, which is a different result than before. I'm to the point of giving up! It's so frustrating. It doesn't help that I don't fully understand electrical circuits, which just makes the entire situation more confusing to me.

I pulled all of the bulbs in the tail lights, had the turn signal switch fully connected (green & yellow wires in) and the fuse blows. I had a spare brake light switch, so I plugged it in, and it still blows.

I just don't know what to do. I'm about to just take it to a shop, as much as I hate to do that.
Just be patient. You can replace it all cheaper than paying someone. Dealers used to have a "break out box" to check this system.

With what you are telling me, I would get another turn signal switch, (spare is not bad thing), and just plug it in loose without installing it.
Cost you $40, but save hours of time.

Chances are the harness is just knicked /pinched going up the column. This would verify that, and you would have the part on hand. Worse case, you have a spare.

I would find this with a meter, but its hard to do this over the net with words.

The other issue is "bubba". No telling what has been done over the years.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:47 PM
  #22  
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On some models there is a screw that holds the lower column trim piece to the under side of the column. If that screw is too long it could pierce the signal wiring going up the column and ground it.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by '75
On some models there is a screw that holds the lower column trim piece to the under side of the column. If that screw is too long it could pierce the signal wiring going up the column and ground it.
It can be that stupid simple.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:50 PM
  #24  
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PM me if you want my help...that way I can get you my shop phone number and I will be at work tomorrow (Sunday 1/8-17) if you want to try to fix it tomorrow......I can talk you through this if you want my help over the phone.

Hopefully you have 12V test light and a volt meter.

DUB
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
On some models there is a screw that holds the lower column trim piece to the under side of the column. If that screw is too long it could pierce the signal wiring going up the column and ground it.
X2

DUB
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 06:01 PM
  #26  
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The screw that holds this piece to the column.

https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...over-red-77-77
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